Commercial Use Generator [Hi-Res Pictures]

[slimk]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3130/2718144856_89b4bd6714.jpg

More Images are at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/10558638@N05/



I've recently acquired this unit, all I know is that it is some sort of H2 or HHO Generator that has been used on a commercial truck, I have no idea how to get it operational or even test it, as you can see there are a LOT of wires and I have tried to figure them out by giving the wires that 'seem' to make sense some current with no luck at booting it up. It does have some sort of water/electrolytes in the system, but I have no idea what kind. It obviously has a wiring harness for power, that has one white wire, two black and two red wires going into it, i tried giving 12 volts to every possible combination of wires or groups of wires with no luck at getting the red LED's on the power supplies to come on or any other signs of life. I have no reason to believe this unit is broken i just have no idea how to use it.

If you know anything about this unit or similar ones, or have some ideas on how to get it working, or a way to remove some parts to make it similar and thus easier to test, please let me know. If you need any more images to get close-ups of more parts let me know.

[HHOhoper]

Holy crap! 21.1 gigawatts!!!!!! 88 miles per hour!!!!!!

Captain's log:

My new warp core came in the mail today. Now if I can just hook it up......

:D

P.S. Where did you get this? It wasn't from a guy in dark glasses and a turbin was it?

[Smith03Jetta]

I doubt it runs on 12 volts because most commercial trucks have higher voltage systems. If you can find out what kind of truck this was installed on figuring out how to make it work.

[slimk]

here is an image of the switching power supply..it says 10-16 volts, but then where the wires go it says 12 volts imput and 5 volts output... so i THINK it is 12 volts still, im guessing it was for a big pickup truck or a small cube van or something, not 18 wheeler...id love to know what kind of lpm it puts out though...and if its hho or h2, any ideas of how to tell based on how the hoses are setup?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/2717315011_53db9449a2_b.jpg

this appears to be a 2004 model, so kinda old technology, partly electronic but not as much as the newer ones likely, the dealer for these devices in my area has closed down or id just go there and bug them.

mostly i just want to know more about these switching power supply's, what do they do?
also all those other little module-type things with wires coming out of them, what MIGHT they do?

its neat how it has a timer, somehow it records how many hours its been in operation...seen here
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3052/2718135012_dacf14d28b.jpg

[stickittoopec]

I'll take a stab at this. I do industrial controls and write the software. I recognize the pressure sensor and Burkert solenoid valves. This unit is a 12 volt unit. The blue pressure transmitter on top of the unit works in that range and puts out a 4 to 20 ma signal 4 ma is 0 psig and 20 ma is 100 psig (pic102_3815). I think the solenoids pressure range are in the 70 psi range and are 12 volt (pic 102_3813). This tells me the unit operates somewhere around 50 psi range. We choose transmitters so that operating pressures are in the middle of the transmitters range. The accuracy is better there.
The 2 power supplies takes 10 to 15 volts @15 amps input and puts out 5 volts dc at 23 amps. and the mystery black box appears to be a safety of some kind and has 12 volt dc stamped on it (pic 102_3808).
In pic 102_3808, the cylinder on the top left has a label that is taped up, take a look there you might find a manufacturers label. All the stainless and 3/8 to ½ all-thread rod support the pressure theory. There is a lot going on here besides the electronics. The plastic block on top has a lot going on with it. I'll bet once the top is removed you will see channels and o rings going everywhere on both sides of the block. The lage stainless steel cylinder on top is of major interest. I'll guess this has a moving piston of some type that works off pressure of the unit. It could be to move a sacrificial metal out of a chemical bath. The anode appears to be on top of the unit to the left and the cathode is in the chamber on the bottom right. If the sacrificial cathode was made of aluminum and the bath was either sulfuric acid or NaOH it would make a very large amount of pure hydrogen gas very quick. The top cylinder seems to be insulated which would keep the heat in and make this work even faster. Look under that label you might have a good device here.

[Omega]

If you can, find out who the manufacturer is and see if they have a website. If you could download a manual for the unit, you could get some answers. If they don't have a manual you could download, call them up and ask for one. You might be able to talk to some technical service person who could get you up to speed.

Looks interesting!!

[slimk]

"The lage stainless steel cylinder on top is of major interest."

The top comes off of it and it is where you would fill or drain the electrolyte, nothing to fancy just a good high pressure seal and a long narrow cavity that goes down into the cyclinder below.

i taped up the label because the person who i got this from requested i do so if i posted pictures of it, i know the manufacturer, but the local dealer has closed down and from what i've heard the companies status is iffy as well. so i cant really get much info out of the model number or anything, all i know is this was a mass produced [at least to some extent] device and likely went for 4000-5000 dollars and were either leased for sold to people with commercial vehicles who would put a lot of milege on them.

any ideas on how to get this thing to turn on? is that bottom power cable with the 5 pin connector normal? should i be able to get something to happen [which i cant seem to] by giving power to some of those pins?

on the top left there are some small wires that lead to a push button, its not a click on/off one by the looks, at least it doesnt click, but maybe its a reset or something..see if you can get a better look at that, what might it do?

can the power supplies be used by me for anything useful if i take this whole thing apart?
would there be any use for me turning my own 12 volt input to my h2 generator that im building into 5 volts at 23 amps?

i have a feeling im going to be taking it apart when i get some time, i'm just afriad of then finding out how to use it intact but not being able to get it back together...lol

[Johnh]

Try the Manufactures name and the model number in the way back machine.
Even if there is nothing currently on the Web there may be a manual in an archive somewhere.
It may be that you are missing the control box for the unit The Special connectors suggest it was plugged into something other than a trucks electrical system. If you can find the truck through the supplier you may be able to go further with it. I'd seriously suggest you don't take it to bits yet.

You may be able to get the generator to work just by powering up the power supply directly. I would try straight Distilled water in the unit first. If it has gas separation membranes they may be damaged by the wrong electrolyte.
John

[stickittoopec]

Starting the power supplies is easy but we need to know what to put in it first and how much. The switch you asked about looks like it goes to the lite gray plug. That looks like where the controller plugged in. So without the controller it's useless at this point.
It's a shame you couldn't get the whole thing. It looks like this thing could run at different stages, based on temperature and pressure as well as inputs from the engine. There are some wires coming out of the plastic block on the opposite side of the power supplies. They might be temperature sensors. Without a wiring diagram I don't think I would want to run it. There are more questions than answers at this time. What did the hoses go to and what was in them? There is a stainless steel threaded adapter in picture 102_3810 is that the gas output? At this point all we can do is a SWAG analysis (Scientific Wild Ass Guess)
The power supplies by themselves are great for a smack style electrolyzer. They will give you the amps without all the extra voltage that causes smack units to get so hot. Just be aware you will draw more amps than you will put out. But it might be worth it, only a test will tell.