Brown water

[Madsceintist]

I was reading about the brown water and the smack cell and so on. A guy said he found no proof of the hexavalientchromium(?) was true. When i first started studying HHO, before i started using it i spoke to several people even emailed a person thru a NASA questions site(i was trying to see how credible the Stan Meyers story was at first, but asked some important questions while I had the chance). Took months and numerous emails to get a response. But the response was that there is that substance in the brown sludge created from electrolysis. Turns out nuclear reactors use whats called Heavy water in there cooling pools, and long term electrolysis of a body of water creates hexavalientchromium (removes unseen contaminants in water; i.e. brown sludge). THAT IS A MAJOR HEALTH CONCERN. Don't play with that sludge !

[myoldyourgold]

There is no brown sludge if you use 316L and stay withing the .5 amps per square inch of active area on one side of one plate. In the cleaning and conditioning process there is some risk of some CR6 will be formed and this electrolyte needs to be disposed of in the proper manner (delivered to toxic waste disposal site properly labled) or neutralized.

[Madsceintist]

I'm not the techie guy so videos are next to none but i did put one on you tube. I was starting my tube trials. The one in that video i started off conditioning it at 2 volts. Played with it some, but after 1 day had some discoloration, 2 days had sludge, then let it sit. It all went to the bottom after some time. But that was 30 gallons of tap water! It's all 316L, I buy it .5 mile away from me from a place that sells and installs food service systems.

[Left-handed individual]

I'm not sure about that Brown stuff... havent run HHO for longer than 1 day, but I did notice my generator and the water was red within a few hours of operation. Since I overloaded it with lye(about 41/2 tbsp for 2.2L of water) I ruled it out to be the lye getting cooked from drawing too much amps. I used clean drinking water.. no tap. Stainless steel plates.. but galvanized fencing wire as electrodes.

Could it be what I first thought or may that be cause from the galvanized steel?.

[Madsceintist]

BAD idea, dude. That's a chemical coating on there as well, it's used to keep the metal from rusting or corroding.

[mmmjjg]

try using distilled water instead of tap water, with electrolye of course

[Left-handed individual]

Thanks man... I was having my doubts about that galvanized wire. I bought some stainless steel wire to use as electrodes.. I am attempting to run that straight through the fuse and switch to the battery and avoid using wires... Is this a bad idea?
Had a few overheating issues with copper wire... then again it was thin speaker wire.
Ive re-sanded down my plates and re assembled them.. just gotta make the whole thing air-tight and remake my bubbler and commence test drive # 2. which I expect to be longer than the first which was just a few hours at producing half a litter per minute and yet saw a noticeable difference in power and mileage. Can't wait to get this done.


BAD idea, dude. That's a chemical coating on there as well, it's used to keep the metal from rusting or corroding.

[Madsceintist]

Stainless to the battery? I guess if you want and can afford it. I actually wondered if that would make a difference in the flow of electrons myself? But simple 2-12 insulated and 12 gauge automotive from home depot is what i use. 2-12 to my gen from the relay, 12 gauge automotive to the battery, but i run my ground straight to the alternator bracket(less system electronics pull). I'm also working on an secondary power source that only runs while the cars in motion but will charge a secondary battery where as the cars system wont be involved except for some interaction from sensor outputs.

[Madsceintist]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqgQv4yRHcA&context=C381fd40ADOEgsToPDskJiK3GIaH-6TZm397gUuLpm
try using distilled water instead of tap water, with electrolye of course


I was using distilled. It seems most people are using electrolytes of some kind, mostly KOH, and i had used some for a very short time but I actually found that i got the same out of plain tap. Just spiked the amps over 50 then drop back to 2 amps and my cell works likes its running at 50 amps(don't know why yet but I'm working on that!).
I have a video on youtube with my long tubes in a drum doing the same as my short tubes in my gen.(will try to post that here somehow).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqgQv4yRHcA&context=C381fd40ADOEgsToPDskJiK3GIaH-6TZm397gUuLpm
I need to learn not to leave the videos listed as "from my phone". Sorry for the side views for videos, not my doing!

[Left-handed individual]

I bought some stainless steel tie wire.. about 30 ft. Of it at ace hardware.. home depot(place were I work) sells it too. I was thinking on grounding the same as you are.. if i start the genny 1 minute before I start my car it will either struggle to start or kill the battery. Could also be my battery going bad or a bad ground on my alternator to begin with. Hopefully I will have this in my car within a week.. I've been very busy and will be even more busy in the weeks to come.

All i know is this thing works.. and a little trial and error never hurt nobody..... right?
LOL

[Madsceintist]

Depends on the error ! Sounds like the battery is going down hill, but you shouldn't start the gen unless the cars running, or you have a safety solenoid to hold back the HHO from the intake.. SAFETY..... OR...
Unless your running your timing to A.T.C. to begin with, you'll likely get a backfire. A backfire can be an error that's not pretty.

[847563]

Regarding the brown water issues mentioned, has anyone experimented with real gold electrodes for electrolysis. Does anyone know whether that will stop the formation of deposits or not.

[BioFarmer93]

Regarding the brown water issues mentioned, has anyone experimented with real gold electrodes for electrolysis. Does anyone know whether that will stop the formation of deposits or not.

GOLD?:eek:
LOL! And we thought nickel200 was too expensive... No, I don't think you'll find anyone on this forum that has gold electrodes..:rolleyes:

[myoldyourgold]

At USD 1733 per oz I think I will make a 56 plate reactor. What you think Gus? Should I go with 18 gauge or 16 gauge? LOL Maybe plated Titanium or Nickel or......LOL I would suggest Rhodium I think it is the best. :D

[BioFarmer93]

At USD 1733 per oz I think I will make a 56 plate reactor. What you think Gus? Should I go with 18 gauge or 16 gauge? LOL Maybe plated Titanium or Nickel or......LOL I would suggest Rhodium I think it is the best. :D

Carter, I'm thinking 16ga. and a 12x8 format, 'cause you know what they say- GO BIG OR GO HOME!! LOLOLOL!!:D:D:D

[aceras624]

Its a shame DIAMONDS dont conduct electricity :(

On an ACTUAL note, whats with all the stainless steel wire?!? doesnt SS have a higher resistance than copper?? so More heat, less effective electrical flow plus the possibility of arcing?!!?? am I missing something here????

[lhazleton]

Who the hell uses S/S wire????????????

[Left-handed individual]

I havent heard of anyone using S/S wire... Guess ill be the first. Some people say it should work fine some say it shoudnt work so well with what sounds like reasonable data to back that up but since no one has tried it ill put it to the test.

Now I have no volt or amp meter I'm just an average guy with a simple wet cell design. I figure since the plates are S/S why not the whole wiring? No way I can tell how much amps its drawing other than to lick both my fingers and put one the + and one on the -.:D

I'll give it a go I purchased the wire already so what the heck, although I do appreciate any info on why I should fail in due case I do so I can know what most likely went wrong.

Don't worry guys my car will be the lab rat on this one.;)

And Madscientist it is my battery giving out. confirmed that a few hours ago.:cool:

[BioFarmer93]

I havent heard of anyone using S/S wire... Guess ill be the first. Some people say it should work fine some say it shoudnt work so well with what sounds like reasonable data to back that up but since no one has tried it ill put it to the test.

Now I have no volt or amp meter I'm just an average guy with a simple wet cell design. I figure since the plates are S/S why not the whole wiring? No way I can tell how much amps its drawing other than to lick both my fingers and put one the + and one on the -.:D

I'll give it a go I purchased the wire already so what the heck, although I do appreciate any info on why I should fail in due case I do so I can know what most likely went wrong.

Don't worry guys my car will be the lab rat on this one.;)

And Madscientist it is my battery giving out. confirmed that a few hours ago.:cool:

Use copper wire up to the point just before things start getting wet. No copper in the electrolyte, and no SS used as conductor getting to the unit. Personally I'd put the SS wire on eBay & try to get a little money back on it to use for plates, but hey, that's me... Have fun.;)

[847563]

Well actually I was thinking of using 24k gold leaf used for gilding. It's not that expensive and I want to see if i can eliminate the maintenance that would be required from SS deposits.

[myoldyourgold]

Will not work and is not made out of gold.

[847563]

Some sheets are, those that can be eaten are gold & these were the ones I was intending to use.

To the other members that responded sarcastically, I was hoping for some serious responses. Ultimately, I want to electroplate some large surface areas with gold, so your jokes about large gold electrodes are in fact spot on. I have already made a wet cell with SS wire so I am capable of manufacturing whatever I want. I was asking, hoping to draw from other people's experience. Not sure if I've joined the right forum now.

[myoldyourgold]

Some sheets are, those that can be eaten are gold & these were the ones I was intending to use.

To the other members that responded sarcastically, I was hoping for some serious responses. Ultimately, I want to electroplate some large surface areas with gold, so your jokes about large gold electrodes are in fact spot on. I have already made a wet cell with SS wire so I am capable of manufacturing whatever I want. I was asking, hoping to draw from other people's experience. Not sure if I've joined the right forum now.

Well your wire reactor gives you some credibility. That is one I have never built. :D Now electroplating of gold on some base metal I guess is what you are going to attempt. It is going to have to be something very exotic because the electrolysis process will just strip off the gold from at least one electrode. Is this going to be a unipolar reactor or a bipolar reactor? Are you going to have the same voltage across the new reactor cell or cells as the wire reactor? Well electroplating of gold is not really my expertise so give it a try and report back. I am always willing to learn something new. I think if you do some research on the forum you will find what happens when you electroplate a surface and then use it as an electrode. I guess if it dose not work you can always eat it. Now that is just a joke do not do that!! Good luck wire man you might find something that will work. Only the ones that try have a chance of succeeding and if it doesn't try something different.

[Left-handed individual]

847563 I say go for it man. Give it a shot and see how it works out for you. What didnt work out for one person might work for another.. never really know till you try it for yourself and see results first hand.

Biofarmer93 I appreciate that advice. I started out using copper all the way into the cell directly to the S/S plates and instantly saw corrossion and discoloration from the copper. It makes sense that S/S all the way down might not be such a good idea, and although i really apreciate the advice against doing it that way I figure ill just try it out.. if it doesn't work out ill just simply and easily switch back to copper.

I'm almost done making my whole thing air tight. I'm using automotive silicone to seal it up.. looking good so far. I estimate that my cell will produce no more than 3/4L per minute based on the previous test run.. but given design ill be more than happy with that.
I haven't heard of anyone trying gasket based silicone as an adhesive so ill give it a shot. I'll post results here after a day of driving with it installed.

[BioFarmer93]

Some sheets are, those that can be eaten are gold & these were the ones I was intending to use.

To the other members that responded sarcastically, I was hoping for some serious responses. Ultimately, I want to electroplate some large surface areas with gold, so your jokes about large gold electrodes are in fact spot on. I have already made a wet cell with SS wire so I am capable of manufacturing whatever I want. I was asking, hoping to draw from other people's experience. Not sure if I've joined the right forum now.

Maybe you did join the wrong forum. Do you actually think that gold has not been tried before? Do you you really believe that we're all just idiots for using stainless steel? Don't you think we'd all be using nickel200 if we could afford it? Have you bothered to read back in the archives to find out what happens to electroplated metals when exposed to electrolysis in caustic or acidic environments? Well? There's a damm (sp) good reason it's not done.
By the way, fabricating a wire wet cell in no way qualifies you to "manufacture whatever I want" In any event, the sarcasm you received was mild and humorous, and essentially nothing compared to how we razz each other here. If your skin is that thin then you might want to pack up your delicate ego and hit the old digital highway.
On the other hand, if you can take the heat then you might find that good things are cooking in the kitchen, it's up to you- hope you weren't waiting on an apology...:cool:

[Left-handed individual]

I had found myself having some free time today so I decided to get this S/S wiring out the way. I gave it a shot today and it still worked decently well. I compared copper wire and S/S wire (both the same gauge) using only tap water and then with 1 tbsp of lye then with 2. My results showed that on either occassion there was a bit more productivity using the copper rather than stainless steel.. confirming what many said. The difference wasn't much.. but given the fact that you want these things running for long periods of time the gap in production using S/S wire will make a big difference.

Well.. got that doubt out of my head. about the arking... I don't know too much about that but from what I saw it can still get the job done just not as good.

Getting back to the real subject here... This brown sludge.. is it really a product of the actual electrolosys process itself? As in will it be produced by the use of water only or only when you use an electrolyte.. or both?

I would like to know because maintenance will be a great issue with my current design.

[847563]

No apology required, I've been insulted by experts !

[aceras624]

I had found myself having some free time today so I decided to get this S/S wiring out the way. I gave it a shot today and it still worked decently well. I compared copper wire and S/S wire (both the same gauge) using only tap water and then with 1 tbsp of lye then with 2. My results showed that on either occassion there was a bit more productivity using the copper rather than stainless steel.. confirming what many said. The difference wasn't much.. but given the fact that you want these things running for long periods of time the gap in production using S/S wire will make a big difference.

Well.. got that doubt out of my head. about the arking... I don't know too much about that but from what I saw it can still get the job done just not as good.

Getting back to the real subject here... This brown sludge.. is it really a product of the actual electrolosys process itself? As in will it be produced by the use of water only or only when you use an electrolyte.. or both?

I would like to know because maintenance will be a great issue with my current design.

STOP WASTING TIME WITH A WET CELL!!!! go dry cell ASAP!

[Madsceintist]

I compared copper wire and S/S wire (both the same gauge) using only tap water and then with 1 tbsp of lye then with 2. My results showed that on either occassion there was a bit more productivity using the copper rather than stainless steel.. confirming what many said. The difference wasn't much.. but given the fact that you want these things running for long periods of time the gap in production using S/S wire will make a big difference.

Getting back to the real subject here... This brown sludge.. is it really a product of the actual electrolosys process itself? As in will it be produced by the use of water only or only when you use an electrolyte.. or both?



I'm missing something about what you said. Your using copper inside the cell with the stainless ?? Or just to the cell. You shouldn't have anything but stainless in the cell !

Yes the brown sludge is due to the Electrolysis of water ! Tap, distilled, or any form of water, without electrolytes. I've tested them all ! The best way that I've prevented getting sludge was boiling distilled water with a speaker magnet held in the water while boiling. Poured it through a coffee filter and then ran it for 2 days with my gen in it, Next to nothing from the water, where as everything else was showing sludge. I think the distilled water from Walmart is probably not truly distilled. I cant comment on whether or not a dry cell creates the same effect but i would think it should.

[aceras624]

I'm missing something about what you said. Your using copper inside the cell with the stainless ?? Or just to the cell. You shouldn't have anything but stainless in the cell !

Yes the brown sludge is due to the Electrolysis of water ! Tap, distilled, or any form of water, without electrolytes. I've tested them all ! The best way that I've prevented getting sludge was boiling distilled water with a speaker magnet held in the water while boiling. Poured it through a coffee filter and then ran it for 2 days with my gen in it, Next to nothing from the water, where as everything else was showing sludge. I think the distilled water from Walmart is probably not truly distilled. I cant comment on whether or not a dry cell creates the same effect but i would think it should.

Just stick with DRY CELL, Distilled water (they are ALL the same) with NaOH or KOH, and high grade low carbon stainless. The sludge is from the ferrous metals degrading so 316L is most commonly used with best results.

dont bother with the copper vs stainless test. Copper bad, stainless good :)

[Left-handed individual]

@madscientist no I was using my stainless steel plates inside the generator and trying out copper vs S/S steel as the connection from the outside of the generator to the power supply. Although I must say in my very first days of experimenting with HHO I did use copper wire inside the water connected to two S/S kitchen knives just to see if this had potential and wasnt gonna be a hoax and waste of my time. I saw bubbles building up instantly but I also noticed that the copper seemed to be disintegrating and slowly decipating itself all over the water effectively changing its color. All this from the negative.
After learning a bit more I realized what was happening and why not to use copper underwater for electrolysis.

I will try and do the same process you did to try and void some of that Brown sludge. I have no computer to upload pics of my cell... and my stupid smart phone can't do it.. ill try the PS3 next. But my cell is quite delicate when it comes to rinsing it out. I can never open it again.. its kind of a one time use when you consider the presence of Brown sludge and having to clean it out. The best I can think of is rinsing it off with a hose through the fill plug the best I can and keep on keeping on.

I know and understand how and why a dry cell is safer and more efficient.. but they are a bit more complicated to build and will begin working on one once I have this one and another one installed and running on my car. Since I can make this type of cell and design very easily and quickly ill just make another before I attempt to make a dry cell which we all know are not as simple as the wet cells.

Now this Brown sludge.. is there a specific, proper word for it or is it currently just known as Brown sludge? Excuse the lack of Intel I haven't looked much into the history of this thing just know what's going on today.:cool:

[BioFarmer93]

The scientific name for it is "muckus unaccountablis"

[Left-handed individual]

LOL. Quite a sense of humor you got there. That's pretty Daam creative too.

[Madsceintist]

The brown sludge is (some say from the stainless) its actually the contaminants in the water AND whats left on the metals. Electrolyzing water releases H2, O1, and any other contaminants that are in the WATER, creating heavy water. This sludge is known to have hexa-valiant-chromium as a by product. Look up heavy water.
Quoted; [[ On Earth, deuterated water, HDO, occurs naturally in regular water at a proportion of about 1 molecule in 3200. This means that 1 in 6400 hydrogen atoms is deuterium, which is 1 part in 3200 by weight (hydrogen weight). The HDO may be separated from regular water by distillation or electrolysis and also by various chemical exchange processes, all of which exploit a kinetic isotope effect. ]]
Above is to reduce your search or reading all day.
It seems as if you continue to use the same water without losing any over long periods of time, the water becomes more apt to produce better and more H2 simply by interaction of the molecules.
Just try not to play with or dump the sludge where pets can get to it.

The sludge does stop after the waters cleaned of CONTAMINANTS !

[Left-handed individual]

Very interesting fact. I talked about my cell producing this redish substance a while back.. I thought it was either too much electrolyte and the excess energy burned it.. or galvanized wire underwater. well i took care of both of those problems and still noticed it being created after only a few hours of running the cell.

Can this be the Brown sludge? It has a redish brown color and does have sludge like properties but not knowing much about it I wonder if it can be created that quickly or if it takes much longer than that and this is something else.

As of now I dont have the means to measure voltage going into my cell... Don't know if its pulling too much but it makes at least 3/4L per minute when working at its peak which exceeds what it was created and expected to do.

Had some minor issues with gas leakage.. this lunch box plastic is no good... It expands and is affected by the pressure of the gas building up... Silicone might not do the job.. I put 3x as much and will test it out hopefully tomorrow.

Another quick question... When production of HHO is going well... the steady flow and production should effectively push whatever water is in the hose inside the bubbler down until eventually you have a steady flow of bubbles coming out of it. My cell was doing good but then the bubbles stopped coming out. I turned it off and the water level inside the hose which is inside the bubbler equalized with the rest of the water in the bubbler. When I Turned it back on the gas pushed the water level half way down but then staid there. At first I thought something went wrong with the plates or wiring.. turns out it was leaking gas from the generator so it lost the pressure it needed to keep forcing the gas through the bubbler. This gave me an idea... Which leads to the question... Has anyone here heard or thought about using some sort of pump to aid the cars vaccum in taking in more of the gas or would this cause too much stress and on the whole system and cause water from the cell to flow to the bubbler or vise versa?

[hhofox]

People have used pumps. They may respond to you soon after this. The reator must be constructed in such a manner that it can handle the vacuum pressure if such a setup is to be used. I had a lot of trouble with this when I used to make the water4gas wet cells -which they said should be attached between the PCV valve and the Intake manifold. I thought of using some sort of control -something as simple as a lock-off should do- to regulate the pressure, but never go around to doing it.
Let me know what you decide to do, and the results.

Btw... you need to get a meter to read the voltages, and the amperage in order to start tuning you reactor more precisely.

[Madsceintist]

Very interesting fact. I talked about my cell producing this redish substance a while back.. I thought it was either too much electrolyte and the excess energy burned it.. or galvanized wire underwater. well i took care of both of those problems and still noticed it being created after only a few hours of running the cell.

Can this be the Brown sludge? It has a redish brown color and does have sludge like properties but not knowing much about it I wonder if it can be created that quickly or if it takes much longer than that and this is something else.

A; Doesn't take long at all, only true distilled water solves the problem! But you still have the cleaning process for the stainless.



Had some minor issues with gas leakage.. this lunch box plastic is no good... It expands and is affected by the pressure of the gas building up... Silicone might not do the job.. I put 3x as much and will test it out hopefully tomorrow.

A; You need 1/4- 3/8 inch thick minimum plastic (various types), HDPE or cpvc type to solve both leaks from vacuum or pressure. Be it pumped or not.

Another quick question... When production of HHO is going well... the steady flow and production should effectively push whatever water is in the hose inside the bubbler down until eventually you have a steady flow of bubbles coming out of it. My cell was doing good but then the bubbles stopped coming out. I turned it off and the water level inside the hose which is inside the bubbler equalized with the rest of the water in the bubbler. When I Turned it back on the gas pushed the water level half way down but then staid there. At first I thought something went wrong with the plates or wiring.. turns out it was leaking gas from the generator so it lost the pressure it needed to keep forcing the gas through the bubbler. This gave me an idea... Which leads to the question... Has anyone here heard or thought about using some sort of pump to aid the cars vaccum in taking in more of the gas or would this cause too much stress and on the whole system and cause water from the cell to flow to the bubbler or vise versa?

A; If your cell, lines and bubbler are sealed tight then you would not need to think about the pump idea. I use a pump to supply my cell with cool fresh water so as my production isn't interfered with (frees up the metal from bubbles quite quickly, seems to produce more). Its not to pump the HHO to the engine, vacuum does just fine.

[Madsceintist]

By the way, you should know whats going to and thru you generator. I bought my volt meter and amp meter from Summit Racing. As well as my digital volt meter from Grainger. You can get them cheaper other places but I'm a Tech/Mech so i need quality.

[Left-handed individual]

Okay... So i put 3x as much silicone in my cell to seal it up and it got the job done. No leaks at all. Everything is running smooth now so I'm thinking there might not be a need for a pump after all. Vacuum is doing just fine as stated by the Madscientist. If I grt around to building my next cell soon I might use a fish air pump and see if I can get that to work... It would be nice to feed the intake with more if the good stuff than its trying to take in.

I'm producing about 3/4L of HHO and i definitely notice an increase in power(equivalent to a good tune-upwhen past due). Unfortunately my odometer doesn't work so measuring gas milage is a bit difficult but I have noticed q slight increase... Between 2-3 more Mpg. I want and need more out of this but this is a good start.

My engine size is 4.6L... Can anyone tell me what's the minimum HHO litters per minute required to really make a difference on this engine?

By the way.. the Brown sludge.. is there currently any known good use for this? Can it serve a purpose like be used to make a certain substance or compinche or chemical reaction or up to this point is it just junk?

[myoldyourgold]

It could be a toxic substance so dispose and handle with car. Without testing you can not say it is but it could be.

[Madsceintist]

Any way you can post a pic of this unit ? Sounds a little much with the silly-con.:eek: Honestly if I need to use a sealer I like windsheild butale. Small amounts and you can almost break your parts before the sealer.

A TEST......... With gloves, take that brown muk and put in a flat dish. Let dry, then add to a small plant(potted plant as in isolated). In a week or so or month, see if the plants alive or not. If dead, then i'd say its safe to say that its most likely toxic! If to plants then definitely to us.
* Of course take care of the plant as normal!

As far as the pump idea, unless you produce more then 5 lpm and can pressurize and intend on not using gas, you wont have a need for pumping to the intake. Seriously. Vacuum alone will do all you need. Just matters where you insert the feed. The size line, vacuum source area, and NO vacuum leaks are important. Most carburetors, throttle bodys have ported vacuum outlets for various things; vacuum advance, dashpots, servos, solenoids, ehr (exhaust heat riser), ETC. . So you can do what most do and tap into a large vacuum line with a tee or tap into a ported smaller line that is only operational as you apply the accelerator such as the advance to the distributor.

[Left-handed individual]

Sorry for the late reply. As of now I can't post any pics..having ttouble uploading them.so far I've had it running for almost a month.. it was doing good.. seeing Gaines of 2-4 mpg and a noticeable increase in throtle response. Now it is definitely brown water.. and due to me not securing it in place as I should have it nearly fell of during a bumpy ride.. im gonna open it up.. clean it up.. and keep on keeping on.

I'm gonna take your advice and use what you recommended to seal it up.. i only used silicone cause I had plenty of that stuff laying around... But its not as effective as it should be.

I've been trying to find a thread for cleaning and conditioning stainless steel.. I could really brush up on some of that knowledge.

I'll do that test with a plant.. I can get one for a few cents at home depot since I'm a cashier and am always hooking everyone up. Sure enough I sealed up all leaks and eliminated any need for a pump.. thinking about doing that T thing cause as of now I plug in The hose where the bypass hose runs through. I don't know the proper name.. but i think it recycles some of the exhaust back into the Intake.. thats what I was told but when I clog it with my finger for about 10 seconds it has a negative vaccine of its own. Either way I re route that one to face the radiator fan incase it is drawing air and plug in the HHO hose where that one should go and have been seeing results.

-NOTE; we all know that HHO is produced on demand... At first mine wasn't like that. I have a 30 amp relay I salvaged of a power wheel and for a while that was it. No fuse or switch. I had to open the hood to turn it off or on. Then I put a switch and noticed that's when it started producing more as the rpm rose. I figured it was the need of the fuse.. my switch is acting as w fuse I guess cause its 20 amps. Before I would accelerate and production was the same.. after adding the switch it started working like a real HHO booster should.
Is this really simply the work of the switch? I have made no other adjustments.

[hhofox]

Hmmm... It sounds like things are getting better for you -happy to hear that!
To cut back on/eliminate the brown water, be sure to used distilled water and not exceed .5amps per sq inch of your plates. I have been told that you should not exceed .25amps per sq inch if the plates are not 316L.

The conditioning info is here on this forum. Just use the search feature and you will be in business.

It seems like you are saying that you used a T between the PCV valve and Intake Manifold. That will get you results, but can put too much pressure on your reactor and bubbler. I'd regulate it with some sort of lock-off, if I were you.


Also, it seems like you left something disconnected. You said you turned it towards the radiator fan. Please explain that a bit more. The switch and relay bit is a bit hazy too...or is it just me?

[aceras624]

Sorry for the late reply. As of now I can't post any pics..having ttouble uploading them.so far I've had it running for almost a month.. it was doing good.. seeing Gaines of 2-4 mpg and a noticeable increase in throtle response. Now it is definitely brown water.. and due to me not securing it in place as I should have it nearly fell of during a bumpy ride.. im gonna open it up.. clean it up.. and keep on keeping on.

I'm gonna take your advice and use what you recommended to seal it up.. i only used silicone cause I had plenty of that stuff laying around... But its not as effective as it should be.

I've been trying to find a thread for cleaning and conditioning stainless steel.. I could really brush up on some of that knowledge.

I'll do that test with a plant.. I can get one for a few cents at home depot since I'm a cashier and am always hooking everyone up. Sure enough I sealed up all leaks and eliminated any need for a pump.. thinking about doing that T thing cause as of now I plug in The hose where the bypass hose runs through. I don't know the proper name.. but i think it recycles some of the exhaust back into the Intake.. thats what I was told but when I clog it with my finger for about 10 seconds it has a negative vaccine of its own. Either way I re route that one to face the radiator fan incase it is drawing air and plug in the HHO hose where that one should go and have been seeing results.

-NOTE; we all know that HHO is produced on demand... At first mine wasn't like that. I have a 30 amp relay I salvaged of a power wheel and for a while that was it. No fuse or switch. I had to open the hood to turn it off or on. Then I put a switch and noticed that's when it started producing more as the rpm rose. I figured it was the need of the fuse.. my switch is acting as w fuse I guess cause its 20 amps. Before I would accelerate and production was the same.. after adding the switch it started working like a real HHO booster should.
Is this really simply the work of the switch? I have made no other adjustments.

are you saying you steal from home depot????

also if youre seeing MORE production apon acceleration, youre alternator is the problem. It needs higher revs to maintain voltage which increases your production

[Left-handed individual]

-hhofox. Thanks sure was making some good progress there. How can you tell if you have 316L stainless steel? And excuse my ignorance my expertise has never been anywhere close to this but is that a purity level or thickness of the piece of steel?
No I haven't used any T.. and I will be buying a cold air intake which has an extra port in which I can connect the hose from the HHO withought changing or replacing anything else.. its perfect.
What I was talking about I believe only applies to fuel-injected vehicles. On the intake of my particular car there are two hose or lines connected to it. 1 is for the idle air control valve which is connected to the throttle body. The other one connects from the intake to the opposite side of the engine into the valve cover. Daam it I wish I could upload pics.
So what I did here since I didn't connect a T onto this hose (which is plastic not rubber) or anything else is I just simply removed it from the intake and turned it to face the front of the car towards the fan. Its either a bypass re-routing some air to the oxygen sensors... Or recycling exhaust back into the intake. By the way not all fuel-injected vehicles have that.

About the relay this is how it was primarily set up.
First off the negative was directly connected from the battery to the cell.. directly.
The positive went from the battery to what I 'believe' (not to to sure anymore) to h a 30 amp relay. I know its 30 amps and its a little square black box with two wires coming out. It doesn't specify if its an amp or relay but I would connect a 30 amp fuse and it'll always blow.. I blew 3.. one when the cell was cold one when warm and one when at the max. This is still working till this day.
So I had it like this and wether the rpm be 650 or 5000 production was the same... Or slightly barely better but pretty much the same.

Then I left the negative the same... And added the switch to the positive.
I now have the positive set up from the battery to the 'relay' and from there to a 20 amp switch.. then directly to the cell. That's it. after simply adding the switch between the 'relay' and the cell it started producing more gas as the rpm rose.
Most beautiful thing I ever saw.:D
I hope this helps you understand what's going on under my car's hood better.


-aceras624. No I do not steal from home depot I'm a cashier and a Daam honest one too. Whenever the store marks down items we can simply give each other heads up to purchase them for a cheap price before some customers do. As a matter of fact I found a 100 dollar bill today and did the right thing and turned it in to bookkeeping. Besides.. there are high quality cameras that literally see everything and home depot will prosecute. I already have a record and grew up in a gang I've been there done that I'm turning over a new leaf... Slowly but surely.

Anyway my alternator is good. It has been In the same condition since I bought the car a little more than a year ago and I'm sure it didnt break or get fixed up in 1 hour which is how long it took me to simply add the switch and not have any contact with the alternator.

4.6L fuel injected V8 and seeing noticeable gains in power and a few Mpg at producing only 1/2L of HHO at idle. Now that production speeds up with rpm I don't know how that will affect mpg and performance... but for Now my cell is out of commission until I repair it.
(please excuse any typos.. small smart phone keyboard... too lazy to go back up and correct all the errors):cool:

[Left-handed individual]

By the way I use no map enhancer or PWM or any other add on.