Wiring plates details

[liberybell]

I have been reading a lot about wiring setups; serial sets, parallel sets, etc. But what I have found very little of is some details about the wiring used to connect the plates.
So I thought that it would be helpful for us to get a good understanding of the materials people have been using to connect the plates.

I was initially planning to connect the plates with strips of ss plates and connect them all in parallel to a ss threaded rod that I can cut at any length desired. But my inability to weld and points may by others in this great forum have made me change my design.
Now I am thinking to connect on series the three sets of 7 plates (-NN+NN-) as shown on picture.
My question are:
1> Can I use say 12 gauge wire of solid copper to connect the plates on my setting? Any other gauge suggestions? Any other wire type instead solid copper suggestions? (The external system brings the current through a 10g wire.)
2> Do I have to completely insulate the connections?(plate bolt and wire, sealed from water)
3> Can I use ss small bolts and nuts to connect the copper wire to the plate? Or should I use a different type of bolt and nut?
4> Instead ss can I use copper or some other metal as the terminal that bring the current from the outside to the interior of the generator? (My thinking is that by using a more conductive metal that ss as the terminals, which they cross through my 3/8" polycarbonate sheet the heat will not be produce at that point but just at the plates. Preventing the cover from overheating.)

What material should I use to insulate the connections and the terminal (in the inside)? I have been told that liquid rubber (which they come on spray cans) can serve the purpose really well. What you think?
I hope my questions are clear. Thank you!

[liberybell]

No input guys?
I really need some help with these questions.
Thanks!

[Painless]

1> Can I use say 12 gauge wire of solid copper to connect the plates on my setting? Any other gauge suggestions? Any other wire type instead solid copper suggestions? (The external system brings the current through a 10g wire.)

As always, the gauge of your wire should exceed the maximum amps you will be putting through it, if you're planning around 20 amps I would use the 10 gauge.

The only issue I can see with using copper wire to connect the plates is if the copper comes in contact with the electrolyte, introducing other metals into the electrolysis is a definite no-no. You may be able to get around this by sealing them water-tight. I'm about to try exactly this myself.


2> Do I have to completely insulate the connections?(plate bolt and wire, sealed from water)

I would, yes, otherwise you will get unwanted current leakage into the electrolyte.


3> Can I use ss small bolts and nuts to connect the copper wire to the plate? Or should I use a different type of bolt and nut?

SS nuts should be fine.


4> Instead ss can I use copper or some other metal as the terminal that bring the current from the outside to the interior of the generator?

You can, but you need to bare in mind my earlier warning about introducing other metals into the electrolysis process.


What material should I use to insulate the connections and the terminal (in the inside)? I have been told that liquid rubber (which they come on spray cans) can serve the purpose really well. What you think?
I hope my questions are clear. Thank you!

McMaster make a tool dip that is good, from what I've heard. You basically want something that won't melt or deform at the temps being used.

Hope this provides some direction for you.

[liberybell]

Painless, thank you so much for your reply.
Yes, I am planning to use a type of rubber seal that can stand high heat.

I am thinking that using terminals of copper will reduce heat since it has a greater conductivity (less resistance)

Thanks again!

[bigapple]

Painless, thank you so much for your reply.
Yes, I am planning to use a type of rubber seal that can stand high heat.

I am thinking that using terminals of copper will reduce heat since it has a greater conductivity (less resistance)

Thanks again!

i work at an autozone and we sell a great gasket maker that ive used on my cells... go into the epoxy and glue isle and look for red rtv high heat gasket sealer... its great for this cuz it seals small gaps that hydrogen can get thru and since its made to withstand the heat of an engine, it wont melt at all

[Painless]

Painless, thank you so much for your reply.
Yes, I am planning to use a type of rubber seal that can stand high heat.

I am thinking that using terminals of copper will reduce heat since it has a greater conductivity (less resistance)

Thanks again!

You're more than welcome, I also had the same thought about the copper wire helping out between cells. Please share your results when you have some!


i work at an autozone and we sell a great gasket maker that ive used on my cells... go into the epoxy and glue isle and look for red rtv high heat gasket sealer... its great for this cuz it seals small gaps that hydrogen can get thru and since its made to withstand the heat of an engine, it wont melt at all

That definitely sounds like something to check out, I had done some experiments with liquid tape from home depot and was not happy with the results.

[liberybell]

i work at an autozone and we sell a great gasket maker that ive used on my cells... go into the epoxy and glue isle and look for red rtv high heat gasket sealer... its great for this cuz it seals small gaps that hydrogen can get thru and since its made to withstand the heat of an engine, it wont melt at all

What about Silicone seal (rated at 400F). Would that work?
Would it release some type of fumes as it becomes in contact with the electrolyte?