Hho & o2/eci

[BarryH]

Okay, I'm a newbie. I just bought a Greensource Pro 10 kit to install on my 2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring with a 2.0L engine. I already get 25/34 mpg, but would like better mileage and fewer emissions. My concern is the ECI and the possibility of getting no increase or even worse mpg after running the HHO and the O2 sensor telling the ECI to make the fuel mixture richer. I have been told that one way to overcome this issue is the pull the fuse for the ECI for an hour to reset it before running the HHO, then repeating this every 3 months for about a year. Then the ECI would accept the HHO addition and not try to adjust the fuel mixture. Or, do I need a DEMSE/EFIE chip? Do I need to worry about any of this with this engine? Thanks for your feedback!

[lhazleton]

Barry,
Pulling the fuse won't do anything except reset the ECU. It will read the additional oxygen & will increase the fuel pulses due to the stored maps in the computer. You'll need a digital EFIE to overcome this. First, you need to determine what style O2 sensor's you have: are they narrowband or wideband, and does the post cat sensor assist in determining the A/F/R or not.
I don't know anything about the kit you bought, but you only need a reactor that puts out 1LPM with a draw OF 12 amps..
Good luck with it & keep us posted. I have a 2004 Kia Cinco with a 1.6L that I want to do an installation on whenever I get a new engine for it. Similar in many ways, I may be able to learn something from install.

[BarryH]

Barry,
Pulling the fuse won't do anything except reset the ECU. It will read the additional oxygen & will increase the fuel pulses due to the stored maps in the computer. You'll need a digital EFIE to overcome this. First, you need to determine what style O2 sensor's you have: are they narrowband or wideband, and does the post cat sensor assist in determining the A/F/R or not.
I don't know anything about the kit you bought, but you only need a reactor that puts out 1LPM with a draw OF 12 amps..
Good luck with it & keep us posted. I have a 2004 Kia Cinco with a 1.6L that I want to do an installation on whenever I get a new engine for it. Similar in many ways, I may be able to learn something from install.
What if I just pull the ECI fuse and disable it? I think the "check engine" light will come on, but who cares? I hate the thought of having to cough up another $80.00 or so to make this work. The HHO cell I bought (Ebay) cranks out 2.0L per minute @ 12v. I don't have any engine knowledge anymore. I go back a long way and could work on engines back in the 50's and 60's when engines were much simpler. They scare the hell out of me these days!

[lhazleton]

If you remove the fuse, it will run in 'open loop' and HHO won't do anything at all.
I just looked up the product you purchased. Too bad you didn't do a bunch of research first.:confused: It's a simple 'open bath' (wet cell) design that will put out mostly steam rather than HHO gas.:mad: Try just hooking it up as the instructions say and hope for the best. No need for an EFIE or anything else, as it most likely won't produce enough to trip the CEL anyway.
When you run it, check for steam. KOH vapor will eat away any aluminum it comes in contact with (throttle body, intake runners, head, etc.).

[BarryH]

Well, as I said, I'm new to this. Greensource (the company) makes big claims and maybe I fell for them. They have 100% positive feedback on Ebay and with my (very) limited knowledge of this whole subject, I suppose it is pretty easy to dupe me. I have sent them your last reply and will see how they respond. I expect they will be pretty defensive. I paid $81.00 plus shipping for this bad boy. So, are all wet cells worthless?

[lhazleton]

They're not totally worthless, they're just inefficient. In an open bath design, there is a very high voltage leak, as the current will follow the path of least resistance, that being the electrolyte around the plates.
In a drycell design, the current is forced through each plate since electrolyte is only located within each cell.