Fuse Problem

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Hi Guys
well due to the fact that the winter weather has come i increased the amount of electrolyte in system (dry cell) so i added pot/hydrox until a reading of 1.21 was seen on hydrometer, I turned on the system and it was producing lots of HHO for about 5 mins then meltdown.:mad: pwm & amp meter are now in the bin....so i did a rewire with just a relay,fuse & a switch but no joy it just keeps popping the 30amp fuse :mad: so it looks like its going to be a drain down and add some distilled water (to weaken the mix).....so how can i stop it freezing without the recomended 28% :confused:.
How others have managed to run a 28% electrolyte is a puzzle to me

[myoldyourgold]

Hi Guys
well due to the fact that the winter weather has come i increased the amount of electrolyte in system (dry cell) so i added pot/hydrox until a reading of 1.21 was seen on hydrometer, I turned on the system and it was producing lots of HHO for about 5 mins then meltdown. pwm & amp meter are now in the bin....so i did a rewire with just a relay,fuse & a switch but no joy it just keeps popping the 30amp fuse so it looks like its going to be a drain down and add some distilled water (to weaken the mix).....so how can i stop it freezing without the recomended 28% .
How others have managed to run a 28% electrolyte is a puzzle to me

To run full strength in your setup you will have to use a PWM. The only other alternative is to add more stacks to get the amps down to below your fuse and where the heat is right. I use a PWM only in the winter.

[myoldyourgold]

T Man your PWM must be turned up to high or not working. It could have burned out if you did not turn it down when you increased the electrolyte to max. Test the PWM again. They are easy to burn out. Hopefully the fuse protected it.

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Thanks for the reply...,,,.... just found this big PWM on ebay.......http://www.ebay.com/itm/PWM-HHO-water4gas-Generators-12V-24V-CONSTANT-80A-/110581898836?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19bf31de54#ht_3022wt_905 looks like it would handle some power:confused:

[myoldyourgold]

T man any of the pwm's that require a fan are still classified as fragile and cheap. The really good ones cost $400 plus and range from 200 amps to 800 amps. Here is one but not set up exactly for HHO.

http://www.alltraxinc.com/Products_AXE.html



Here is another cheap one that if you keep in under the 50 amps works OK based on what I have heard but is still fragile and cheap. I have not tested it but will.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/170705565207?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Well i had an hour spare today so did some erm erm erm rewiring .......put in a 40a inline fuse and drained the header tank then filled with distilled water.....all went well then zzzzzzzzzzzzzzaaaaaap fuse gone :eek: so put the fuse up to 60amp and let it rip.......all ok and no fuse popping but live cable did get hot so switched off.....now its time to search the dustbin for my PWM that i put in the bin (fish pongs after a day or )......anyhow did a test on PWM and its all ok :D so put it back into the system (30amp fuse).....ok so turned the PWM to zero and just tuned to just get the cell running and im happy to say it has ran all afternoon :D

[myoldyourgold]

Well that is a step forward. What concentration is it run at?

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Hi
the Electrolyte is @ 11.36%....and all is well :confused: i hope

[myoldyourgold]

T Man, I think I know what your problem is. If you have a 21 plate that is set up like this-NNNN+NNNN-NNNN+NNNN- Then you have 2.76 volts per cell/plate. This will tend to draw a lot more amps than a 22 plate or 19 plate configuration. So when you go full strength it will exceed you PWM's range and blow a fuse etc. You need to add one plate and go to -NNNNNN+NNNNNN-NNNNNN+ this will cut the voltage down to 1.97 volts and solve all your problems. You will most likely be able to run full strength and stay with in the limits of the PWM. What size are the plates and how thick are the gaskets?

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Hi
Its a multi cell Made out of 316L stainless steel plates Quad 7 plate design, a total of 28 plates configured +NN-NN+ :)

This is the exact cell here http://www.ebay.com/itm/HHO-Hydrogen-Generator-Full-KIT-VADA-MAX1400-Dry-cell-/190491050621?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item2c5a26c27d

[myoldyourgold]

Ok that is even worse. This will not work with full strength electrolyte. 4.6 volts per cell/pair/plate. The amps are split by 2. 4 groups of 7 plates each +NN-NN+. They must be in series?? If you changed each group to -NNNNN+ and wired the groups in series (4 stacks) you would bring the voltage down to 2.3 and divide the amps by 4 and be able to run full strength electrolyte in the winter and make much better gas in the summer. The gas production will go down but moisture is all that is going down. This will show you that in some cases when the MMW goes down it is a good thing. It is not how much gas but volume of moisture in the gas that distorts the MMW's. A very poor reactor could have a 12 MMW but be producing mostly moisture. You might not be able to even see the moisture.

It might not be physically practical to make the suggested changes with that design. I suspect you are way over driving the plates. .5 amps max per square inch of active area. How big is each disk and how wide is the gaskets or are they O rings?

The reason this design requires a cooling coil is because it is being over driven wasting energy in making heat and not the most efficient reactor. Make sure you are using a very good bubbler system or your throttle body and other components will get eaten up. It shows some interesting design thought on the makers part and maybe with some changes be OK.

[TRANSIT_MAN]

The reason this design requires a cooling coil is because it is being over driven wasting energy in making heat and not the most efficient reactor. Make sure you are using a very good bubbler system or your throttle body and other components will get eaten up. It shows some interesting design thought on the makers part and maybe with some changes be OK.[/QUOTE]

The bubbler im using is the one that came with the kit ? Im looking to buy another 3 cells but after reading your reply it wont be from this company.Could you recommend anyone who could build me some cells that can run full strength electrolyte ? all cells are going on the same model trucks with 2.5 direct injection non turbo diesels :( as im confused.com :confused:

[myoldyourgold]

T Man you are putting me on the spot. It is impossible for me to test all reactors made and most if not all have some design flaws even though they are minor based on what I have tested. There is a lot of information on this forum that tells you exactly what a good reactor will be composed of. I would look for one that has all or most of them or the one lacking the least. I think I posted a list at one time necessary features. My memory is not as good as it should be and the volume of information is so much I am not going to try and remember it all. I will look for the list though. Maybe some one else will remember and post a link.

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Thank you :D