Need to find out O2 sensor type for Civic 2007+

[Lone Maverick]

Hi,

I need to find out what type of o2 sensor needed for Civic 2007+ models. Can someone please tell?

Thanks

[Quebecker]

Hi,

I need to find out what type of o2 sensor needed for Civic 2007+ models. Can someone please tell?

Thanks

Before catalyser: Wideband sensor (AF sensor)
After catalyser: Narrowband sensor (O2 sensor)

[Lone Maverick]

Before catalyser: Wideband sensor (AF sensor)
After catalyser: Narrowband sensor (O2 sensor)

Cool! Thanks. This means I'd need wide-band EFIE enhancer, right?

[Quebecker]

Cool! Thanks. This means I'd need wide-band EFIE enhancer, right?

YEs

With this car (civic 2004), my best fuel economy was only 10%
I try 2 differents wideband EFIE, one Apexi Neo

Fuel economy does not profit on your investment

[Lone Maverick]

YEs

With this car (civic 2004), my best fuel economy was only 10%
I try 2 differents wideband EFIE, one Apexi Neo

Fuel economy does not profit on your investment

I know, its not an easy task to improve performance in terms of fuel savings by using HHO. I am still struggling with it after spending over 4 months of continuous efforts.

This is for sure that the sellers can say anything to sell their products, so its better to be clam and do research and comparison between different products. I have done lot of things from HHO to electronics in the car but so far no improvements. Also, when I use MAFe, I notice my engine is knocking when I put more acceleration, not a good sign!!!

I've tried performance chip, manual MAFe, digital MAFe and now I've ordered the complete tuning system from:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WIDEBAND-EFIE-AFR-Contol-HHO-Hydrogen-Generator-Cell-/260808255435?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cb96227cb

My theory is:

You cannot just control one sensor in the car and expect great results. you have to lower down readings from all sensors in proportion to accommodate HHO injection. If you change only one sensor, you will end up having low performance, no fuel saving and also having lot of DTCs and CEL!!! When I use MAFe, I get 170, 171 and sometimes 300DTCs and get engine light after 5-10 minutes of driving. Even so, you MUST NOT start HHO and electronic sensor enhancers until your car is warm (coolant temp above 120F/ 50C). This is for sure that performance chips will NEVER produce better results than enhancing all sensors (IAT, CTS, o2, MAF/ MAP).

You must select a proper design and efficient one to produce HHO, bigger doesn't mean its always good. Better find something which produces more gas for less amps/ volts. I am planning to run HHO reactor with 110v (with very less electrolyte) and then see its behavior, if its successful, we can put volt up-convertor and use high volt with less amps instead of keeping low volts with high amps (after all its about running electrons through water to decompose it into BG-HHO)

The BG-HHO is very sensitive to distance and temperature, better keep it warm and fresh while injecting it into air-intake (keep shortest possible distance). I installed HHO in my trunk, though I can still see 1LPM with 35Amps but I am not happy with it, I suspect its dissolved or lost within 16ft of hose running from trunk into engine. Also, putting 35 Amps on car is not good, and this is why when I am idling, I see amps/ volts going down to 18Amps from 35. Ideally the HHO system should put load on car where the volts are not changed much from idling to running condition (max 10-20% change)

The works of HHO in engine is literally seem-less and transparent like the gas itself. If you want to see immediate results, the only way is to use scan tool and see the sensor readings yourself (of course after you tune all sensors). Also, the real benefit of HHO with tweaks can only be gained through highway driving, when driving on streets, the engine demand of HHO goes higher than its production (depending upon RPM) so we should not expect much results on street driving (especially in Toronto during peak hours!!!!)

About electrolyte, using just KOH or NaOH may not be the only best solution, we better find a mixture of different chemicals to produce more gas for less amps, if less amps then overall performance and life of HHO system is better! Of course sellers of such electrolyte will never tell you composition of their chemical, otherwise they would be doing odd-jobs for living :)

If you have guys have different theory/ findings, please share!

[myoldyourgold]

Lone Maverick, I hate to tell you this but the 101 tuning center that does exactly as it was designed to do does have a problem which in cold climates is a real problem in starting and until the engine warms up. To solve this problem I would suggest using a manual switch to only divert the signal to the controller after warmup. In other words you want the stock single to go to the ECU and only change the signal after warm up. Everything else will work as designed. This does not show up as a problem in warmer climates as much but in my opinion is a flawed design but was a requested feature which I would have disagree with. The manufacture designed this EFIE especially and per the specs of the seller. I still am recommending this unit because there is no better out there that does what this unit is capable of and it is well built. This modification you will have to do yourself which will require you always switching after warm up and not the best solution. I would return the unit and it will be corrected for no charge. You can PM me if you need further information. In my testing of the unit this is the only thing I have found so far as a negative. I will have a full report when I am fished testing.

[Lone Maverick]

Lone Maverick, I hate to tell you this but the 101 tuning center that does exactly as it was designed to do does have a problem which in cold climates is a real problem in starting and until the engine warms up. To solve this problem I would suggest using a manual switch to only divert the signal to the controller after warmup. In other words you want the stock single to go to the ECU and only change the signal after warm up. Everything else will work as designed. This does not show up as a problem in warmer climates as much but in my opinion is a flawed design but was a requested feature which I would have disagree with. The manufacture designed this EFIE especially and per the specs of the seller. I still am recommending this unit because there is no better out there that does what this unit is capable of and it is well built. This modification you will have to do yourself which will require you always switching after warm up and not the best solution. I would return the unit and it will be corrected for no charge. You can PM me if you need further information. In my testing of the unit this is the only thing I have found so far as a negative. I will have a full report when I am fished testing.

Thanks for your suggestion. The one I ordered has a thermal switch in it, which triggers the device only if the engine temperature rises to 120F. Also, I will switch it through my master switch for HHO, so when HHO is turned off, this device will be off too and thus by-passing all the tweaks on sensors (MAFe and EFIE). This is exactly how the MAFe, I currently have, works, I've switched it through my HHO master switch, so I turn it on only after I see temp gauge going close to mid.

I am noticing that if I just turn the MAFe on and keep HHO off, I see gains in mileage. This means HHO is telling o2 that there is still a lot of oxygen and this is why ECU is again trying to add more fuel to compensate the 170DTC issue.

[myoldyourgold]

Thanks for your suggestion. The one I ordered has a thermal switch in it, which triggers the device only if the engine temperature rises to 120F. Also, I will switch it through my master switch for HHO, so when HHO is turned off, this device will be off too and thus by-passing all the tweaks on sensors (MAFe and EFIE). This is exactly how the MAFe, I currently have, works, I've switched it through my HHO master switch, so I turn it on only after I see temp gauge going close to mid.

I am noticing that if I just turn the MAFe on and keep HHO off, I see gains in mileage. This means HHO is telling o2 that there is still a lot of oxygen and this is why ECU is again trying to add more fuel to compensate the 170DTC issue.

I might not have made it clear but the 101 tuning center does not turn the MAP/MAF portion on or off with the thermal switch. It is always on. That is the problem. If it did turn on and off with the thermal switch, it would be OK, but that is not what is happening. I am sending mine back to the manufacture to get it corrected. The switch I was thinking about would be a separate switch on the MAP/MAF signal wires. 1 position would be a pass through (Stock) the other position would allow the signal to go through the 101 tuning center and then to the ECU. This is a 3 connector two position switch. It has terminal A, B, and C. Each position connects a separate connection. I do not recommend doing this unless you need to get it working right away because sending it back and getting it done right is a much better fix being it will be automatic, and tied to the thermal switch.

[Lone Maverick]

I might not have made it clear but the 101 tuning center does not turn the MAP/MAF portion on or off with the thermal switch. It is always on. That is the problem. If it did turn on and off with the thermal switch, it would be OK, but that is not what is happening. I am sending mine back to the manufacture to get it corrected. The switch I was thinking about would be a separate switch on the MAP/MAF signal wires. 1 position would be a pass through (Stock) the other position would allow the signal to go through the 101 tuning center and then to the ECU. This is a 3 connector two position switch. It has terminal A, B, and C. Each position connects a separate connection. I do not recommend doing this unless you need to get it working right away because sending it back and getting it done right is a much better fix being it will be automatic, and tied to the thermal switch.

I see, so who is the seller? And did the seller agree to change it? In case if its a design issue, then I will just add a relay to by-pass MAF signal if HHO is not turned on. I've already built a circuit which forces me to press push button every time I start the car. This is to protect battery and alternator if me or my wife forgets to turn off the master switch before shutting the car off. The MAFe I got from HHOKITSDIRECT.com actually bypasses the resistors when its powered off.

Also, what about EFIE, does it by-pass when thermal switch is off?

[myoldyourgold]

This is the unit I am referring to and the seller. I do not promote this seller or any of his other products!! The tuning center other than this flaw is the best available.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2012-MODEL-TUNING-101-AFR-CONTOL-HHO-HYDROGEN-GENERATOR-EFIE-MAF-MAP-IAT-CTS-/250912347681?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6b8a9621

[Lone Maverick]

This is the unit I am referring to and the seller. I do not promote this seller or any of his other products!! The tuning center other than this flaw is the best available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tuning-101-Control-Center-AFR-EFIE-MAF-MAP-CTS-IAT-HHO-Hydrogen-Generators-/260856362010?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cbc40341a

I see... but I am talking about this one I ordered couple of days back:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-MODEL-TUNING-101-AFR-CONTROL-HHO-HYDROGEN-GENERATOR-EFIE-MAF-MAP-IAT-CTS-/250912183358?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6b88143e

It has thermal switch in it which activates device after certain temperature. I agree with the theory Darol Mason explains, however I need to see it in works. I just ordered his HHO kit also, as I am loosing faith in 772 kit I purchased from hhokitsdirect.com, their support is also one of the reasons I want to now stay away from it. The new kit is fairly small and simple, I will be able to install it pretty close to air intake where as for 772, I had to install it in trunk! Its too big to fit in my Corolla 2000.

FYI the link to the kit I purchased is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Most-Efficient-Hydrogen-HHO-Generator-10-Cell-Kit-NEW-/250831665048?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a66bb7798

[myoldyourgold]

I must have edited my post after you read it. I had the wrong link. I doubt you will have to much more success with his kit. I have not tested his system but know some who have and understanding how it works I have problems with it and his claims. I could be wrong and will be very interested you your findings. I agree with the 772 or that design. I believe it will go the route of many others as there are more failures than success. Time will tell.

[Lone Maverick]

I must have edited my post after you read it. I had the wrong link.

Oh no! I bought the same device :(( So if you say there is only one issue which is MAFe starts even if thermal switch is no triggered, then fine. As I told you in my previous post, I will put a relay with HHO switch and will bypass the AFR device for MAF connection, once I turn the HHO on, then I will use AFR. You can also do the same thing. If you can open this device, you can also trace the wiring and connect NPN or PNP transistor to drive relay which will bypass the AFR upon turned off.

[myoldyourgold]

Thanks for the the advice but I want mine to be right from the beginning and am dealing directly with the manufacture because I am reviewing the product and will be posting my review when finished. I have found the manufacture to be very good and I have confidence that the product will be excellent in the end which is more than I can say for the dealer selling it. Darol is OK do not misunderstand me just not my type I guess and I do not agree with his advertising, understanding of HHO and a few other things, but I guess competition forces some of what he does on eBay.