I installed my electrolyzer outside of the engine compartment to reduce heat. And my bubbler is around 3feet above the electrolizer. After testing for a hour or so the electrolizer stays cool to the touch (under 120F I will say, did not measure temp) but after shutting off the system the water from the bubbler start to come down into the electrolyzer.
Has anybody had this problem?
Would a one way valve solve the problem? (This is what I am planning to try today.)
One-way valves scare me because they create friction on each side of them, and friction can lead to ignition. Also, if you're also considering a one-way valve as a fire arrestor, from what I've heard is that this will fail because HHO implodes so violently and fast that the valve cannot either sustain that pressure or close fast enough.
The other odd thing about what you state is that I've never seen the bubbler water go back into the electrolyzer unit. Usually it's the reverse, where the vacuum of the engine sucks the electrolyzer water into the bubbler. Got a pic of your design that you can attach?
Admin/Mentor
What your experiancing is the siphon effect. The bubbler is higher than the generator, one a dribble gets started it wont stop until the bubblers internal tube is no longer submerged. you can get a one way valve or put the bubbler below the level of the generator.
2006 Ram, 5.9 cummins HO. 4 cell design, 1.5 LPM@30amp, 24.3 MPG
Thanks for your input.
I am going to try the one way valve tonight. I think is the way to go, because I can't move the bubbler at lower point than the generator (the generator is at the lowest point it can be.)
I'm curious to know if your using a bubbler on your diesel. I started out with one on mine but removed it. I decided much more damage would be done considering the large volume of air(and HHO) contained in the intake, intercooler, turbo and related hoses compared to the relatively small amount in the generator. Any thoughts?Originally Posted by Stratous
I install the one way valve and so far it seems to be working okay.
Nevertheless this is my first install and it does not seem to be producing enough HHO for my Suburban 3/4 ton (V8 6.5L diesel). I have not measure the amount of HHO but it seems to be producing roughly under or around 1L/min. That seems to be no enough (I think) for this size engine.
This brings me to the following question (which I am going to open on another thread) What's the right proportion of HHO for each cc? Or what are the factors to take in account on that equation?
What are you using for electrolyte, and what's your mixture? For instance, I had good luck with 1 tablespoon of baking soda with 1.5cups of water, but we're switching to potash now and will experiment with our potentcy to see what gives us the right advantages with the least disadvantages.
Admin/Mentor
I do use a bubbler for my diesel, its in my bumper. I cant really take a picture of it because of its location. As for how much is enough HHO. I have basically one container that contains 4 cells producing 1.5lpm. I have seen MPG gains with that amount, but I believe 2LPM would be better. In order to achieve that amount, more than one unit will be required. I would imagine 4 seperate units would be enough to achieve that w/o pulling to much power. The amount of HHO produced is related to amperage draw, but I dont believe they are directly proportional. From experiance, on my last unit I could get .7 lpm at 9 amps. If the amperage and lpm were directly proportional, then 18 amps should equal 1.4 lmp. It doesnt work that way from my experiance. The more power you put into a cell the more waste there is, you may see increase, but its not going to equal the amount of power you put in. I think that 4 seperate cells drawing 5 amps each will produce more than one cell drawing 20 amps. Anyone else have any input on this?
2006 Ram, 5.9 cummins HO. 4 cell design, 1.5 LPM@30amp, 24.3 MPG
water in my bubbler is disappearing quick. I made a new one. I think it was having a "not as sturdy as I would like" plastic lid, on a glass jar. I have my injection point right below the butterfly valve, directly on the intake manifold.
(97 Jeep Grand Cherokee) I wonder if the vacuum was sucking it. It wasn't going into the electrolyser I don't think, I sure hope anyway. I drove about 15 minutes and about a pint was gone, and that was all I put in there. Looked to be pretty much bone dry. Changing the top of my 4" PVC container from a female adapter and male cap, to a male adapter with a screw cap. I was leaking out the top, I think because the body of the container was heating up and expanding, while the lid was not seeing as much heat, due to the fact the electrolyzer was not touching it. This was causing the container to have a leak around the threads (loose seal). I guess it would be a good idea to not use female adapter to male threaded lid. Vise versa, male adapter to female lid, the body will expand causing the seal to become tighter.
This might be (it would, in my opinion) a good observation to note when making a container out of PVC.
Anyway, I'll post some picts when I get things rerouted and in place.
Side note. When removing an oxygen sensor, remove straps and coupling connector.
I just learned the hard way. Had to buy a new one when the wires came loose inside the O2 sensor. It was the original, but still, it was working and was 70$ extra that could have been saved.
I cant wait for your pics....by what you write I would say there are some odd problems with your setup!
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