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Bazarommcmullen
05-04-2011, 08:34 AM
I have used Tephlon tape on all my fitting connections. Is this a mistake? Thinking maybe I should have used GOOP or Silicone or something else. Also on my bottom pipe the fittings protrude up into the pipe further than the bottom ID of the pipe. Will this cause my electrolite to settle out and collect in this area? What is the best way to mix the electrolite. Warm or cold water? Or can I simply mix it at room temperature? Also once it is mixed will it stay homogenous or will the Lye settle out of the water in time?

Any other constructive critisism is welcome. Resovoir and bubbler are on the agenda for tonight.

lhazleton
05-04-2011, 08:52 AM
Baz,
What a beautiful build! Hope it works as well as it looks.:)

BioFarmer93
05-04-2011, 11:07 AM
SCHWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!
I am definitely likin' that! It's like HHO porn- LOL! Hey Baz, keep an eye on the other thread I started today about the pos & neg reservoirs- 'cause you're going to have to find a way to get past the current leakage issue with those inlets/outlets (whichever I'm seeing in the photo's) being hooked together like that. I was talking with Larry on the B-C and he seems to think it should work just fine. I'm know that one of you guys is going to be finished before I am, so it'll be up to one of you to test for leakage.

Bazarommcmullen
05-04-2011, 11:27 AM
As I am new to all of this how can I test for leakage? I know one way is to disassemble and inspect plates. What are the downfalls of current leakage I'm assuming wasted energy Amps? How do I know when I have current leakage. I read alot of discussion about current leakage but still I do not know much about it.

Bazarommcmullen
05-04-2011, 11:31 AM
Hey BIO I think you are looking at the build wrong. Those tee'd fittings are all Gas outlets. The inlets are underneath teed the same way. Notice there are two pipes in the last photo. One pipe is inlet water and the other is outlet. This build is based on the drawings that you provided under the thread One unit or two for Diesel.

BioFarmer93
05-04-2011, 12:34 PM
Hey BIO I think you are looking at the build wrong. Those tee'd fittings are all Gas outlets. The inlets are underneath teed the same way. Notice there are two pipes in the last photo. One pipe is inlet water and the other is outlet. This build is based on the drawings that you provided under the thread One unit or two for Diesel.

OK, leakage happens when the current finds a path other than the one we choose for it. The way you have the manifold concept going there is going to leak like crazy, because you are providing a real short and sweet path for it from one side of the divider plates to the other through the fittings that are joined at top and bottom.
As a side note, there is one little detail here that I have to correct you on, the reactor is based on the drawing I provided. The build (which includes associated plumbing) is based ideas and concepts you have developed or aquired along the way from here and other sources.
I'm sure that if you've viewed Larry's and my own unipolar systems, then you've noticed an abundance of reservoirs and bubblers... You have to keep in mind that this stuff is being developed & problem solved in real time- and you, me, Larry, Lee, Carter, Shane, Uno and the rest of us are the epicenter of it. You probably also have noticed in different threads that I and others have said that the unipolar build is a little more complex.
Oh, one thing I think I saw, but can't be sure- a reflection on the top plate in one of your photo's. Didn't you get those media blasted? If not, then start turning those nuts the other way, because you really don't want to build a reactor as nice as yours and not do a proper job on the most important parts!:D

lhazleton
05-04-2011, 03:35 PM
Not to steal away from Baz's thread, but Gus, why are you mentioning me? Looking for a scapegoat when something happens??????:D

As far as media-blasting goes, it seems to be more of a necessity nowadays. I actually just bought a blaster and 44lbs. of #70 Aluminum Oxide this afternoon.This is, of course, all Larry's fault.:eek: Every time I think I'm all set, the S.O.B. comes up with another idea or discovery that costs me money!
Think I'll go back to Mason jars............:D

BioFarmer93
05-04-2011, 03:59 PM
sir, step away from the mason jar.... Now put your hands on some plates...

lhazleton
05-04-2011, 05:11 PM
sir, step away from the mason jar.... Now put your hands on some plates...

LOL, ya sick bastid ;)

keiththevp
05-04-2011, 06:27 PM
That cell looks Bad *** I can't wait to get my new plates ordered.

Bazarommcmullen
05-04-2011, 07:17 PM
Bubbler Pics
3" ID Acrylic
3/4" UHMW end Bells
3/8" Dip Tube with 3/4" Diffuser on bottom.

Bio you are correct in that I did not sandblast the plates. I was in a hurry to dry fit the cells because every other day I find missing hardware and other requirements. Today was the mention of current leakage and media blasting. When I viewed Larry's you tube he tapes the gasket surfaces before media blasting. This looks tedious and time consuming. As well as media blasting alone seems like hours of work. I am definately considering media blasting but still trying to get a functional system with resovoir fittings and bubbler etc. My intent is to disassemble and media blasting on my next available weekend. For the interim I want to get everything up and running. THese cells and systems are not easy to just jump into. Lots of money, time and patients. Also like a treasure hunt finding all of the components such as fittings, gaskets, electronics, etc etc.

keiththevp
05-04-2011, 08:25 PM
The place by me media blasts plates those size for a dollar each. So I would call around, I am sure you can find a local shop that can do it for you, less cost and headache. Just make sure they blast the plates with a small enough grit so that it doesn't end up warping the plates.

H2OPWR
05-05-2011, 01:18 AM
Not to steal away from Baz's thread, but Gus, why are you mentioning me? Looking for a scapegoat when something happens??????:D

As far as media-blasting goes, it seems to be more of a necessity nowadays. I actually just bought a blaster and 44lbs. of #70 Aluminum Oxide this afternoon.This is, of course, all Larry's fault.:eek: Every time I think I'm all set, the S.O.B. comes up with another idea or discovery that costs me money!
Think I'll go back to Mason jars............:D

WTF Lee, Me giving you ideas cost me so much money that I need to take anxioty medicine just to maintain sanity. Next is passivation. You are correct that media blasting is a necessity. It's just not worth the effort to skip that step and it has taken me 2 years to convince everyone except KOYA. **** I just ran out of Xanox.

Larry

lhazleton
05-05-2011, 09:31 AM
LOL Larry. I'll send you some Hydrocodone.:D
I hope to have time today to start blasting some plates. For the passivation, have you found which way is better yet? Electrical or just soaking I mean.

H2OPWR
05-05-2011, 02:37 PM
LOL Larry. I'll send you some Hydrocodone.:D
I hope to have time today to start blasting some plates. For the passivation, have you found which way is better yet? Electrical or just soaking I mean.

Lee, I am going to stick with just regular passivation. Electro-Passivation seems to erode too much when looked at under a microscope. Regular passivation is so simple. 10% Citric Acid and 160 degree hot distilled water for an hour or so. The plates come out nice.

Larry

lhazleton
05-05-2011, 03:23 PM
Thanks Larry. I kinda thought that would be the way to go. I appreciate it!

Bazarommcmullen
05-05-2011, 08:33 PM
Now i need educated again. What is pasivation? I assume it is some kind of plate etching/conditioning after media blasting?

ultra_efficient
05-06-2011, 01:16 AM
nice job. looks very nice. cant wait to get the numbers