Brown water= bad results??

[alwaysrainingonme]

Hey guys, I would like to introduce myself to the group here. My name is Doug and Im definately a newbie here, not only to this website, but to HHO in general. I purchased a drycell kit for my truck about 2 months ago and have been learning so much since then. Some days I feel so happy about the progress ive made, while other days im ready to throw in the towel due to frustration.lol
My problem yesterday seemed to be dirty, brown, rusty colored mixture in the reservoir. My milage became so bad I actually pulled the fuse and ran with just straight gas on the way home. Im wondering this...
was my mixture all used up, and basically the cell was making only oxygen?, That in turn was being pulled into the engine, and the ECU picked it up as extra oxygen and compensated by adding more fuel?
My amps stayed the same( around 10) and Im using KOH as an electrolyte. The ONLY difference was the color of the water, but on that note, Ive seen many systems on youtube with the same brown mixture and it didnt seem to bother there setup.
I have since flushed it out, and poured in a new fresh mix. This seems to be working much better as MPG's seem to be back again.:) Im getting 25-30 MPG's on a 3.0V6 with 215,000 miles, pulling 10 amps.

Thanks again guys..

[alwaysrainingonme]

Hey guys, I would like to introduce myself to the group here. My name is Doug and Im definately a newbie here, not only to this website, but to HHO in general. I purchased a drycell kit for my truck about 2 months ago and have been learning so much since then. Some days I feel so happy about the progress ive made, while other days im ready to throw in the towel due to frustration.lol
My problem yesterday seemed to be dirty, brown, rusty colored mixture in the reservoir. My milage became so bad I actually pulled the fuse and ran with just straight gas on the way home. Im wondering this...
was my mixture all used up, and basically the cell was making only oxygen?, That in turn was being pulled into the engine, and the ECU picked it up as extra oxygen and compensated by adding more fuel?
My amps stayed the same( around 10) and Im using KOH as an electrolyte. The ONLY difference was the color of the water, but on that note, Ive seen many systems on youtube with the same brown mixture and it didnt seem to bother there setup.
I have since flushed it out, and poured in a new fresh mix. This seems to be working much better as MPG's seem to be back again.:) Im getting 25-30 MPG's on a 3.0V6 with 215,000 miles, pulling 10 amps.

Thanks again guys..

seriously guys....nobody else has issues with brown water and worn out electrolyte..?:confused:

[D.O.G]

seriously guys....nobody else has issues with brown water and worn out electrolyte..?:confused:

Actually......no:p

"was my mixture all used up, and basically the cell was making only oxygen?, That in turn was being pulled into the engine, and the ECU picked it up as extra oxygen and compensated by adding more fuel?"


"Brown water" is usually due to contaminants in the electrolyte, maybe leached out of the plates, maybe out of the gaskets or maybe from the water. As you've already done, flush and refill using distilled water, not rain or tap water and (maybe after a few times) it will stay clear.

Your reactor splits H20, it produces two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom, never only hydrogen or only oxygen.
The KOH or NaOH is not used up (or worn out) in the process, but can be slowly carried out of the reactor in water vapour over time. If your amps stayed the same, your electrolyte concentration probably hadn't changed much, if at all.

How did you measure your MPG's?

[Havens78]

seriously guys....nobody else has issues with brown water and worn out electrolyte..?:confused:


How large are the plates in your dry cell kit? You only want to run your cell at .5 amps per square inch of surface area. For example if you have a 13 plate kit that has 10 square inches inside the gasket area you only want to run a maximum of 5 amps per stack or 10 amps in the example i'm giving. An easier way to understand it would be to take the area inside your gasket on a plate, multiply that by .5 and then multiply that number by how many stacks of neutrals you have in your unit. A +nnnnn-nnnnn+ unit would have 2 stacks, thus your 10 square inches could only be run at a maximum of 10 amps. Or a +nnnnn- stack could only be run at 5 amps. If you follow this rule you shouldn't have a problem with brown water.

First thing though, rinse that dry cell out and you might have to do it more than twice to get all that junk out of there.

Are you using the reservoir as a bubbler or do you have a separate bubbler for your dry cell? I would suggest a separate bubbler if you do not already have one, you can make one with 2" pvc pretty easily.

Any of that make sense?

[Madsceintist]

seriously guys....nobody else has issues with brown water and worn out electrolyte..?:confused:

Check out brown water thread................

[aceras624]

sounds like youve exceeded recomended amps per square inch :)

[alwaysrainingonme]

Actually......no:p

"was my mixture all used up, and basically the cell was making only oxygen?, That in turn was being pulled into the engine, and the ECU picked it up as extra oxygen and compensated by adding more fuel?"


"Brown water" is usually due to contaminants in the electrolyte, maybe leached out of the plates, maybe out of the gaskets or maybe from the water. As you've already done, flush and refill using distilled water, not rain or tap water and (maybe after a few times) it will stay clear.

Your reactor splits H20, it produces two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom, never only hydrogen or only oxygen.
The KOH or NaOH is not used up (or worn out) in the process, but can be slowly carried out of the reactor in water vapour over time. If your amps stayed the same, your electrolyte concentration probably hadn't changed much, if at all.

How did you measure your MPG's?

"Brown water" is usually due to contaminants in the electrolyte, maybe leached out of the plates, maybe out of the gaskets or maybe from the water. As you've already done, flush and refill using distilled water, not rain or tap water and (maybe after a few times) it will stay clear.
hmmm...well I got to thinking about this and Im wondering if its condensation inside the tank. I live in a very humid, and wet area(washington state) and condensation is deffinately a promblem around here.
I could go on and on with items Ive taken a 1/8 drill bit to in order to let the water drain out.lol
yea, I only use distilled water, but if its condensation, then who knows what the hell that is considered..

[alwaysrainingonme]

How large are the plates in your dry cell kit? You only want to run your cell at .5 amps per square inch of surface area. For example if you have a 13 plate kit that has 10 square inches inside the gasket area you only want to run a maximum of 5 amps per stack or 10 amps in the example i'm giving. An easier way to understand it would be to take the area inside your gasket on a plate, multiply that by .5 and then multiply that number by how many stacks of neutrals you have in your unit. A +nnnnn-nnnnn+ unit would have 2 stacks, thus your 10 square inches could only be run at a maximum of 10 amps. Or a +nnnnn- stack could only be run at 5 amps. If you follow this rule you shouldn't have a problem with brown water.

First thing though, rinse that dry cell out and you might have to do it more than twice to get all that junk out of there.

Are you using the reservoir as a bubbler or do you have a separate bubbler for your dry cell? I would suggest a separate bubbler if you do not already have one, you can make one with 2" pvc pretty easily.

Any of that make sense?

Any of that make sense?...:eek:
I know this may sound like Im taking the easy way out, but I purchased a pre-assembled generator from hydroclubusa. I couldnt even begin to tell you which plat are + or -...
Im still wet behind the ears with hho, and all I know is the unit is 4x4x2 and they claim 2.25LPM's@30amps.
here is there link.
http://www.hydroclubusa.com/products.php

I am running an additional bubbler which they included in there kit. It doesnt resemble anything close to the 2" pvc ones that I have seen also on other installs.

[alwaysrainingonme]

Check out brown water thread................

I will do that...Thank You:)

[alwaysrainingonme]

sounds like youve exceeded recomended amps per square inch :)

Im only running around 10 amps though..??:(

[aceras624]

Im only running around 10 amps though..??:(

if you have a faulty system, 10 amps could be too much! there are a bunch of reasons why we all choose to make our own HHO generators. Its rules out all the things that could be going wrong when someone buys one. sorry :)

[Philjohns]

Hi newbie here. I am playing with hho production and while i am getting reasonable production i am also getting a lot if scum build up turns the water black and has bits floating in it also. i am using salt in my distilled water( sodium ferrocyanide) any ideas please

[toyotawarrior]

i tried ordinary table salt just as test and i got an insane ammount of brown sludge in the container compared to bakeing soda. i also noticed my plates getting "cleaner" the longer it ran so most likely it was also whatever kind of oxidization that was on the surface of the plates (i didnt polish them or anything). ive seen in alot of drycell assembly video's they say you have to clean the plates really well before putting them all together.

[Michaeljohn]

are a bunch of reasons why we all choose to make our own HHO generators. Its rules out all the things that could be going wrong when someone buys one. sorry



__________________________________________________
wow gold (http://www.mmoggg.de/)|Diablo 3 Gold kaufen (http://www.mmoggg.de/Diablo-3-gold/)|Guild wars 2 gold (http://www.mmoggg.de/Guild-Wars-2/)|Diablo 3 Gold (http://www.mmoggg.de/Diablo-3 gold/)