cell running hot. real hot

[Hydro newb]

So I built a cell made of 2 inch washers on a nylon bolt with nylon spacers in between them and my current configuration is -nn+nn-nn+nn-. The problem I'm having is that's its running reeaallly hot. Hot enough that I can't keep my hand on the jar.
I was wonderinf if that matters and or how to cool it down, also I'm using tap.water and a teensy bit of lye.

[keiththevp]

Run at least 4 neutrals if not 5 and that will help with the heat

[Hydro newb]

won't that drop a lot of production though? Also i would need a far larger nylon bolt. does anyone know where I could find one long enough to suit that?

[jeffp]

I tried using washers a long time ago. Right now your production is mostly steam. Start reading about dry cells and how to build them. Its much easier and works much better.

[methaneb]

So I built a cell made of 2 inch washers on a nylon bolt with nylon spacers in between them and my current configuration is -nn+nn-nn+nn-. The problem I'm having is that's its running reeaallly hot. Hot enough that I can't keep my hand on the jar.
I was wonderinf if that matters and or how to cool it down, also I'm using tap.water and a teensy bit of lye.

If you only have room for 13 washers, then configure it as: -nnnnn+nnnnn-. If you supplied 12V to this configuration, it would give you essentially 6 cells in each of 2 banks running at 2V each. In your current config, you have 3 cells in each of 4 banks running at 4V each. You only need about 1.75V to generate HHO from water, anything beyond that does nothing but generate more heat.

That said, I would not consider that setup to be viable for anything other than bench testing / exploring HHO. That sort of setup would be quite less than ideal for installation on a vehicle. HHO gas is flammable, and generating that in a glass jar is a grenade waiting to happen. At home testing wet cells, I used plastic, and designed a fail point somehwere in the cell that would release readily in the event of accidental ignition of the gases within the cell.

I hope that helped you some, I am by no means a guru, and someone may even offer a correction to the info I provided, but I hope to have steered you closer to a safer, more efficient cell.

[Hydro newb]

I see what your saying about 2 volts per plate, However more heat breaks surface tension of the water and allows for easier travel of electricity. More free flow = more HHO, no? I'll definitely try it out and see what comes of it. However Why do you think that I shouldn't put this to use in a car? I've so far made 3 cells all of which are in cars and all of which produce less than what my current cell makes and all have had at the very least 10 mpg improvement. I have a 5.0 litre v8 though and the engines I put my other cells on range from a 1.9 litre inline four to a 3.0 v6. Either way I plan on putting this cell to use in my automo-car. No hurt in trying it right?

I can understand the wonderful aspects of dry cells but I am alas broke as sh** so I guess I have to wait. Also I don't understand how people hook up + and - battery cables to a dry cell. If someone could explain that and prefferably take pictures i might understand.

but back to the original point. what degree F* is "too" hot for an hho cell. I will try the -nnnnn+nnnnn- stack and see how it do. What about a -nn-nn+nn-nn-? Any thoughts?

[keiththevp]

Do you use a bubbler?

Do you use a CCPWM?

How long have the cells in the other cars run consistent? (how long are they driving, mins or hours)

Yes heat increases the efficiency of the cell to a point around 130 F BUT your cells are not creating a lot of hho, you just think they are. They are creating a lot of STEAM or WATER VAPOR and if left unchecked they will over heat and cause serious problems.

As far as what could it hurt ... You could be making dangerous Hexavalant Chromium, destroying your vehicles electrical system, corroding the aluminium parts in your engine, and depending on improper installation risking blowing up your engine's intake manifold.