Unipolar cell?

[kutuluh]

so i have been checking on the unipolar design, it indeed looks chalenging, but i dont know why it draws my attention very hard, so i have a couple questions, if you guys can help me out with that or maybe refer me to a doc or something to get a better idea of what i have to do, i have been looking at the forum specially paying attention to the posts by bio since he is like the one that as far as I can see has like the best understanding of unipolar cells…well enough of my rambling.
So I already kinda inderstand the basic setup the unipolar build has (attachment), but I don’t know how to calculate the amount of stacks that I should use, with which kind of design?, I see that it is rather important to sandblast the plates, and pasivate them, does this still applies to unipolar cells? And is Weld-on 1802 a good option to isolate the plate holes to reduce current leakeage?
Now I understand that I should produce ½ lpm per 1lt of engine displacement, so my truck is a 4L 6Cyl, which would end up requiring me to produce 2-2.2 lpm?, also I have seen on a post by bio that he was making reference to the problem of drawing too much amps from the alternator, would end up trashing whatever savings we could get, so how true is that?, and how can I calculate what is the max amount of amps that I can draw of my alternator?
When looking at the biobeast I did notice that it has like a positive and negative reservoir, and I still don’t quite grasp that concept.
Also, would a unipolar cell require a ccpwm? If so how good is this schematic?
I have found that I could use an oxy-ace torch flashback arrestor in for the hho line, and that I should buy like acuarium bubble breakers for the bubbler in order to get the most of the moisture off, is there a particular material that the bubble breaker should be made of?
Also in the biobeast, there is like 3 moisture filters, is there like any chance to get more info on that?
I understand that this are hell of a lot of questions and that the mentors kinda agreed on not taking us newbys by hand all the way, but to let us research, and believe me I have been dedicating a lot of time, and while I learn a little bit more I move further, however there is not much info on unipolar cells =S.
Thanks for your time.

Fabian

[kutuluh]

i just saw this http://www.hhoforums.com/attachment....4&d=1304520415 about the reservoirs, os i think that imagge pretty much describes it...i just wander if the reservoirs are polarized somehow? would both reservoirs use the same elyte concentration?

[BioFarmer93]

so i have been checking on the unipolar design, it indeed looks chalenging, but i dont know why it draws my attention very hard, so i have a couple questions, if you guys can help me out with that or maybe refer me to a doc or something to get a better idea of what i have to do, i have been looking at the forum specially paying attention to the posts by bio since he is like the one that as far as I can see has like the best understanding of unipolar cells…well enough of my rambling.
So I already kinda inderstand the basic setup the unipolar build has (attachment), but I don’t know how to calculate the amount of stacks that I should use, with which kind of design?, I see that it is rather important to sandblast the plates, and pasivate them, does this still applies to unipolar cells? And is Weld-on 1802 a good option to isolate the plate holes to reduce current leakeage?
Now I understand that I should produce ½ lpm per 1lt of engine displacement, so my truck is a 4L 6Cyl, which would end up requiring me to produce 2-2.2 lpm?, also I have seen on a post by bio that he was making reference to the problem of drawing too much amps from the alternator, would end up trashing whatever savings we could get, so how true is that?, and how can I calculate what is the max amount of amps that I can draw of my alternator?
When looking at the biobeast I did notice that it has like a positive and negative reservoir, and I still don’t quite grasp that concept.
Also, would a unipolar cell require a ccpwm? If so how good is this schematic?
I have found that I could use an oxy-ace torch flashback arrestor in for the hho line, and that I should buy like acuarium bubble breakers for the bubbler in order to get the most of the moisture off, is there a particular material that the bubble breaker should be made of?
Also in the biobeast, there is like 3 moisture filters, is there like any chance to get more info on that?
I understand that this are hell of a lot of questions and that the mentors kinda agreed on not taking us newbys by hand all the way, but to let us research, and believe me I have been dedicating a lot of time, and while I learn a little bit more I move further, however there is not much info on unipolar cells =S.
Thanks for your time.

Fabian

Fabian,
I didn't see your post until now- sorry. You really don't need a beast style reactor for that size engine. They DO pull a lot of amps and make mucho gas with them, but you need no where near that much. With about 30A dedicated to a bipolar 16 plate separated double stack reactor, you should well be able to make 2.2LPM. Some refer to this style as a hybrid because it uses isolated or perhaps dedicated is a better descriptor- supply and vent holes in the center plastic plastic divider that allow no electrolyte to be shared inside the reactor between the two stacks. There are simple little tricks with volume and gravity that you can do to maintain the electrolyte's electrical isolation outside of the reactor as well.
As to a few of your other questions, they are more vehicle specific- we need year & model & engine type and current alternator size/type to even speculate on answers.