JojoJaro
08-08-2008, 04:13 PM
Folks, I've been thinking about the LTC Fisher perforated tube design and I came up with a possible improvement to it. Please critique and shoot it down the best you can so that I can understand the flaws in my reasoning.
So, I only have this design built in my head so no pictures.
But imagine, strips of stainless steel mesh screen rolled up into a cylinder. I'm thinking 6" X 20" strips of mesh screen. Layer one stainless steel strip, then a plastic door screen, the another stainless stell strip, then another plastic door screen strip, etc. Layer enough to make a +nnnn- or -nnnn+ or +nnnnn- or -nnnnn+ or +nnnnnn- or -nnnnnn+ design. The plastic door screen is for insulating the stainless steel strips from each other so they should be cut a little wider and longer. Do not roll too tightly so that you will have spacings for the gas to bubble up.
After you roll it up, you should end up with a tube cylinder composed of multiple layers of stainless steel. Roll the inside on a stainless steel rod (maybe 1/2" rod) to act as the connection and also to support the entire structure as you roll it. This center rod can be + or -. Weld another rod to the outermost screen after you finish rolling to the desired diameter. Put everthing inside a nalgene bottle. (Thanks for the tip from scribs212)
http://www.nalgene-outdoor.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=41
Few questions before I buy my stainless steel screen.
1. Would it be better to buy a more dense screen or a less dense screen? Here's the stainless steel screen mesh I'm envisioning. (The first one in the picture.)
http://www.directmetals.com/direct_metals_catalog/wire_stainless_filters.pdf
Here's a better site that sells all kinds of mesh sizes and 316 Stainless. The prices are very reasonable.
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/control/category/%7Ecategory_id=TWPCAT_SS_Medium/%7Epcategory=TWPCAT_12
Which one will hold up more? Thicker wire or thinner wire with more dense weave? 8 mesh or 16 mesh?
2. Which one is better? +nnnn- or -nnnn+ or +nnnnn- or -nnnnn+ or +nnnnnn- or -nnnnnn+. The center rod is the first electrode. 4 neutral mesh is 2.76V per cell pair. 5 neutral mesh is 2.3V per cell pair and 6 neutral mesh is 1.97V per cell pair. Which voltage differential is optimal? 2.76V, 2.3V or 1.97V? (I'm using 13.8V battery voltage on a running car.)
3. Is it best to have a bigger container with more electrolyte to control heat or a smaller container for a snug fit to control stray currents?
4. Will the stainless steel screen holdup against corrosion?
5. What is the best way to weld the rods to the screen mesh? Will steel bond epoxy work? Is it conductive at all?
6. I'm envisioning using passive flow of electrolyte for automatic refill and control heat. Just like this flow from March labs. The bubbler contains the electrolyte that flows down while the gases flow up. Supposedly this will cool the electrolyte. Does this work for cooling?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hydrogen-generator-fuel-cell-HHO-Watch-this-video-new_W0QQitemZ280253722616QQihZ018QQcategoryZ3240QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
7. What other thing can I use in place of the plastic door screen for insulating the stainless mesh from each other? A thicker material with bigger mesh gaps would I think be ideal so that we can maintain a optimum spacing of 1-2 mm and have holes for the gas to bubble up.
OK, please be brutal in your critique so that I can hear the worst possible reason not to use this design.
So, I only have this design built in my head so no pictures.
But imagine, strips of stainless steel mesh screen rolled up into a cylinder. I'm thinking 6" X 20" strips of mesh screen. Layer one stainless steel strip, then a plastic door screen, the another stainless stell strip, then another plastic door screen strip, etc. Layer enough to make a +nnnn- or -nnnn+ or +nnnnn- or -nnnnn+ or +nnnnnn- or -nnnnnn+ design. The plastic door screen is for insulating the stainless steel strips from each other so they should be cut a little wider and longer. Do not roll too tightly so that you will have spacings for the gas to bubble up.
After you roll it up, you should end up with a tube cylinder composed of multiple layers of stainless steel. Roll the inside on a stainless steel rod (maybe 1/2" rod) to act as the connection and also to support the entire structure as you roll it. This center rod can be + or -. Weld another rod to the outermost screen after you finish rolling to the desired diameter. Put everthing inside a nalgene bottle. (Thanks for the tip from scribs212)
http://www.nalgene-outdoor.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=41
Few questions before I buy my stainless steel screen.
1. Would it be better to buy a more dense screen or a less dense screen? Here's the stainless steel screen mesh I'm envisioning. (The first one in the picture.)
http://www.directmetals.com/direct_metals_catalog/wire_stainless_filters.pdf
Here's a better site that sells all kinds of mesh sizes and 316 Stainless. The prices are very reasonable.
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/control/category/%7Ecategory_id=TWPCAT_SS_Medium/%7Epcategory=TWPCAT_12
Which one will hold up more? Thicker wire or thinner wire with more dense weave? 8 mesh or 16 mesh?
2. Which one is better? +nnnn- or -nnnn+ or +nnnnn- or -nnnnn+ or +nnnnnn- or -nnnnnn+. The center rod is the first electrode. 4 neutral mesh is 2.76V per cell pair. 5 neutral mesh is 2.3V per cell pair and 6 neutral mesh is 1.97V per cell pair. Which voltage differential is optimal? 2.76V, 2.3V or 1.97V? (I'm using 13.8V battery voltage on a running car.)
3. Is it best to have a bigger container with more electrolyte to control heat or a smaller container for a snug fit to control stray currents?
4. Will the stainless steel screen holdup against corrosion?
5. What is the best way to weld the rods to the screen mesh? Will steel bond epoxy work? Is it conductive at all?
6. I'm envisioning using passive flow of electrolyte for automatic refill and control heat. Just like this flow from March labs. The bubbler contains the electrolyte that flows down while the gases flow up. Supposedly this will cool the electrolyte. Does this work for cooling?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hydrogen-generator-fuel-cell-HHO-Watch-this-video-new_W0QQitemZ280253722616QQihZ018QQcategoryZ3240QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
7. What other thing can I use in place of the plastic door screen for insulating the stainless mesh from each other? A thicker material with bigger mesh gaps would I think be ideal so that we can maintain a optimum spacing of 1-2 mm and have holes for the gas to bubble up.
OK, please be brutal in your critique so that I can hear the worst possible reason not to use this design.