Lock & Lock, 10 Plate HHO Gen [Pictures and Results]

[slimk]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3157/2747630436_4965451dfc_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3256/2746811617_bc530c3bb8_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3292/2746805367_f11b8b5bb7_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3012/2747634232_6f58d1800a_b.jpg

I've built my first HHO generator, I tried to build a H2 separator before with not much sucess so now i've tried doing a normal hho generator.

I am using a 5kg lock and lock container, 10 304 SS plates [3X5], 1/4 4 inch bolts and all stainless steel hardware with zip ties.

my plate configuration is -nn+nn-nn+ and so far its working well, i put my lye in a 1/2 tea spoon at a time until i ended up with 3 tea spoons in total so far, and its producing .75 lpm with almost no heat. i dont know the amps, all i know is its under 30, as i have a 30A breaker and its not tripping.

at first i tried using the mixture of lye/water that i was using with my h2 seperator which was about 4 litres of water to 4 table spoons of lye and it produced about .2-.25 lmp in about 5 seconds and then the breaker cut out...lol clearly way to much lye. i didnt have any ro water left so i just used our kitchen water filter [the on the faucet type] to filter some water for it, i tried running it with just that 'tap water' and found no bubbles...i guess the filter does its job at getting the minerals out...so i started to add the lye as described above, it didnt really start going until 3 tea spoons were added though.

the water/lye is discolored i know...im not sure why other then i had a little but of back flow from my home-made lpm meter, i turned off the gen and then was messing around with the water lpm meter i made, and i think some of the tap water from that went through the hose and ended up back in the generator, cause right afterwards it started looking bad. any other possible reasons for the water looking so discolored so fast?

please give me your advice and input as to how i can make it better.

i intend to keep adding more lye until i get it to run as close to 30A without it tripping the breaker, to see what kind of lpm i can get out of it.

my multimeter isnt helping me figure out the amps even though i have it hooked up right so i dont know what amps im drawing yet until i get a different/better way to read the amps...sorry

[shortstack]

let use know what temp your getting, expecially when you get it the amps higher. you problably not getting much heat cause you have a whole lot of " water" for the size of the cell, looks real good

[midnight1957]

Hi, I have the exact same Lock and Lock container that that you have, do you like it so far and where did you find it?
I am making a generator that has 4 cells inside wired in series with 7 plates to each side. I am going with + N N - N N + to see how this will work.
It looks like your water is about an inch from the top is that correct? Have you had any problems with it wanting to bubble over? My plates seem to be about as close to the top as yours which will leave me with about a half of inch if I submerge my plates all the way as I would like to do.
Why not submerge your plates all the way to see if you have any problems and also to see if you make more HHO.
Looks good though, keep at it. I will be out of town all next week so I won't have a chance to finish mine until I get back.

Thanks and have a Blessed day,
Wade

[slimk]

let use know what temp your getting, especially when you get it the amps higher. you probably not getting much heat cause you have a whole lot of " water" for the size of the cell, looks real good

well i put another tea spoon of lye in [4 tea spoons in total], not the best idea because after 30 min of running it the 30A breaker went...BUT the good news is the temperature never got very high, in fact i know because i used a infrared thermometer that it never went over 90 f even!

[slimk]

Hi, I have the exact same Lock and Lock container that that you have, do you like it so far and where did you find it?
I am making a generator that has 4 cells inside wired in series with 7 plates to each side. I am going with + N N - N N + to see how this will work.
It looks like your water is about an inch from the top is that correct? Have you had any problems with it wanting to bubble over? My plates seem to be about as close to the top as yours which will leave me with about a half of inch if I submerge my plates all the way as I would like to do.
Why not submerge your plates all the way to see if you have any problems and also to see if you make more HHO.
Looks good though, keep at it. I will be out of town all next week so I won't have a chance to finish mine until I get back.

Thanks and have a Blessed day,
Wade

Yes i like this container, theres lots of room to maneuver around inside when your installing/tweaking things. I got it from walmart for 12.97 + tax.

My water level is so that it is JUST barely over the top edge of the plates, and yes about an inch of air space above the surface of the water.

So far no issues with bubbling over or anything but I haven't used it in a car, im sure it will slosh around a lot so im going to use a bubbler.

---------------

since i added another tea spoon of lye, to total 4 tea spoons total, my production went from 750ml per min to 1.1 lpm, BUT after 30 min or so the 30A breaker went. so now im going to try to take out some of the lye/water mix out and add just fresh water to try and get it back so it wont go over 30A, then once i get a relay and 1/4 check valve ill try it in the car.

any idea where to get a cheap [but good] relay and a 1/4 ID check valve, i could only get a 1/8 aquarium check valve but that limits the flow WAY too much.

im thinking i should change it from -nn+nn-nn+ to -nnn+nnn- or -nnnnnnnnn+, would either of these be better?

[c02cutter]

All of my testing that I have provided video on this forum is using Lock-n-Lock containers. These containers are awesome as they have a true rubber seal, but the plastic will not hold direct heat of the posts going through the lid using materials that transfer heat to the lid. You can use this container as a test bed, but not if you do not isolated the posts. To do so you need to purchase some nylon shoulder washers and rubber grommets to isolate the heat from the plastic. You can buy these items from Lowes, Home depot, or like I do and use McMaster Carr.

Do not use this container for a automotive installation... It will be a disaster waiting to happen,

[slimk]

All of my testing that I have provided video on this forum is using Lock-n-Lock containers. These containers are awesome as they have a true rubber seal, but the plastic will not hold direct heat of the posts going through the lid using materials that transfer heat to the lid. You can use this container as a test bed, but not if you do not isolated the posts. To do so you need to purchase some nylon shoulder washers and rubber grommets to isolate the heat from the plastic. You can buy these items from Lowes, Home depot, or like I do and use McMaster Carr.

Do not use this container for a automotive installation... It will be a disaster waiting to happen,

you have provided videos? where can i watch them, or you can provide me with some links? thanks...

so your saying the ss bolts will heat up so much that they will melt the surrounding housing? what temp's did you find they started to melt at..so far ive only got to sub 90 f temps..so heat is definately not an issue for me with this setup...at least yet...since the fuse will blow before the heat gets out of control.

in home depot what department are the rubber grommets in? plumbing? i already have the nylon washers...i dont know why i didnt think to use them against the container...lol

[midnight1957]

Lowes always has a line of cabinets with all kind of small parts, I have found them usually at the entrance or nearby.

For the other poster, if you don't think the Lock-Lock containers will work, what container are you using, please don't tell me pvc?

Thanks and have a Blessed day,
Wade

[c02cutter]

and here...

http://www.hhoforums.com/showthread.php?t=616

and here
http://www.hhoforums.com/showthread.php?t=781

[c02cutter]

Not a matter of the SS bolts heating up as the whole cell. I am just saying that if you isolate the bolts from the container you can do decent testing. To run thorough testing or application you need a sturdier container. I did these videos using an lock-n-lock container, as for durability, it degraded over time and to the point where I was using the deionized water and had to add finger pressure to get a production that was that visual over a container that was almost sealed. There are multiple containers that people are using,, and I do not degrade what they are using, just know through my own experiments that a lock-n-lock container will degrade eventually. You will loose seal over time even on a test cell. Best to go with a container that will hold a seal under conditions that are involved. All of the tests that I did with this type of container where bench tests. I will never use this type of container for in vehicle use.