volomike
08-19-2008, 06:23 PM
Can anyone hear my story below on my total kit arrangement, then give me pointers? I already know now that I need a PWM, so that's part of the advice I need as well.
Here's my current arrangement, and it's got issues.
* Powertube-type electrolyzer kit. Using PVC in an elbow arrangement, with a rustproof exhaust pipe stuck down the middle, stainless carriage bolt, stainless large flat washers, and stainless lock washers (two between each flat washer).
* One tube coming out the electrolyzer and into a large glass jar with a metal lid for the bubbler, placed on rubber and secured with a heavy duty cable tie, the tubes sealed with heat resistant gasket sealant.
* One tube coming out the top (the airy part) of the half-filled bubbler, feeding into the fuel injector air intake box.
* The electrolyzer is wired direct to the battery with a 30amp cutoff switch, with no fuses, relays, or PWM. The wiring is thickish -- about 2/3rds smaller than the wiring to your Personal Computer.
Okay, here are the problems I'm having:
* On a low electrolyte level of 3 teaspoons of lye per gallon of water, I get about 2 bubbles per second and not very many issues except that the electrolyzer needs refilling every 2 days and the bubbler needs refilling (half full) every 4th day. However, I'm only able to take a 16mpg vehicle up to 24mpg (city driving).
* On a higher electrolyze level of 1.25 tablespoons of lye per gallon of water, where I got greedy to go beyond 24mpg, I started to have issues. First, the wiring got hot. Eventually it started to melt the cutoff switch wiring in the cabin of the vehicle, creating stink and smoke, and I had to cut it off. Second, even with the thing turned off, the bubbler was still going nuts for at least 10 minutes afterwards until it diminished to nothing, and of course I had to keep the engine running while that was going on so that I don't create an explosion of unused HHO. Third, once the bubbles stopped, something bizarre happened -- the electrolyzer started sucking water out the bubbler.
So, after watching enough videos on YouTube, I'm realizing finally now that I need a Pulse Wave Modulator so that instead of going the full 12 amps, I can draw this back down to 1 or 2 amps and pulse the power in, and hopefully yield near the same output of HHO but without the heat and wiring issues.
As for the vacuum issue that occurs once the electrolyzer dies down -- I have no idea why.
So what are your pointers?
Here's my current arrangement, and it's got issues.
* Powertube-type electrolyzer kit. Using PVC in an elbow arrangement, with a rustproof exhaust pipe stuck down the middle, stainless carriage bolt, stainless large flat washers, and stainless lock washers (two between each flat washer).
* One tube coming out the electrolyzer and into a large glass jar with a metal lid for the bubbler, placed on rubber and secured with a heavy duty cable tie, the tubes sealed with heat resistant gasket sealant.
* One tube coming out the top (the airy part) of the half-filled bubbler, feeding into the fuel injector air intake box.
* The electrolyzer is wired direct to the battery with a 30amp cutoff switch, with no fuses, relays, or PWM. The wiring is thickish -- about 2/3rds smaller than the wiring to your Personal Computer.
Okay, here are the problems I'm having:
* On a low electrolyte level of 3 teaspoons of lye per gallon of water, I get about 2 bubbles per second and not very many issues except that the electrolyzer needs refilling every 2 days and the bubbler needs refilling (half full) every 4th day. However, I'm only able to take a 16mpg vehicle up to 24mpg (city driving).
* On a higher electrolyze level of 1.25 tablespoons of lye per gallon of water, where I got greedy to go beyond 24mpg, I started to have issues. First, the wiring got hot. Eventually it started to melt the cutoff switch wiring in the cabin of the vehicle, creating stink and smoke, and I had to cut it off. Second, even with the thing turned off, the bubbler was still going nuts for at least 10 minutes afterwards until it diminished to nothing, and of course I had to keep the engine running while that was going on so that I don't create an explosion of unused HHO. Third, once the bubbles stopped, something bizarre happened -- the electrolyzer started sucking water out the bubbler.
So, after watching enough videos on YouTube, I'm realizing finally now that I need a Pulse Wave Modulator so that instead of going the full 12 amps, I can draw this back down to 1 or 2 amps and pulse the power in, and hopefully yield near the same output of HHO but without the heat and wiring issues.
As for the vacuum issue that occurs once the electrolyzer dies down -- I have no idea why.
So what are your pointers?