Billyba here.... Found a link!!!!

[billyba]

I was surfing and found a link for a new thread. OK here goes! First off, if one of the masters would kindly go to mileageshop.com , and walk through the site and tell me what you think I would be ever so grateful. That being said here goes.
I have a '96 F-250 7.3 powerstroke, with 260,000 miles on it. It is a work truck and I often tow a 6x12 enclosed trailer loaded with tools. I also tow a 30' travel trailer with it. When it's working I get 9.5 or so, when I'm just cruising around town mileage goes up to 15-16. I've been looking at several different units (A few on E-bay kinda look promising) and the one mentioned above claims not to need a PWM or anything else. Anyway if this unit puts out enough gas (3.5-4 ltrs) to make a noticeable difference in my mileage, I would be walking on air. Any constructive comments, or friendly advice would be welcomed with open arms. I've done some reading at this forum and people here are really quite understanding, helpful, and quite friendly. I can't imagine the number of times you guys repeat yourselves with questions that are asked over and over again. Anyway thanks in advance for any and all help that may come my way!!!

[BioFarmer93]

Billy,
They're a bunch of liars. They said in the video that their units make between 3 to 4 lpm at 15 to 20 amps... Bullspit.
On their site I read that they spend "hours per plate" crosshatch sanding with 36 grit. More BS, besides, media blasting has been shown to be far superior to crosshatch sanding for creating more surface area. Once you know how many amps you're willing to devote to a reactor, designing it is a piece of cake. Before I go further though, you really ought to look into chipping your engine for the economy gains right there. Also, at 266k, you need to evaluate your turbo condition (unless it's been recently replaced or rebuilt) and check VERY carefully for boost leaks. Your mileage sounded a little on the low side for a powerstroke, that is unless you're under 35 years old.... You know, when the self control starts to kick in a little bit! LOL! Seriously though, are you on the original injectors? I know they are RIDICULOUSLY expensive on a PS. I can put 8 fresh injectors in my pre-PS 7.3 for the price of one of yours... Just don't seem fair, does it?

[lhazleton]

Maybe this will help. What is see on there website is:
1) No info concerning the reactors construction
2) They're nice enough to sell a $7 ammeter for $30
3) You can even get a whole 4oz bottle of KOH for the low, low price of only $10. KOH is usually around five bucks a pound. These guys are willing to sell it for $40 per pound.
Are you beginning to see a pattern?
They're charging ridiculous prices and they don't even give any specifics about the product.

[lhazleton]

WTF????????????
Damnit Gus, I was just posting and ya beat me to it by a moment!:D
Looks like we're on the same page though, scumbucketwise, that is..;)

[BioFarmer93]

Lee,
You know what really gets me about those guys? they hide everything in a black box... I'm thinking wet cell...

[lhazleton]

That'd be my guess. I hate these rip-off's.......

[billyba]

Thank you guys so much for the input. That thing 'bout grinding the plates for hours raised a flag to me also, hitting the plate with a grinder with some 36D on it takes about 5 seconds. I really appreciate all of your input, and have another one to look at if you gentlemen would be so kind. Go to E-bay type in 150593829453 and it will take you to another dry cell. THANKS AGAIN for all the invaluable input here guys, I really do appreciate it.

[lhazleton]

That system looks MUCH better, except for the PWM. It looks like the first one I bought years ago, and is nothing more than a motor controller. At least the plates are 18ga. 316L and it comes from Minnesota, not China!

[billyba]

That is encouraging. What type of PWM do ya recommend then, a ccpwm? Can you give me some specific's. We are having some really poopy weather over here. (Sherman Tx) Major rain, tornado watch, hi-speed winds. right on

[lhazleton]

Any ZFF copy will work as long as it's a 50+amp CCPWM and not just a PWM.
A Constant Current Pulse Width Modulator will keep the amp draw where you set it regardless of electrolyte/plate temperatures. They also have a frequency control and will pulse a square wave.
A regular, cheapo PWM is usually just a DC motor controller with a single mosfet and will only limit the draw within a certain temp. range and pulses a sine wave.
There are a few people in here that build nice units, just look around. Shane Jackson can build the ultimate model, but it depends on if he has the time or not.
The qiuckest, easiest way would most likely find a ZFF knock-off on Ebay.
I don't know this builder, but this one looks fine: http://cgi.ebay.com/150A-12VDC-CCPWM-HHO-v2-1H-ZFF-Zero-Fossil-Fuel-Design-/290555965948?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a67c31fc