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View Full Version : 1.3 LPM @ 25amps no PWM......



R&D4me
03-28-2011, 07:03 PM
So, today I put together a friends 11 tuber (1"outer /3/4" inner sep. w/orings) and it produced 0.8LPM or 800mL per minute. All that work, and it draws 30+ amps. the tubes are 6" long, what am I missing here?

My own after 400 miles I decided to pop the cap and check it out..... MUD. It had stopped it's decent production, so I thought it was time to check it. After a wash (or just rinsing the garbage out & the MUD I will dispose of properly FYI.) I filled with a gallon of Distilled & 1.25 teasp. of KOH.... wow, it produced 1.3 LPM @ 25amps w/no PWM and temp after 30minutes seemed to stablize at 105*......

This particular design is 3x -nn+nn- lowes plates in a drain tube "T".

Should I scrap it? or am I looking OK....

input please. on both, Thnx!
:o

R&D4me
03-28-2011, 07:11 PM
Question is the MUD. Why? it came out like chocolate soup....

Hint: I ran it on baking soda for about first 100miles until my order of KOH came, then rinsed and 30 minutes on the bench twice each time changing the distilled and KOH. Then, fresh mix and 400 miles to mud soup...lol :rolleyes:

lhazleton
03-28-2011, 11:26 PM
Lots of things wrong here:
It's a wet cell.
Only 2 neutrals per stack.
Mud is from over-amping & cheap steel. Iron and other crap is leaching from the steel.

R&D4me
03-29-2011, 02:33 AM
Lots of things wrong here:
It's a wet cell.
Only 2 neutrals per stack.
Mud is from over-amping & cheap steel. Iron and other crap is leaching from the steel.
yup. Dang, so much for the Lowe's silver plate specials.... ooOOooOOohh well. More neutrals has just ended up with less amp draw, and less output; suprisingly, no steam.... temp. 105* tops from 1/2 hour on the bench-when in the car I'll park after a trip and check it w/my hand too.

I have been meaning to ask You, where I could find plans for your dry cell? In your sig., you have approx. the same vehicle as me - and the right amount of output I'm looking for.
Could you help me out? I'm looking to not spend anymore since now I know it works. Furthermore, you've gone through what I have yet to and wish not to..... if you get my drift.

You: 1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
12 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW

Me: 1993 Explorer 4x2, 4.0L
7cell x3 mud-maker, Have PWM (Waiting for the right cell to use it with) MAF adjuster (Works great!); Dual EFIE's 1.3LPM of iron vapor ;)

R&D4me
03-29-2011, 02:39 AM
As for the 11 tuber "mini-Meyers" replica..... it still looks good on the shelf!

lhazleton
03-29-2011, 02:58 PM
I have been meaning to ask You, where I could find plans for your dry cell? In your sig., you have approx. the same vehicle as me - and the right amount of output I'm looking for.


I don't have any plans for my reactor. It's just a basic drycell design, -NNNNN+NNNNN-. Plates are 6x9 304 .025". 2 3/8" inlets & 2 3/8"outlets. Gaskets are made from the 'pond liner' they sell at Home Depot for about $10. Endplates are 1/2" HDPE with 1/8" steel backing.
BTW, Ford ECU's are futhermuckers to get around.:mad: If you use a MAF enhancer, be very careful. Not only will you get a MIL easily, the exhaust temps. can shoot up rapidly if you don't monitor them. Get an EGT gauge.

R&D4me
03-29-2011, 04:37 PM
I don't have any plans for my reactor. It's just a basic drycell design, -NNNNN+NNNNN-. Plates are 6x9 304 .025". 2 3/8" inlets & 2 3/8"outlets. Gaskets are made from the 'pond liner' they sell at Home Depot for about $10. Endplates are 1/2" HDPE with 1/8" steel backing.
BTW, Ford ECU's are futhermuckers to get around.:mad: If you use a MAF enhancer, be very careful. Not only will you get a MIL easily, the exhaust temps. can shoot up rapidly if you don't monitor them. Get an EGT gauge.
I lucky ...pre-'96 so its OBD-1. Built the MAF myself and adjust by the dual O2 gauge you see in my avatar. OBD-II IS more difficult. (Sensitive) But, for me its worth the hastle!

Thanks for the plans... I can take it from here. Should I use .025'? or go with thinner 316L...? and (Sorry, last question) what do you mean by 28%KOH? whats it equate to in measuring [koh flakes] to a gallon of distilled?

R&D4me
03-29-2011, 04:38 PM
EGT coming soon.... ;)

lhazleton
03-30-2011, 01:54 PM
Should I use .025'? or go with thinner 316L...? and (Sorry, last question) what do you mean by 28%KOH? whats it equate to in measuring [koh flakes] to a gallon of distilled?

I used .025" 304 merely for the price. The reactor I'm using was originally just for testing purposes (well over a year ago). You'd be better off using 18ga. 316L. The heavier stock will cause less resistance.
For a 28% KOH mix, it depends on the purity of the flakes. 92% pure is approximately 3lbs. per gallon of water. For precise measurements, use a battery hydrometer and adjust the mix until it reaches 1.275 on the scale. Anything over 28% will start do decrease the electrolyte conductivity.

R&D4me
03-30-2011, 03:56 PM
Awesome thanks! I made the adjustment (With goggles and gloves and vinigar handy ;) )to half that today probably around 12% (Since I have such fewer "N" plates) and I had to kick the PWM's duty cycle way down....nice! I will take that advice and order the 316L [wow 18gauge] tomorrow.

Cheers