I'm new here, please be easy on me. :)

[TrafficTrader]

Hello everyone,

My name is Kelly Donner and I trying to hook up my 98 Saturn with a double dry cell system... I have everything connected and I have taken it a maiden voyage and Im not happy with my results.
http://www.get100mpg.com/images/sm1.jpg

I run a double gen with a volo chip, I have a switch and amp meter on my dash. I use KOH, 2 tbsp per quart of distilled water. I'm drawing 30-33 amps with this mixture. I placed over 150 miles (highway) on my test and I have not filled it up to see exact gallons used but the gas gauge is setting about the same on a 150 mile trip.
http://www.get100mpg.com/images/sm2.jpg

Was expecting at least a 10mpg increase if not double my mileage on this 30mpg car.

http://www.get100mpg.com/images/sm3.jpg

I had issues on my vacuum side drawing to much air, it was collapsing my lines and sucking the bubbler inwards. I place a value to restrict airflow.

The manufacturer stated the drop is very important for making HHO 12-20 inches..... I called another one with the same design and they said as long as the reservoir was above it don't matter on the drop distance. (I'm about 2-3inches on the drop). I need feedback on this one.

also after my test I checked the temp of the reservoir and I got 150 degrees f.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Thank you.

[lhazleton]

Kelly,
You're going to have to post a butt-load more information.
What's a "double drycell system"? Is it 2 separate drycell reactors?
How is each reactor set up? If you're only using 2 tbsp, KOH per quart (most of us use 3/4 POUND per qt) and it's drawing over 30 amps., somethings not right. How many neutrals per stack & how many stacks?
Why is it hooked up to vacuum? It should go before the throttle body.
What the hell is a 'drop distance'?
With the high temperature & low electrolyte percentage, it sounds like you have very few neutrals. Each stack, at minimum, should be set up like this:
+NNNNN-.

[TrafficTrader]

Thank you for the reply..... reading the forum I see you are one of the Guru's, again TY.

I'm running a hydroclubusa.com double cell setup (2 seperate cells) -NNN+NNN-

"The Drop" the distance from the reservoir to the cell, they want 12-20 inches. I only have 2-3. still don't understand that.

I have them in hooked up in parallel. (both intakes are going the the bottom center outlet of the reservoir, both outlets are going to the bottom side inlet.) I have 2 outlets on the top of the reservoir, one going to the vacuum side PVC value and the other going into the air intake side
http://www.get100mpg.com/images/sm4.jpg

3/4 of a pound of KOH?????


What would be the best way to get this setup running?

Kelly

[TrafficTrader]

I did a search here for hydroclubusa, I guess I didn't do my home work soon enough..... :(

Looks like I need to add a more neutrals?

[lhazleton]

Kelly,
Unfortunately, those reactors are friggi'n tiny. What are the plate dimensions? Also, having only 3 neutrals per stack is making more steam than anything. At 13.8vdc average, each cell is receiving 3.45 volts. Way too high! You need a minimum of 5 neutrals per stack. That would give you 2.76 volts. 6 would be better at 1.97 volts per cell.
The only way to get this right would be to add 3 more neutral plates per stack. So, you'll need 12 more so that each reactor is configured like this: -NNNNNN+NNNNNN-. Or, remove 2 plates from each reactor so that each is -NNNNNN+. Either way, you'll need to increase the KOH content a hell of a lot.
However you decide to do it is up to you, but either way get rid of the vacuum hookup. It's just stupid. Vacuum is created only during idle and braking, the times that HHO is useless. Plumb both to your intake.
The height of the reservoir makes no difference.
Another thing that would help would be if we knew what size engine you have. The standard rule of thumb for figuring out what reactor configuration to run is 1LPM (liter per minute) of actual gas output per liter of engine displacement.
I know by now I'm just making you about the happiest person in here, but there's more......The acrylic that the endplates are made of is gonna start cracking where the holes are drilled for the fittings.:(

[TrafficTrader]

it's a 98 Saturn 1.9 liter twin cam 5 speed.

Thank you for the honesty.

It almost sounds like it would be easier to get a new generator?

Who runs the best for the best price?

[lhazleton]

We all just build our own.
For your motor, you'll need only 1LPM output, so that's not bad. You should be able to get that by redoing the ones you have. What are the plate dimensions and what style are the gaskets? It looks like the plates a 4"x4" with round gaskets. Is this correct?

[TrafficTrader]

Yes, that is correct...

Thank you for your help.

[lhazleton]

OK, try this first: Rather than tossing this setup, try changing things a bit on each reactor. Remove the nuts from the bolts & take out the first 2 plates (1 neg. & 1 neutral). Take the pos. plate & put it where the 1st neg. plate was. Now each unit will be +NNNNN-. With both reactors set like this, you should be able to get the proper amount of production. Of course, you need to increase the KOH percentage. Since you don't have a CCPWM and are running brute force, you should start with what you already have & keep adding KOH until you get it where it should be. With such small plates, I wouldn't go over 15 amps. There is only 12.56 sq.in. of active plate area per reactor.

[TrafficTrader]

Over 15 amps, is that for each cell or total for both?


Thank you for the redesign

[lhazleton]

Both. You don't want to go over 0.50 amps per sq.in. of active surface area.
With 4" round gaskets, one side of one plate is 12.56 sq.in. of space containing electrolyte.

[TrafficTrader]

Redesign is done and hooked back up, I increased the KOH Mix. I'm reading 15 amps steady, 100 degrees in the reservoir..... I'm getting ready to test it now.... I got the car at operating temp and I reset my volo chip...


Any idea where I might be as for output? and or improved mileage? I was getting 30mpg.


Thanks

[lhazleton]

OK, what you should do is make a eudiometer so you can measure the amount of gas the system is putting out so it can be adjusted for maximum efficiency.
Did you re-route the gas hoses? How is the reactor getting its power? I think you had mentioned a switch. If so, that's a bad idea.
As far as the FS2 goes, you have to remember that it takes about 125 miles to gather all necessary info to route the proper maps. IF it works at all. Patience is important.

[TrafficTrader]

eudiometer???? If you had to build one how would you build your's? :)

Yes I took off the Vacuum lead....
Power is connected where Battery is connected to the Fuse Box. Hope that made sense.

All the electrical was done by a GM Skilled Trades Electrician that worked on building harnesses and computer connection trouble shooter for all the proto type cars. He retired a few years ago, He now works for a 3rd party that is in the Battery Car Industry.... You said a switch is bad? The instruction in the video and docs call for 30 amps draw, for continuous draw of 30 amps we when to a heavy gauge which lead us to the cut off switch, we couldn't find a ignition lead that could handle that load. All connections are crimped and sodder.

55 mile trip my reservoir temp was 90 degrees 15 amps steady

+nnnnn- +nnnnn-

Thank you again......

[Bhart]

[QUOTE=lhazleton;43272]Kelly,

Another thing that would help would be if we knew what size engine you have. The standard rule of thumb for figuring out what reactor configuration to run is 1LPM (liter per minute) of actual gas output per liter of engine displacement.

Lee, shouldn't that be .5 LPM per 1 liter of engine displacement.

[lhazleton]

DUH!!! Thanks! Guess I should've checked what I was writing, huh?
Thanks for noticing, Bhart.
Kelly, make that .5 LPM per liter!

[lhazleton]

As far as the wiring goes, you can't have everything powered by a simple on/off switch. At some point, you'll forget to turn it off. When this happens, for even a few seconds, a lot of damage is gonna occur when you turn the ignition on. Power should come from the battery via a continuous duty solenoid. The solenoid should be turned on by connecting it to the oil pressure sending unit. By doing so, the reactor will run only when the engine is actually running. Of course, you still want to incorporate a main switch in case you want to keep everything off for any reason.

[TrafficTrader]

When I rebuilt the cells per your instructions I noticed some black burn marks on the plates with in the o-ring spacers.... then after the new set up was complete I noticed my water got some black floaties in it. I flushed the system and started fresh... That was using the OEM specs to run the system.

I used a 500ml water bottle to measure output.... took 50 secs to fill.

As for the switch..... Start the car before I turn on the system till I can add the solenoid???

As for the spacing on the plates, what would be an ideal width for them? Rebuilding the system I made sure they were airtight but I didn't know spacing distance.....

in one of your first messages to me you talk about a -nnnnnn+ setup but the next message you suggested a -nnnnn+ which is what I set them up as..... Im tying to figure out how to increase my out put of HHO...

Thank you lhazleton's

Kelly

[myoldyourgold]

You need an input port / balance port at the bottom of each plate. This should be a hole smaller (1/2 the size) than the exit port at the top and be offset on each plate. What is happening in your reactor is when it is not running if fills up with electrolyte and then when it runs, the electrolyte is pumped out with the gas lowering the level in each cell. This creates excess heat also. The center cells will be the worst. By adding the input ports you will keep the liquid equal in each cell and allow for flow to take place. A thermosyphon takes place and liquid electrolyte comes in from the bottom and goes out the top with the gas. This helps move the bubbles and of course cools the reactor. As it is now you are only using a small part of your plates (the low water mark) making it an inefficient reactor.

The black that you are seeing around the exit port is where there is excessive current leakage. To avoid current leakage you need to insulate these holes with Weldon 16. In order to make this stick on you will need to sand blast the area around the holes. You can also see the low water mark where it is darker at the bottom. The high water mark is at the top and is also visible. It is not so dark because it is only that high for a very short time. You want the color of the plates to be the same from top to bottom when you get everything right.

[lhazleton]

Kelly,
As Carter is saying, having gas holes only just won't work!
Each plate must have a hole for the electrolyte to pass through. These must be staggered. For instance, 1st plate hole at 5 O'clock, 2nd plate at 7 O'clock, 3rd at 5, 4th at 7, etc..
Additionally, you need to have tubing running from the bottom of the reservoir to each side of the reactors endplates (bottom). Top ports=gas out, bottom ports=electrolyte in.

[Bhart]

After you make the modifications suggested to you, if you don't get enough gas production you might add a third stack.
+nnnnn-nnnnn+nnnnn-

[TrafficTrader]

Thanks on the bottom holes.....

As for the other questions?

The switch, Don't turn on the unit unless the car is running, correct?

and the distance between the plates, should there be a certain distance????

Thank again (both of you)

[myoldyourgold]

Thanks on the bottom holes.....

As for the other questions?

The switch, Don't turn on the unit unless the car is running, correct?

and the distance between the plates, should there be a certain distance????

Thank again (both of you)

Switch.... Yes you are correct do not turn on the switch until the engine is running and has started to warm up at least on computer controlled fuel injection ( 1 minute is about right). There is a number of ways to automate this but the cheapest way is just a switch that is wired through the ignition. When the ignition is off the switch can not be turned on !!! and when the ignition is turned off the reactor goes off. (Ignition on the reactor can be turned on with the ignition off the reactor cannot be turned on!!) Lee can attest to what happens if it is left on by accident LOL!!! This is still not fool proof because you can run the reactor with the ignition on and the engine not running!!

Distance between plates.... there is a number of theories about this is what I use based on my testing but does not apply across the board because of so many types of plate designs, plate preparation, and the all unipolar designs. That said you can experiment with my rules. On reactors with less than 12 square inches of active area on one side of one plate 1/6 inch thick gasket. On reactors with more than 12 square inches of active area on one side of one plate 1/8 inches. Regardless of the reactive surface area if the gas has to travel more than 6 inches to get out then you need 1/8 inch gaskets.

Methods of automating the on off, I suggest you do a search on this forum and you will find some of them. It is my opinion that at idle there is no need to be running the reactor at all especially in computer controlled fuel injected engines. The main reason behind this is to help the O2 censor not to richen the air fuel ratio, when not using an EFIE and to get better mpg because of the less drag on the alternator when it is not necessary.

To keep the post short and not having the time to go into details I am not explaining the reasons why the different thickness of gasket material but there are good reasons to why at least to me and as stated does not always apply depending on a number of things.

[Kromb-Tech]

Hey Kelly,

My name is Paul and I'm brand new to this Forum. I'm learning how to navigate. The question I have is how I could place a thread out there for everyone to read and make a comment on if they wish to?

Thanks in advance. Let me know if you receive this mailing.

Paul

[TrafficTrader]

Hey Kelly,

My name is Paul and I'm brand new to this Forum. I'm learning how to navigate. The question I have is how I could place a thread out there for everyone to read and make a comment on if they wish to?

Thanks in advance. Let me know if you receive this mailing.

Paul

If you want to start a new thread in this section of the forum then use this link. http://www.hhoforums.com/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=6

Or go to the section you want to post into and click the New Thread button on the left side of your screen.

[lhazleton]

Thanks on the bottom holes.....

As for the other questions?

The switch, Don't turn on the unit unless the car is running, correct?

and the distance between the plates, should there be a certain distance????

Thank again (both of you)

If you don't wire the system to the oil pressure sending unit, this can happen. It only takes a moment. I'm really posting this for Carters amusement (he loves my screw-ups):D

[TrafficTrader]

All of your suggestion have been great but I have restriction that does not allow me to implement all of them.

I disassembled the units, doing so the black soot was worse. During that test my amps did go to 20-25.

I drilled holes (alittle smaller than the top) at 5 & 7 o'clock positions and reassembled. I could not place any more inlet ports because of space. plus I do not have a sand blaster so I could not blast the holes.

After I drilled I did file down any burs on the new holes plus I used a very fine steal wool to clean the black off of the plates.

I place my solution, and tested the units. I was running 20-25 amps again, I dolooted my solution by 25%, still running same amps. I dolooted it again by 25% with the same results. I cut the solution by half and my amps are coming down....

I believe the extra holes are causing me to change my KOH percentage.

Temps on the cells about 87-92degrees, bubbler same....

I'll test tomorrow going to work and back (60miles).

Ok..... Whats the best way to build a meter to measure the gas flow or volume. Or are their any out there that can be bought for a reasonable price ie. $20?

Again thank you for your input.....

Kelly

[TrafficTrader]

Couldn't wait.... Went on a small run, amp running 15 steady.... gas gauge looks like it is dropping normally....

Ihazleton, you told me this a few replies ago.


Kelly,
Unfortunately, those reactors are friggi'n tiny. What are the plate dimensions? Also, having only 3 neutrals per stack is making more steam than anything. At 13.8vdc average, each cell is receiving 3.45 volts. Way too high! You need a minimum of 5 neutrals per stack. That would give you 2.76 volts. 6 would be better at 1.97 volts per cell.
The only way to get this right would be to add 3 more neutral plates per stack. So, you'll need 12 more so that each reactor is configured like this: -NNNNNN+NNNNNN-. Or, remove 2 plates from each reactor so that each is -NNNNNN+. Either way, you'll need to increase the KOH content a hell of a lot.

Would adding 12 plates increase my production?

Kelly

[Bhart]

I have a crude but effective way of measuring HHO. I fill a five gallon bucket 3/4 full of water, take a one litter plastic bottle and fill it with water. Turn plastic bottle upside down in the bucket of water making sure no water escapes from bottle. Place gas tubing from HHO system into plastic bottle neck. Now time how long it takes for the HHO gas to fill up the bottle and the first bubble to escape from bottle and that will give you a good idea on how much production you have. liter/min.

[TrafficTrader]

I have a crude but effective way of measuring HHO. I fill a five gallon bucket 3/4 full of water, take a one litter plastic bottle and fill it with water. Turn plastic bottle upside down in the bucket of water making sure no water escapes from bottle. Place gas tubing from HHO system into plastic bottle neck. Now time how long it takes for the HHO gas to fill up the bottle and the first bubble to escape from bottle and that will give you a good idea on how much production you have. liter/min.

Basically I did that with a 500ml bottle took over 45 sec to fill

[TrafficTrader]

I made quite a few changes, plate config, KOH mixture, drilled added holes in the plates to increase flow/efficiency. 15 Amps. I have not seen any black soot or black floaties

I have done 1200 miles of testing so far and I can only show at best 3-4 mile gain.
Here are my findings in exle format http://www.gogoosby.com/Saturn.rar

Conclusion is that I'm not making enough HHO.


In one of my replies from lhazleton, it was suggest a possible config could be -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- adding 6 more neutrals. I'm willing to go this route and have set up to secure these added plates (12). It would be greatly appreciated for any feedback on how to expand the units I have to get me on my way. Or maybe a PWM is the next step..


Thank you, everyone.

[koya1893]

My apologies if I missed it. What size is the engine you are trying to feed? What were your baseline for mpg before inducing HHO? The 6 bipolar are ideal for long distance driving (like me F-150), but for everyday to and from work 10-20 miles each way or shorter. You will get better result if you run 5 bipolars, you can run 28% mixture, you will need a PWM or start with low mixture and add KOH or NaOH to increas amps until you reach 10-15 amps at cold start.

Can you show us what you plates looks like. The higher you go with bipolar the less the voltage you have between plates. The ideal test and a norm for everyone in here is: 2-2.2 volts between plates, anything less will not produce. So re-think you strategy of driving condition and frequency, then build a cell to meet your needs.

[TrafficTrader]

98 1.9 liter Saturn, twin cam.

here are the plates, this was after my first run
1737
the size of the plates are 3.5in.... I'm running at the present -nnnnn+ -nnnnn+ 15amps. The original setup was -nnn+nnn- -nnn+nnn- at 2tbsp of KOH/pint I was get 30amps...... I have a Volo Chip too installed.

Thank you.

[myoldyourgold]

Your plates tell a story. Your reactor starts in a flood state and then the electrolyte is pushed down/out and the level goes down to the bottom 1/4 or less of the plate. Not good. That bottom part is now the part making HHO not the whole plate. The plates should have the same even color not dark and light etc over the whole plate in a reactor that is operating properly. The darker areas are where your plates are getting over amped making heat that if you control results in less HHO or you end up with thermal runaway making steam. You can see the high electrolyte mark and the low electrolyte mark. You want to only have a high one. Putting the holes in the bottom will help this for sure. The dark around the one port you do have is where you have a lot of current leakage. Weldno 16 applied there after media blasting at least around the hole will solve that problem and needs to be done on the new holes you drill or drilled. Hope this helps.

[lhazleton]

Carter,
While we're on the subject of holes, how ya doin'?:D
Seriously though, I'm going to media blast my plates with 120 A/O (that's all that's used at work). Do you think that will be coarse enough for Weldon 16 to hold around the holes & the adjacent surface area?

[TrafficTrader]

Your plates tell a story. Your reactor starts in a flood state and then the electrolyte is pushed down/out and the level goes down to the bottom 1/4 or less of the plate. Not good. That bottom part is now the part making HHO not the whole plate. The plates should have the same even color not dark and light etc over the whole plate in a reactor that is operating properly. The darker areas are where your plates are getting over amped making heat that if you control results in less HHO or you end up with thermal runaway making steam. You can see the high electrolyte mark and the low electrolyte mark. You want to only have a high one. Putting the holes in the bottom will help this for sure. The dark around the one port you do have is where you have a lot of current leakage. Weldno 16 applied there after media blasting at least around the hole will solve that problem and needs to be done on the new holes you drill or drilled. Hope this helps.

Those plates were on a 9 plate configed -nnn+nnn- with 2 tbsp KOH running 30 amps. I have changed them to a 7 plate config -nnnnn+ now running 15 amps. I haven't seen any black foaties yet. I'm on my second tank testing the config with the added holes.

Weldno 16, That's acrylic cement correct? So I apply it to the holes let it setup and then I sand blast the holes to remove this cement, correct? I just want to make sure I read you right.

I can get this done but It will take awhile to get set up to do. I really like some advise as to my next step to increase hho production such as:

1. increase my config to 15 plate config -nnnnnn+nnnnnn-
running 30 amps??

2. PWM and bumping up my KOH to 28% running 15 amps???

3. Both???

4. or I should do something else?????

Thanks all of you.

[lhazleton]

Kelly,
The Weldon goes on (thin layer) after media blasting.

[myoldyourgold]

Lee before I started to have mine commercially done and was just doing around the holes and the spot opposite the off set input ports I used a $12 hand held spot plaster form Harbor Freight and washed sand from Home Depot. That worked fine. Have no idea what girt that worked out to but I think 120 should work for the weldon 16. (You might as well do the whole plate will not hurt) Weldon 16 is a pain to get right. I have been trying to find an easy way to put it on. I have ended up filling the complete ports and then using a rotary tool to cut out the excess making the ports slightly smaller. The bubbles around the inside edge cause leakage and is very obvious when you tear it down. The leakage spots go jet black. This way there is enough material left on the inside edge that there is much less of chance it will leak. Remember on the input ports the plates being 1/8 or 1/16 apart depending on your gasket requires a larger area to be covered than you think. I put one plate on top of the other with the gasket between the plates and use a sharp needle to mark as big as an area as I can through the hole. I hope that makes some sense. Basically the area is a lot larger than the port size. The loss of surface has not affected the amount of HHO. If the plate goes black around your weldon 16 you did not get a large enough area covered. That is my experience anyway others might have experienced something different. Remember I was using the dental product for a couple years before Larry discovered Weldon 16 and I can not thank him enough because the cost really comes down even though it is pain to put on.

[lhazleton]

Thanks, Carter. I'm gonna give it a try. I just hope it sticks well this time! It works great until it falls off:eek:

Kelly>> didn't mean to infringe on your thread...........

[koya1893]

Lee,

The blasting sand I use to blast mine is "OO" grade. One thing I discovered while applying the Weld 16 so it will spread and goes on thin, I use the handle of a plastic spoon to spread it. Also, using acetone help clean the surface. The last cell I took apart after testing it with the weld 16, it had 5K on it. The weld 16 was still in place, that was applying it around the hole. The other method is: drill the hole big and then cover one side with painting tape, then fill the other side of the hole completely with weld 16. Let that dry, now the hole is completely filled and dry. Take the tape off, then apply weld 16 on the other side. By the time you are done doing this. The hole is complete sealed with weld 16, now take you dremel tool and drill or grid the size hole you like
(7/32). this whole process give you the affect of a grommet around the hole. I got better result doing it that way.

[TrafficTrader]

Ok ok, this good..... specially about Harbor Freight, I was thinking about bring them to work and see if one of my skilled trade buddies could help me out but I like the idea of Harbor Freight better....

I just ordered 12 more plates and o-rings, plus I ordered 45 degree threaded barb fittings to add more input ports on the opposite sides of my cells for better flow... that would give me dual input ports and single exit port or should I go dual in and dual out ports? Room is tight.......

With these added plates any input of plate config to enhance my hho output? -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- or something else?

Thank you

[myoldyourgold]

Your number of plates should be OK. I have a suggestion which you might not be able to do. Your reservoir needs to possibly be higher. Maybe not but I think so. The way I set this up is when the reactor(s) are running I move the reservoir up to find the flooded state while running and then move it down slightly so the level of the electrolyte while the reactor is running is just above the bottom of the exit port (gas port). You have to do this while the reactor is running and the reservoir is full. The problem is the reservoir level goes down so does the level of electrolyte in the reactor. You will have to work a happy medium so you do not have to fill the reservoir so often. It is better to have it to high then to low. The solution is an auto refill to keep the reservoir in the sweet spot all the time by using a float in the reservoir and a separate tank and little electric pump. If the reservoir is to low then you will have very poor performance. If you have to have the reservoir low then you must use a pump to keep the level up and circulate the electrolyte.

[TrafficTrader]

The manufacturer stated a 12-20inch drop or distances from the reservoir to the cells, but I don't have that room, 3-4 inches is all I have and they stated a I might need a pump.
Again I don't think I have enough room to tie in a pump either.

I'm trying to get to a point where I see favorable results so I'm incorrigied to continue. 1200 miles of testing so far 3-4 mpg gain, is it the HHO, is the Volo chip, is it that I'm not driving as hard during testing or is it a combination of the above.

headed to Harbor Freight today to get me a blaster. :)

Thank you.

[TrafficTrader]

Ok, picked up a spot blaster from harbor freight ($19.99)

went to Lowes, no Weld-on 16, picked up 2 types of sand, GP Sand and Fine Sand.... Didn't want to go back so I got both.

I done a search to see who sells Weld-on 16, Amazon is about the only one on the Internet......

I want to make sure I'm reading this right.

I only spot blast the holes, not the whole surface and I only apply the weld-on to the holes, not the whole surface???????


Might go to Home Depot or ACO to see if they have it Weld-on 16....

Thank you again.

[myoldyourgold]

Weld-on 16 is an acrylic cement. It should be sold at stores that sell acrylic. IPS corporation the maker of this product and is located in Compton California. It is not sold in Home Depot or Lows.

Now for blasting I used the spot blaster for just blasting the area around the the ports. About 1/2 inch all around the port. The best thing is to blast the whole plate but I doubt you will be able to do that job with the spot blaster. Sand blasting the area around the ports is to give the Weld-on a rough surface to hang on to. Other wise is just comes right off. You can try and blast the whole plate and see if it is possible.

[Bhart]

I got Weldon-16 at ebay for $17.00 + 7.95 for shipping.
Seller was ROSS BROUGH, his email is:

piperplastics1@yahoo.com

[H2OPWR]

If you live in a decent sized town there will be a plastic shop. They make everything plastic. I buy Weldon 16 locally. I get the large tube for $16.00. Here is another good place to get it. I discovered this quite by accident but it does work wonders when done correctly.

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=132&

Here the large tube can be bought for $7.25

Larry

[Bazarommcmullen]

Does anybody have pictures of the Weldon 16 application on thier plates for reference?

[lhazleton]

Baz,
Go to Larry's You-tube channel. He has a great video about applying the Weldon. The actual application starts at about 3 1/2 minutes in.
http://www.youtube.com/user/HHOPWR#p/u/48/AnOl9d4mPL0

[myoldyourgold]

Here is some of my experiences with Weldon 16. The large tube dries up before you can use all of it unless you are doing hundreds of plates at one time. I buy the small tube in bulk(by the case) and it works out cheaper than the large tube per piece price by just a bit. It flows a lot better if the plates are not to cold or hot. 70ºF seams to be good give or take some. Bubbles do form and can burst with use and create current leakage especially on the inside edge of the ports. Ben uses tape and fills the ports up completely and then uses a rotary tool to re shape them. I do something similar. I use a thin flexible kitchen cutting sheet cut into two pieces to the size I want and tape them onto the plate so the tape does not touch any active surface area only where the gasket will be (3 sides). I fill in all or most of the port on the first side and the Weldon 16 does not stick to this cutting sheet. After everything is dry I flip it over remove the cutting sheet pieces and do the other side. I use a cheap little rotary tool for $6 from Harbor freight and remove the excess material in the center leaving a good margin around the edge both inside the port and outside. I test each plate with an ohm meter and have found spots that look like they are covered (shinny) but because of the media blasting the tips of some of the blasted surface area are not covered and still conduct. I reapply a little to solve this. It drys quite fast and if you try to spread it around as it is drying it will make a real mess. As more people start using it (thank you Larry) maybe we will get some easier ways to apply this stuff. To remove any Bo Bo's use weldon 3 or 4. Acetone also removes it with a little work.

[TrafficTrader]

This is all great stuff.....

I ordered a tube from Amazon today...

As if right now I'm still at 15 amps, I have not seen any black floaties, the water is clean an clear. So the added holes at the bottom of the plates must be allowing extra flow of water, When I'm ready to media blast I'll reinspect the for being scorched.

I also placed an order for 12 neutral plates today, I will modify each one with the changes.

Thank you...

[TrafficTrader]

I have another question on electrolyte.

Since I have been testing for the past 1200 miles I have noticed that when my water level drops from use, I only need to add just distilled water not my KOH Mix to maintain my amp level... When I add my mix my amps go up, is this normal?

Once I get to my level of KOH need to maintain my amps I only need to replace the water I use?

TY

[ultra_efficient]

you know why people keep making threads with title like "im new here please take it easy on me" because this is not a newbie friendly forum. too much jerk offs always trying to bomb rush the new people. i remember my first thread and the way a bunch of a-holes cuss me out and got me banned LOL.

to all the new people that come here please just tip toe and try to avoid the a-holes. if you need any help ask me and if i don't know the answer i will refer you to someone.

take care and don't be discouraged

[koya1893]

I have another question on electrolyte.

Since I have been testing for the past 1200 miles I have noticed that when my water level drops from use, I only need to add just distilled water not my KOH Mix to maintain my amp level... When I add my mix my amps go up, is this normal?

Once I get to my level of KOH need to maintain my amps I only need to replace the water I use?

TY

Traffic,

I was doing the same thing initially, when the reservior or the solution level goes down after 100-150 miles I added the same mixture as my initial mix. yes the amp draw will go up because in a sense you just increased the percentage of KOH per gl of water. It was a good thing my cell were able to handle the amp increase. Then the mentors here pointed me to the right direction.

The standard practice is; fill the servior with your mixture, whether it is 28% or adding until you reach initial amp draw. then when the solution level goes down from usage, just add pure distilled water. Having said that, at some point you will need to add some KOH or NaOH to bring up the mixture. thus far, it is around 1000-1500 miles for my truck.

[ultra_efficient]

Hello everyone,

My name is Kelly Donner and I trying to hook up my 98 Saturn with a double dry cell system... I have everything connected and I have taken it a maiden voyage and Im not happy with my results.
http://www.get100mpg.com/images/sm1.jpg

I run a double gen with a volo chip, I have a switch and amp meter on my dash. I use KOH, 2 tbsp per quart of distilled water. I'm drawing 30-33 amps with this mixture. I placed over 150 miles (highway) on my test and I have not filled it up to see exact gallons used but the gas gauge is setting about the same on a 150 mile trip.
http://www.get100mpg.com/images/sm2.jpg

Was expecting at least a 10mpg increase if not double my mileage on this 30mpg car.

http://www.get100mpg.com/images/sm3.jpg

I had issues on my vacuum side drawing to much air, it was collapsing my lines and sucking the bubbler inwards. I place a value to restrict airflow.

The manufacturer stated the drop is very important for making HHO 12-20 inches..... I called another one with the same design and they said as long as the reservoir was above it don't matter on the drop distance. (I'm about 2-3inches on the drop). I need feedback on this one.

also after my test I checked the temp of the reservoir and I got 150 degrees f.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Thank you.

i have a 2004 Saturn Ion and before my setup i was getting about 20MPG city and 30MPG high way like the factory said i should be getting and now after i added HHO, upgrade to a PMA, re-tuned with a VAFC im now getting 45MPG city and 60MPG high way. forget Volo chip and EFIE they CAN NOT properly tune your car and you leave it at factory setting and you are getting factory result what else were you expecting?

this is my car http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuhqpgSBowg and if you should show this to a tuner who know about cars and tuning, they would tell you its impossible, im a pro tuner and if a few years back someone would have shown me this i would tell them its totally impossible.

also did you see i made a thread with the title "vacuum ready reservoir". im also going to make 2 bubblers today the same way i made that reservoir. then i can start getting a better MPG than 60.

it sounds like you are right on the money you just need to tweak a few things, starting with how you are tuning your car (FORGET about volo chip garbage waste of time and money). use vacuum ready reservoir and blubbers, make sure you are using a HHO gas cleaner and port fully to your vacuum.

[TrafficTrader]

Ultra Thank you

Love the tunes on your video:cool:

I'm taking steps but I'm hoping to walk here real soon. I would love to be where you are at now.

Waiting on parts so I guess it TIME TO EXPERIMENT!

Presently:

I'm running 15 amps steady, my water is clear, it looks like my HHO production is lower. I'm at 260 miles on this tank with basically same readings.

With the extra holes drilled I up my KOH to give me a 25 amp run. On a visual it does look like my HHO output is up. I'll run the tank out and run another. Hopefully I'll get my parts in by then for the rebuild.

Thank you again

[BioFarmer93]

you know why people keep making threads with title like "im new here please take it easy on me" because this is not a newbie friendly forum. too much jerk offs always trying to bomb rush the new people. i remember my first thread and the way a bunch of a-holes cuss me out and got me banned LOL.

to all the new people that come here please just tip toe and try to avoid the a-holes. if you need any help ask me and if i don't know the answer i will refer you to someone.

take care and don't be discouraged

Richard,
I read your entire thread over a year ago before I ever joined. Aside from you using an AFR to good effect and expounding upon the virtues of that device, practically everything else you insisted upon (and still do in some instances) only indicated how messed up your approach was. Now you are encouraging folks to ignore the mentors and PM you for the real deal? Not to mention calling us a-holes & jerk-off's. You might want to remember that you were "cussed out" for being incredibly stubborn and antagonistic about doing things that were already known to be much less than optimum by people that were and still are far ahead of you in this technology.
It is only common sense that dictates that if you don't want the board to turn against you (again), then don't try to turn people against the board, because since you didn't specify which ones of us are the a-holes, one must assume that we're all a-holes, right? That brings to mind a question- why on earth would you want to come back to a board full of a-holes? I mean really... Just to antagonize us with stuff like the post above? There are other HHO boards out on the 'net that would probably just fall all over themselves to have the only guy that knows the really really right way to do this stuff, you could go to one of those and sell your ideas to them, right?
Just to set things straight though, this is very much a newbie friendly forum, for anyone that isn't arrogant and antagonistic and a know-it-all. Please don't forget that I read your entire thread, from start to finish. You brought what happened upon yourself. It's looking like you want to head down that same road again. I imagine that given the rep you have already established here, you should be able to make that trip now in only half the time.

P.S. It's "bum's rush" not "bomb rush".

Take care and don't be discouraged!

[ultra_efficient]

hahaaaa here we go. i didn't say my way is the best or the correct way etc. i just said this is what im doing, and i didn't say don't ask anybody else for help ect, i just said if you want to ask me and question pm me because i might not get to read all the threads and see all the questions.

and how comes only you bomb rushing me? haven't the other guys heard that im back on the forum yet? anyways im not here for the whole cussing out and the big up roar again, i just came here to help people. ill just block all the a-holes and all the people that i don't want to hear from and avoid the whole cussing out and all that drama part. im just here to share what i know with the people who want to know.

[koya1893]

hahaaaa here we go. i didn't say my way is the best or the correct way etc. i just said this is what im doing, and i didn't say don't ask anybody else for help ect, i just said if you want to ask me and question pm me because i might not get to read all the threads and see all the questions.

and how comes only you bomb rushing me? haven't the other guys heard that im back on the forum yet? anyways im not here for the whole cussing out and the big up roar again, i just came here to help people. ill just block all the a-holes and all the people that i don't want to hear from and avoid the whole cussing out and all that drama part. im just here to share what i know with the people who want to know.

Okay, All I would like to know first is where and what vendor you get your VAFC from so I can get one to try out and maybe you can teach me how to use it. All the tuners I know use it differently, your mpg gain are something to reach for. Most of my clients at this point have older cars and don't really want to get a new one just to get 3-8 mpg increase and have a payment. so if I can turn a 12-15 mpg truck to 15-20 city driving I am willing to experiment to get there.

right now with my current knowledge on this process and what I've learned in here and other research and what I have learned to mulnipulate an EFIE, I managed to increase my 09 F-150 2.8-3.5mpg increase. If I can get more show me. I am running a two stack cell -NNNNNN+NNNNNN- it is only drawing 17 amps with 2.5lb NaOH per 1gl of distilled water.

I must admit I do get a bit irritated when a "Newbie" pops in here and ask all sort of questions and expect everyone to hand them the "book of answers" so they can get going without doing anykind of search to find the answer to their basice question. but I've come to realize I was like that when I first started so I learned to mellow out and for an "olde Salty Chief" that's an accomplishment.

The other reason, I do spend a lot of time experimenting on the process so at times it is hard just to share my findings to new guys because I've spent a lot of time and money. I am sure a lot can relate (Mentors), all I do expect from the new guys is do some experimenting on your own with the information already in here.

sorry I didn't mean to "hi jack' this post. May I suggest that you start a new thread focusing on showing us how to use the VAFC for tuning and higher gain. You do that and get everyone in here experience your gain, we will have something for general public to see. After all, as I mentioned we have spent a lot of money just playing around, spend another 100-200 dollars for higher gain. I'm up for it.

[ultra_efficient]

people like you why i stay on here (willing to learn something new) and yes most if not all pro tuners know about the AFC and know that it gives you full control over your air/fuel ratio but ill make a new thread and go over it again like i did back in 2009. and new guy sorry for straying off topic, i will leave your thread now and go start one about the AFC. as you can see not everybody here are friendly and willing to take the time out to help others but as i said if you want any help with anything and scared to ask just pm me i will be more than happy to help you.

[BioFarmer93]

hahaaaa here we go. i didn't say my way is the best or the correct way etc. i just said this is what im doing, and i didn't say don't ask anybody else for help ect, i just said if you want to ask me and question pm me because i might not get to read all the threads and see all the questions.

and how comes only you bomb rushing me? haven't the other guys heard that im back on the forum yet? anyways im not here for the whole cussing out and the big up roar again, i just came here to help people. ill just block all the a-holes and all the people that i don't want to hear from and avoid the whole cussing out and all that drama part. im just here to share what i know with the people who want to know.

You're over 40 posts into your return here Richard, so I'm not bum rushing you am I? Or cussing you for that matter, but I am noticing that you just tried to minimize what you did and explain it away, and completely ignoring the rude way you did it. It's not like we don't notice, OK? It was rude and undermining, and unappreciated so be smart and don't insult the forum. And yes, everyone knows you're back, it's just that I lost the coin toss to have to deal with you this time.

[TrafficTrader]

I value everyone's opinion, and everyone's help. Please stay on topic for me, I'm hoping I'm on the verge of have having my FIRST HHO Experience! Remember went you guys had yours? I want mine to be that good.

Update: Last tank got me 33.75 MPG best so far for City & Highway. That's a 5.3 mpg gain from my lowest base line reading Here my Exel file (http://gogoosby.com/Saturn.rar). Would it be unreasonable to say that a 10mpg gain on a 30mpg car would be easy to obtain with HHO? This would be my HHO Experience, mind you 15 would be better.

I just changed my KOH to run 25amps. I've gone 60 miles so far looks like my water might have a dark tint to it (2 units running -nnnnn+ -nnnnn+ 3.5 inch plates) I also made a stand to hold a 2 liter bottle to test HHO output. I cut the top off the 2ltr and drilled a hole on the bottom to place a 45 degree fitting to run a production hose to it. I took a 500ml and cut the bottom off it to place right side up inside the 2ltr that will be filled with water. I started the car and let it warmed up. I run 2 test all with in 25 seconds to each other. Doubling it give me 1 ltr @ 50 seconds, which is what I need for my 1.9 ltr engine. I keep comiing to the same conclusion, I need a expanded system. I order enough plates to run -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- config, I'm waiting on the Weld-on. I'm hoping with in 5-7 days I'll have some good news....


Everyone, I cherish the help I have gotten from all of you, and I believe in everyone is welcome at my table.

Happy Easter.

[BioFarmer93]

Kelly,
Apologies for the temporary hijack, was just where the offense occurred is all. Back on topic- Your numbers are looking good already, and I think with Richards input on the electronic tuning that a full 10mpg gain is entirely within the do-able range for you. Excellent work so far, and excellent focus. Are we going to see any video? We love video!

[lhazleton]

I'm hoping I'm on the verge of have having my FIRST HHO Experience! Remember went you guys had yours? I want mine to be that good.

Lord Almighty, Kelly! Are you building a reactor or getting laid for the first time?:D?

[koya1893]

Kelly,

Ben here, please accept my apologies as well for hi jacking your thread. Now back your question about 10mpg gain. I actually managed to see that on a Scion TC, from 30 mpg what I consider mix driving condition to 42 mpg. Now that I have a better understanding on the Toyota system, the only way I was able to achieve that was because of the wide band O2 EFIE I was using and able to induce 1.5 lpm. Unfortunately the owner gave the car to her son on the West Coast and she had me take it off because he probably have no idea to maintain it.

What I found with the EFIE I work with, once you set the front O2 (mv) you can get more gain by playing with the rear O2 (265 mv).

[ultra_efficient]

I value everyone's opinion, and everyone's help. Please stay on topic for me, I'm hoping I'm on the verge of have having my FIRST HHO Experience! Remember went you guys had yours? I want mine to be that good.

Update: Last tank got me 33.75 MPG best so far for City & Highway. That's a 5.3 mpg gain from my lowest base line reading Here my Exel file (http://gogoosby.com/Saturn.rar). Would it be unreasonable to say that a 10mpg gain on a 30mpg car would be easy to obtain with HHO? This would be my HHO Experience, mind you 15 would be better.

I just changed my KOH to run 25amps. I've gone 60 miles so far looks like my water might have a dark tint to it (2 units running -nnnnn+ -nnnnn+ 3.5 inch plates) I also made a stand to hold a 2 liter bottle to test HHO output. I cut the top off the 2ltr and drilled a hole on the bottom to place a 45 degree fitting to run a production hose to it. I took a 500ml and cut the bottom off it to place right side up inside the 2ltr that will be filled with water. I started the car and let it warmed up. I run 2 test all with in 25 seconds to each other. Doubling it give me 1 ltr @ 50 seconds, which is what I need for my 1.9 ltr engine. I keep comiing to the same conclusion, I need a expanded system. I order enough plates to run -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- config, I'm waiting on the Weld-on. I'm hoping with in 5-7 days I'll have some good news....


Everyone, I cherish the help I have gotten from all of you, and I believe in everyone is welcome at my table.

Happy Easter.

sorry about all the crazy straying off topic. could you please do a video of your system and how it is setup so if there is anything that we can help you tweak we can see it. Happy Easter

[ultra_efficient]

Kelly,

Ben here, please accept my apologies as well for hi jacking your thread. Now back your question about 10mpg gain. I actually managed to see that on a Scion TC, from 30 mpg what I consider mix driving condition to 42 mpg. Now that I have a better understanding on the Toyota system, the only way I was able to achieve that was because of the wide band O2 EFIE I was using and able to induce 1.5 lpm. Unfortunately the owner gave the car to her son on the West Coast and she had me take it off because he probably have no idea to maintain it.

What I found with the EFIE I work with, once you set the front O2 (mv) you can get more gain by playing with the rear O2 (265 mv).

a SAFC2 would take both O2 sensors and calculate the correct voltages for you so that you could properly tune your car.

[keiththevp]

Lord Almighty, Kelly! Are you building a reactor or getting laid for the first time?:D?

I love a good laugh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

[TrafficTrader]

I typed a whole reply yesterday and now I don't see it..... I don't think I did anything wrong????

As I stated in my last reply, I am determined to get favorable data that HHO increases my MPG, because I believe that this process works. As lhazleton stated to me in the beginning of this thread, Patience is important.

I'm in the process of tear apart my cells. The attached pictures just proves I was running the cells at a too high amp level (25amps). But I had higher HHO output 1ltr/50sec.

I'm going to blast and add weld-on 16 to these plates I have. I got the weld-on yesterday, and I'm waiting on my 12 neutral plates.

Please provide me feedback (Positive or Negative) on the direction I'm going.

I'm looking at a -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- (2 units) I'll start at 15 amps and work my way up to 25amps. These are 3.5in plates with a 3 inch o-ring gasket.

[lhazleton]

Kelly,
It's good to see the pictures. With the new plates, make your electrolyte holes about 1/2 the size of the gas holes. Keep the amp draw limited to 1/2 amp. per sq.in.! It's fun to crank it up, but not worth it.
Your surface area is only 4.14sq.in., so with the 4 stacks the max. amps you can run is 16.56. Anything over that can cause damage.
When applying the Weldon 16, patience is a MUST. Let it dry 24 hours before doing anything..........it's difficult, I know.
I'm glad that you're listening & taking advise. As long as you pay attention and don't rush things, you're bound to see some good results.:)

[TrafficTrader]

http://www.gogoosby.com/images/IMAG0002.JPG


Here's a video
http://www.gogoosby.com/images/IMAG0001.AVI


http://www.gogoosby.com/images/IMAG0005.JPG
http://www.gogoosby.com/images/IMAG0006.JPG
http://www.gogoosby.com/images/IMAG0008.JPG

Ok I added the weld-on 16, I drilled out the holes, keeping the bottom ones smaller.... I rebuild the units to -nnnnnn+ -nnnnnn+ I was waiting on 12 more plates which I got 15mins ago via the mail..... I will be preparing those plates to expand my units....

I have fun yesterday..... My main compressor went out so I used a pancake compressor, took me 3 hours to prep the plates....

I'm at 8 plate config and I had to add quite abit of KOH to get 8amps draw..... I measured HHO output and I'm just below 1ltr/min....... I reset my chip. I'll run this for a day because I have to get ready for work but I wanted to let you know where I'm at.

Here's another video
http://www.gogoosby.com/images/IMAG0004.AVI

[TrafficTrader]

I believe I have had my first HHO Experience.

I have been plugging away for awhile now... I have had a few set backs but I believe I'm seeing the light.....

I order extra plates and while I was waiting for them I was experimenting.

I went to a 6 neutral span -nnnnnn+ I added more KOH but I couldn't get my amps up so I added KOH direct to my reservoir (stupid move) after going on a 50mile trip I torn apart the units and I had crystals at the bottom.

I got my plates and went with -nnnnn+nnnnn- on both units.... after about a 60 miles I lost amps.... I blew a gasket and lost my water.... I torn apart again...... I noticed the weld-on 16 was coming off..... My big compressor die in the process and I have to finish with my pancake compressor over 3 hour later and now I see I did not do a good job.....

I cleaned up everything and reassembled...... reset the chip and went on a 100 mile trip.... 40.18 MPG... 11+ miles better than my lowest recorded numbers. :D

Here is my exel spread http://www.gogoosby.com/Saturn.rar

I got 2 questions:

Looking for a professional flow meter at a good price... Anybody knows where I can get one?

2nd. a PWM, will it help me increase my MPG?

I will be doing a long term test at this config to see if I gain better results.... Again any input is always welcomed.

[lhazleton]

Kelly,
Good to see you getting good results!
The Weldon-16 will come off if the plates aren't media-blasted and it also needs to dry at least 24 hours before you touch it. The crystals you found are most likely the Weldon (been there/done that).
A CCPWM will do nothing as far as MPG goes, but it will keep the amperage exactly where you set it. The amp draw won't rise as everything warms up.

[TrafficTrader]

I'm got 1 good reading and I hope for many more..... Yes take it slow... I want to collect some long term data at this config.

I'm looking for my next steps to optimize, falling where I did with 40mpg lands me on a scale, I need to know where that put me on that scale and if I can move up to a better rating.

I have a 2005 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi Quad Daytona waiting for my next project.... I was getting 12.5 and I changed to synthetic oil now I'm at 13.5..... If I could get 20 or better w/HHO....... ;)

I will be looking for some stainless, any good suppliers that will cut a project is even better... I found a price in my area $385 for a sheet 48x96 inches uncut. I also found a cutter but I don't know their prices yet.

There is an ebay listing for 6"plates for $10 apiece or 8" plates for $13, he also sell all hardware as in endcaps and gaskets.

Thank you

Happy Easter

[TrafficTrader]

Feeling frustrated....

I got 1 good run at 40+MPG now my next test was at 33.82mpg @ a 240mile test now I ran 58.4 mile test at 26.57MPG... This is my worst run with or without HHO.... :eek:
I checked everything and only thing I added was water to the reservoir. Now my overflow lines were full so did I get water in engine??? This is about the only variable that was different..... I cleaned my lines.

I believe I need a bubblier after my reservoir.... That's today project.....

Got a question....

My car, 98 Saturn, with a 154351 miles on it... It gets 28-30 normal MPG. I know I burns oil and I have to assume that this will effect my over all outcome but does this have a major effect on my readings? One of these guys that sell Dry Cells states in they website that HHO will not work on a car like that. What does the Mentors say?

I will work on a bubblier today and go on another test too....

Thank you

[TrafficTrader]

Ok, 52.1 mile run, 37.54MPG...... Not bad, not bad at all... I believe I would got better if it was more Hwy than City driving...


My Stats (http://www.gogoosby.com/Saturn.rar)

Going over my numbers from the day I started, I can say if they keep going in the trend/pattern that is recorded then HHO is valid additive for your vehicle.

A lot of my friends are following me on what I'm doing and I love to stand tall and knock all the nay Sayers.

Went to Home Depot.... No clean tubing for a bubbler, I did find a Plastic Shop but it is closed, have to wait till Monday.

[TrafficTrader]

Hello anybody out there??? am I talking to myself?


Ok, where was I?

Saturday, I couldn't find makings for a bubblier but I was going on a test run, but before I left I went in to Belle Tire and had my tires rotated and tire presser checked. I figure I would be ready for my next test. The person at the tire store pulled my car in to be inspected rolled my window down. My window was broke before and now I can't roll my window up, so I didn't go on any test Saturday or Sunday and I had to drive my truck into work today. Wasn't happy when the pump stop at $75 and the truck wasn't full. $4.15 gallon, not happy.... If I didn't have bad luck I would have no luck at all.

Today I did get my bubblier done, but I have the car in the shop getting the window fixed (new motor $65), I couldn't install it. I do have some pictures to share... I had to use brass couplings inside to hold down the white barb tips through the rubber top. The tube is acrylic $3, caps $2.50 I believe everything was just over $10. While I was at the plastic store I got 4 4x4x.5 high des plastic to replace the clear ones I have on my present units.

The bubblier is 12" long 1.5 " OD... Any comments????

Thank you all.

[keiththevp]

That is a great looking bubbler. Nice Job. But one last thing to add. Get one of those blue fish tank aerator stones and attach it to where the bubbles come out in the bottom of the tube. This will make your bubbler scrub the gas 20 times better.

[TrafficTrader]

Now that is a good tip..... Didn't know that....

Thank you

[lhazleton]

Looking good, Kelly! I was just looking back to the beginning of this thread and thinking of how far you've come.:D

[TrafficTrader]

lhazleton, Thank you for the comment....

I remember back in 2008 I built 3 wet cells out of 4" PVC and cover plates, I opened my hood and said where am I going to put these things, The price of gas went down and I still have them in my garage.

So this time I have to follow through, I talked a lot of BS to my friends the last time and even more BS this time so I got to get this working steady.

I didn't get a chance today to go to the fish store I will in the morning and get this hooked up.

My window works like brand new and a $140 less in my pocket....

Also I had to take one of the barbs off, when I put the coupling on I stripped the threads a little, only thing I have now is a straight brass one.

Watching gas gauge too much..... I'm going nuts....

Ok I got a question:

I have access to 4 different gaskets.

1. The original gaskets, Black, that came with the units
2. Smaller OD, a litter thicker, Black.
3. Smaller OD than original, Orange and thick
4. Again Smaller OD, Thick round and orange.

How does plate spacing effect HHO output?

I will get pictures.

[TrafficTrader]

Ok, I got 2 different stones, a blue and tan in color has a longer tube coming out of it, but the size is 1/4 inch vs my 3/8 hose.... I thought I was slick, I cut a small piece of hose off and I took out small section and placed the piece and the stone inside the hose and tighten it down, leaked.... I took plumbers tape and built it up around the tube of the stone, still the hho was not passing through the stone, it was leaking at the base of the stone. I tried the other stone which has a smaller tube with same results,,,, I need a reducer coming off my coupling and run the correct size hole.....

Still hooked it up and reset the chip again..... Looks like my last 70mile run which is when I just picked up the car from the shop doesn't look good via my gas gauge. I will fill and run another test.....

I'm trying to get some what consistent readings, this going all over the chart is frustrating.

I got pictures of the o-rings so again what effect does plate spacing on HHO output?

Also I showed the High Dens Plastic for my end caps and one of my plates..

[TrafficTrader]

Alrighty then.....

I got the bubblier together yesterday I run a larger hose to the stone which didn't work so today I got an adapter to run a smaller hose inside the bubblier. Here is a video of it. http://www.gogoosby.com/IMAG00061.AVI (http://www.gogoosby.com/IMAG0001.AVI)

I also lost my water out the bubblier, must have had a leak.... I used silicone to seal the bottom rubber cap to the bubblier.... hope this helps

[TrafficTrader]

Watching the gas gauge..... Looks promising so far...... I will fill up today and see my results.

:D