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Thread: HHO Generator Installation

  1. #1
    havocs29 Guest

    HHO Generator Installation

    I just bought a Generator that has 6 plates pulling about 30-40 amps. It is for a diesel so the amps are no big deal. But I am having a hell of a time with my fuses blowing. Now when I say 6 cells I mean I have 4 plates per cell. I take it is positive, neutral, neutral, negative. I am new to this sorry. Anyways the way I have it wired is the positive is connected to positive of battery and negative to negative of battery. Then it goes to an on/off switch then goes to a starter solenoid and the cells are connected to the solenoid. I have even disconnected all the cells except for one and 20 minutes later it will blow the fuse. I thought it maybe got to hot so I hardly used electrolyte, (baking soda) and still same problem. Do I have it wired wrong? Should positive go to different power source other then battery? Should I ground the negative to the frame instead of the battery. Your advise is greatly appreciated. By the way I have tried 40 and 50 amp fuses!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    189
    are you using 10 guage copper wire for your cells? how far apart are the plates? if the battery is not at a full charge the voltage will drop and the amperage will raise. I use a 10/20/40/100 amp battery charger to test with. it has a built in amperage guage and volt meter built in.

  3. #3
    Rob Guest
    I wouldn't connect the fuel cells straight up to the battery then to a switch. The is a vidio on utube of someone who did this & their mother took the car down to the shops & left the cell running for a while. When she came back from shopping & started the car the whole airintake system was full of hho & she blew the whole air intake system to pices.

    You would be better off to conect the cells up to a part of your electrical system that is only active when your iggnition is in the possition just before you turn it to start your car.

    I have conected my one up to the rear demisster in the fuse box. Use a test light to see whitch side the power is running from & to. If it is on the wrong side you will blow the fuse it is connected to when you use whatever it is conected to.

    As far as i know it dosen't mater if the negative is connected to the frame or the battery.

    With the fuses blowing it sounds like they are drawing more amps as the cells get hotter.

    What mixture are you useing for the bicarb to water ratio?

  4. #4
    havocs29 Guest
    I'm using 1 tbls to one gallon of distilled water. I even used a teaspoon to a gallon and still does the same. They are spaced about 1/4 inch from eachother, roughly. They deffinately aren't touching. And I use 10 gauge wire. The battery is at full charge and there are two batteries for the elctrical system.

  5. #5
    dennis13030 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by havocs29 View Post
    I'm using 1 tbls to one gallon of distilled water. I even used a teaspoon to a gallon and still does the same. They are spaced about 1/4 inch from eachother, roughly. They deffinately aren't touching. And I use 10 gauge wire. The battery is at full charge and there are two batteries for the elctrical system.
    Try this....flush the tank and remove all of the baking soda. Then refill the tank with tap water. Power it up and check the Amps then. The Amps and temperature should go down. If you need less amps still, only use distilled water.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    713
    10 gauge wire is way to small for 40 amps. Your going to melt the wires down. If the fuse is blowing, then your pulling to many amps, or the wire is getting hot causing the fuse to blow. When the electrolye solution heats up, then the current will increase.
    2006 Ram, 5.9 cummins HO. 4 cell design, 1.5 LPM@30amp, 24.3 MPG

  7. #7
    havocs29 Guest
    For one, I don't understand why it is even drawing that many amps in the first place. I hardly use any elecrolyte. And what wire do you suggest? 8 guage? Should I use a 6 circuit fuse block and put 2 cells per circuit? Whould that help?

  8. #8
    dennis13030 Guest
    You might be getting a dead short between anode and cathode. Take an ohm meter, remove power from the unit and measure the resistance between anode and cathode. If the resistance is less than 20 ohms you most likely and a short(accidental connection between anode and cathode).

  9. #9
    timetowinarace Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by havocs29 View Post
    I just bought a Generator that has 6 plates pulling about 30-40 amps. It is for a diesel so the amps are no big deal. But I am having a hell of a time with my fuses blowing. Now when I say 6 cells I mean I have 4 plates per cell. I take it is positive, neutral, neutral, negative. I am new to this sorry. Anyways the way I have it wired is the positive is connected to positive of battery and negative to negative of battery. Then it goes to an on/off switch then goes to a starter solenoid and the cells are connected to the solenoid. I have even disconnected all the cells except for one and 20 minutes later it will blow the fuse. I thought it maybe got to hot so I hardly used electrolyte, (baking soda) and still same problem. Do I have it wired wrong? Should positive go to different power source other then battery? Should I ground the negative to the frame instead of the battery. Your advise is greatly appreciated. By the way I have tried 40 and 50 amp fuses!
    What do you mean by being connected to the starter solenoid? That doesn't sound right. The only time any power should go through the starter solenoid is when the engine cranks over to start it. And then upwards of 100amps or more will go to the starter. I don't see how a relay off the starter solenoid could even work?

  10. #10
    Bigtoyota Guest
    He is not using the starter solenoid for his truck. He is using a separate starter solenoid in the place of a 40 amp relay to control his generator.

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