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View Full Version : New to the HHO world - I'm addicted!



ColtonW
03-09-2011, 06:03 PM
Hey guys! I'm new to the HHO and I am absolutly addicted! I am just 16 years old, but this information is very interesting to me and I'd like to put it to use with how high gas prices currently are!

Being I am new to this wonderful world of HHO gas I have some questions, and I appologize if they are 'newb' type questions or if they have been asked previously.

1) Answered

2) Answered

3) Answered

4) When talking about dry-cell generators what is the most productive combination of neutral, positive, and negitivly charged plates? (Example: +nnnn-nnnn+)

5) Answered

6) What is perfered or does it not matter: Lots of little plates or few large plates (if there is the same surface area)?


Thank You!!
Colton W.

BioFarmer93
03-10-2011, 06:01 AM
Hey Colton,
Welcome to the forum. Use the the back arrow one click. OK, see in the upper right where there is a horizontal number sequence? Go to that, go back at least 150 pages, start reading. When you get back up to this page, not only will your initial questions be answered, but hundreds of other as yet un-thought of questions will be answered also. We all have done it. I know it is not what you wanted to hear, but the subject has a great deal more depth than is apparent at a glance.

lhazleton
03-10-2011, 10:06 AM
Gettin' lazy Gus??????????:p

ColtonW
03-10-2011, 12:36 PM
Okay guys.. I'll look lol

But is there any way I can get a quick answer to number three, is it possible to have too much hydrogen production for a motor?

Thanks guys!
Colton W.

Roland Jacques
03-10-2011, 02:01 PM
#3 is the hardest question to answer. The answer is, yes and no.

I know you really want the details. But it is a bit involved. i'll try to give you one points that i think can answer part of that question.

Engines are designed to burn Gasoline or dessel. Sticking to gas engines for now, gas burns slow compared to HHO. gas engines ignite it fuel up to 50 degrees before TDC in order to time the burn optimally so MOST of the heat is turned into kinetic energy by the time the the piston is going in the downward movement (starting at about 10 degrees ATDC). If you speed up fuel burn by adding to much HHO the power will start working while the piston is still moving upwards and then The HHO is counter productive. that is just one reason you can have to much HHO. so if you can change your timing and the timing advance curve than you add more HHO. Thats the first hurdle

ColtonW
03-10-2011, 03:51 PM
I had done some research and I had found out that per liter of your engine you want about 1/2lpm of HHO. Is that right?

That means for ym 5.7l V8 I should only pump in about 3-4LPM and for my 2.0l I should pump about 1LPM.. those numbers seem oftly low, don't they (esspecially for the V8).

So you would reccomend just running the 3-4LPM and not try to run more than nessisary (example: 8LPM)?

Sorry my spelling is so poor too!

ColtonW
03-10-2011, 06:13 PM
Man.. that funny little thing called "research" is pretty cool! Thanks for the idea! I have gotten all but 2 of my questions answered! Any chance I could get some help on them?

Thank You!!
Colton W.

ColtonW
03-11-2011, 02:53 AM
To make it simpler, here are all my remaining questions:

What is perfered or does it not matter: Lots of little plates or few large plates (if there is the same surface area)?

What is the best combomnation of N, +, and -? Is it +NNNNN- etc?

koya1893
03-11-2011, 05:58 AM
My remote location is preventing from me to view all your question, how ever I can give you some insight on the plate set up. This is good for short driving -NNNNN+. However if you planned on driving 4-6 hours or during stop and go traffic this set up has proven to be the best combo, -NNNNNN+ and can run with a high concentration without getting hot or using a PWM.

It is best to run two stack with that config and staggared the holes. Make sure run with two exit and inlet hole on your end plates or you will build pressure in your cell.

I did not see the year on the 5.7 if it is a chevy the older model and you have a narrow band O2. the ECU is easily fooled. But if it is the Toyota 5.7, you have your work cut out in figuring out the AFR on the front sensor.

As mentioned .5 lpm to 1 liter of engine displacement is a good rule to follow. With all these data you need to focus on addressing the O2 system, first identify what type (narrow or wide) and how many you have.

Good to see the younger gen is getting involve in this process.

ColtonW
03-11-2011, 11:01 AM
Thank You!

My Silverado is a 1998 by the way.

Yea, it isn't just me who is interested in HHO, my friend and I were talking about alternitive fuels last Saturday as we drove past a gas station and almost shiat ourselves at the prices.. when I had gotten home I had found HHO I had gotten hooked.

Since then, I had gotten myself, my father, and 5-10 friends very interested in it too! :)

I plan on using the mason jar on my Ranger because it just needs a single lpm and I'll just use that to play with solutions.. on my Silverado however, I will use the dry cell design.

ColtonW
03-11-2011, 11:10 AM
My father had come up with a good idea, one of which I did not have an answer.

We live in North-eastern Ohio and during the winter the temprature can drop to -5*F (-15*F with the wind). Therefore I ask you the obvious question, what do I do/how do I keep the cell from freezing/busting with ice?!

Thank You!
Colton W.

lhazleton
03-11-2011, 11:29 AM
Colton,
Don't waste your time with any Mason Jar crapola!
Open bath designs waste way more energy than they could ever produce.
You need a reactor that will produce at least 3 to 4 LPM while drawing only 50 amps.. Those mason jar garbage thingy's will put out maybe 100mlpm (if you're lucky) at 15-20 amps.
You'll need to build a drycell reactor configured -NNNNNN+NNNNNN-NNNNNN+ to get near the production necessary.
Do lots of research before building anything.

I live up north also. To keep from freezing, I always use a 28% KOH electrolyte solution (3lbs 92%KOH flake per gallon of distilled water).
For the bubblers, just use vinegar & alcohol.

koya1893
03-11-2011, 05:02 PM
First let me stress what Lee had mentioned about the Jar cell. If don't like your car or leaving longer then going with the wet cell jar system is a good way to destroy your car and hurt yourself or your family with them. I am, even everyone in here are willing to help you get familiar with this process. However, if you are going to proceed with the Jar cell. You are on your own, I will not be part of the result from them blowing up on you.

As i mentioned in the thread I started, there is plenty of data in here to built an efficient cell (dry cell) and yield good result. As Lee suggested do a lot of research before you start building, it will save you money and not get hurt in the process.

ColtonW
03-11-2011, 06:33 PM
I mean I would be spending lots of money to make something that only produces 1LPM! That's all I need for the 2.0 Ranger.. right? Plus the Ranger is only a vehicle until I get my Silverado going (damn Chev spun a bearing!)

For the Silverado I am deffently going with the dry cell because it is the main vehicle and I need 3-4LPM..

You guys know what you're talking about though!

lhazleton
03-12-2011, 04:46 AM
If you want to build a cheapie jar design, go right ahead. You'll never get anywhere near 1LPM output & you'll be wasting money.

myoldyourgold
03-12-2011, 06:03 AM
ColtonW, you miss the point. The HP you will require to make 1 lpm with such an inefficient design will get you worse mileage or none at all at the best.

Bhart
03-12-2011, 01:38 PM
Colton,
Whenever you come across any information that you feel is vital or just something to remember about start either a journal in Word or Notes. Either copy and paste or do a print screen to save the information. There are too many pages in the forum to try to remember where everything is at. Once in a while I will get lucky and do a search for specefic information.

I also have a 97 Silveraldo that I am currently converting over to HHO. Fortunately there is plenty of room to mount the various componets.

koya1893
03-12-2011, 07:37 PM
I mean I would be spending lots of money to make something that only produces 1LPM! That's all I need for the 2.0 Ranger.. right? Plus the Ranger is only a vehicle until I get my Silverado going (damn Chev spun a bearing!)

For the Silverado I am deffently going with the dry cell because it is the main vehicle and I need 3-4LPM..

You guys know what you're talking about though!
I understand, you feel since your 2.0 liter engine only needs 1lpm you can use a poor design and bomb to produce that small amount. Okay, you really missed the point about those Jar wet cell. By the time they come close, notice I said close to producing what you need it is also close to being that bomb I keep referring to. so, when do you want to experience that noise of that accident, on your way to school, to a sport game with friends. I am only going to ask this of you. When you finally install this jar system in you Ranger. Make sure you drive alone and away from others, so when it does go off you are not hurting any innocent by standers and if you where one of the sailors under me. I probably have take you behind a trash can and perform an attitude adjustment.

You are about or already playing with something that requires focus and demands respect or someone will get hurt.

ColtonW
03-13-2011, 12:51 PM
Okay guys, I'll just use the dry cell for both! :P

Is it possible to build a cheap one though? Because like I mentioned, the Ranger is only a vehicle until I get the Silverado going..

myoldyourgold
03-13-2011, 02:01 PM
If a cheap one wont work why build it. I think what you should do is keep it simple and not cheap.

bobsbbq
03-13-2011, 05:16 PM
Okay guys, I'll just use the dry cell for both! :P

Is it possible to build a cheap one though? Because like I mentioned, the Ranger is only a vehicle until I get the Silverado going..

There is a small dry cell from HHO2U.com a 11 plate dry cell with 3 holes in the center of the plates. They are 4"x4" and small enough to hold in the palm of your hand. They work pretty good and I think you can get the cell for around 95.00 or less if you buy the kit and assemble it yourself. There are also many of these same type of cells on ebay, but be cautious as some of them might not have EPDM O-rings and you will have to be replacing them often. I know the ones from HHO2U.com have them.

There are many good cells out there, it's like everything else, what's in your price range.