In water but can't swim, now need help...

[VanHalen]

O K so I have this bad habbit of being impacient(disadvantage of being 17), unless I'm fishing. Between soccer, school, and work, I'm trying to build my HHO generators. And I don't have that much of an automotive background exept for 3 years at school. I have been researching HHO for about 4 months nonstop, and this forum is the best thing yet. I still need some help though. So heres the deal. I started with W4G, and was running about 16 MPG,then 15 MPG. After, I build my hydrogen generator from scracth and research I go down to 12 MPG. It consists of 6 plates,+NNNN-, and runs about 20 amps hot producing about 6-800 LPM. I realize I need one more nuetral to get the best current drop between plates. The thing is, my PVC is melting. So heres where the questions start.

1.How does a pelican case seal, because I'm going to just start over and want something that I assume wont melt and deform.

2.Using wall plates or whatnot from Lowes, running 2 sets or +NNNNN- spaced at about 1.6mm, could I keep this from running over 20 amps, but produce well, or is there a better setup for the cells.

3.I need help with the computer situation. I have a 1984 Chevy Blazer 2.8 carb. Is just introducing HHO into the intake manifold via the vacuum going to make a difference or am I going to need to adjust jet flow? I figure that the HHO would make enough difference to where I'd hit the gas pedal less for same effect, but I'm no expert. I believe I have a MAP, but I thought being a carb most gas flow changes would be mechanical. Basically I need help with any sensor I need to install(o2 sensor and such).

4.Is using a PWM necessary? Isn't it basically just a switch with adjustable on/off intervals?

5. Any other insight would be nice.

[JonDoh]

Build dry cells.... get away from flooded cells!

Follow painless's design.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrovCAzg_kY

I built it last night!

My config was: +nnn--nnn+

In my flooded cell it was pulling bout 15-18amps with 1LPM with that config. and temperature was 130-140 degrees

After I built the Dry cell using the same exact plates... it never went over 10amps or over 110 degrees for two hours..... and produced bout 1.3 LPM using the same electrolyte solution!

Dry cells are he way to go bro!!

[JonDoh]

By the way....

THANKS PAINLESS!!

[Painless]

You're most welcome, but I can't take credit for the dry cell design, all I did was make it work with Lowes parts.

[hydrotinkerer]

O K so I have this bad habbit of being impacient(disadvantage of being 17), unless I'm fishing. Between soccer, school, and work, I'm trying to build my HHO generators. And I don't have that much of an automotive background exept for 3 years at school. I have been researching HHO for about 4 months nonstop, and this forum is the best thing yet. I still need some help though. So heres the deal. I started with W4G, and was running about 16 MPG,then 15 MPG. After, I build my hydrogen generator from scracth and research I go down to 12 MPG. It consists of 6 plates,+NNNN-, and runs about 20 amps hot producing about 6-800 LPM. I realize I need one more nuetral to get the best current drop between plates. The thing is, my PVC is melting. So heres where the questions start.

1.How does a pelican case seal, because I'm going to just start over and want something that I assume wont melt and deform.

2.Using wall plates or whatnot from Lowes, running 2 sets or +NNNNN- spaced at about 1.6mm, could I keep this from running over 20 amps, but produce well, or is there a better setup for the cells.

3.I need help with the computer situation. I have a 1984 Chevy Blazer 2.8 carb. Is just introducing HHO into the intake manifold via the vacuum going to make a difference or am I going to need to adjust jet flow? I figure that the HHO would make enough difference to where I'd hit the gas pedal less for same effect, but I'm no expert. I believe I have a MAP, but I thought being a carb most gas flow changes would be mechanical. Basically I need help with any sensor I need to install(o2 sensor and such).

4.Is using a PWM necessary? Isn't it basically just a switch with adjustable on/off intervals?

5. Any other insight would be nice.

Have you read "Smith experiment in HHO" there's alot of info on the pelican(plumabob/smith)setup. I built one and it works great. You will probably need atleast 1lpm. On a carb setup running it to vacuum you probably wont notice much difference. Try running the gas hose on the clean side of the filter and not to vacuum. In 84 the carb could have feedback controls or not. Is this truck cali. emissions or fed?

[VanHalen]

I'm not sure about emissions, will check this out tonight as I'm in school right now.

[JonDoh]

You're most welcome, but I can't take credit for the dry cell design, all I did was make it work with Lowes parts.

Yea.... that's what I mean... making it work with the Lowes parts

[HHOhoper]

O K so I have this bad habbit of being impacient(disadvantage of being 17), unless I'm fishing. Between soccer, school, and work, I'm trying to build my HHO generators. And I don't have that much of an automotive background exept for 3 years at school. I have been researching HHO for about 4 months nonstop, and this forum is the best thing yet. I still need some help though. So heres the deal. I started with W4G, and was running about 16 MPG,then 15 MPG. After, I build my hydrogen generator from scracth and research I go down to 12 MPG. It consists of 6 plates,+NNNN-, and runs about 20 amps hot producing about 6-800 LPM. I realize I need one more nuetral to get the best current drop between plates. The thing is, my PVC is melting. So heres where the questions start.

1.How does a pelican case seal, because I'm going to just start over and want something that I assume wont melt and deform.

2.Using wall plates or whatnot from Lowes, running 2 sets or +NNNNN- spaced at about 1.6mm, could I keep this from running over 20 amps, but produce well, or is there a better setup for the cells.

3.I need help with the computer situation. I have a 1984 Chevy Blazer 2.8 carb. Is just introducing HHO into the intake manifold via the vacuum going to make a difference or am I going to need to adjust jet flow? I figure that the HHO would make enough difference to where I'd hit the gas pedal less for same effect, but I'm no expert. I believe I have a MAP, but I thought being a carb most gas flow changes would be mechanical. Basically I need help with any sensor I need to install(o2 sensor and such).

4.Is using a PWM necessary? Isn't it basically just a switch with adjustable on/off intervals?

5. Any other insight would be nice.

I had the same problem! I built four different designs and didn't get anywhere. So I decided to use the Plumbabob plate design with the Smith casing and it has worked out great. Read my post here for the details:

http://hhoforums.com/showthread.php?...ed=1#post15053