Mercedes diesel test mule

[BioFarmer93]

Hey Chief Ben, check this out- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0pmnAXQ3Yo

What year did you say yours is? I can't get over how nice this one runs for its age (28). It has a brand new (not rebuilt) transmission in it, but has only been driven for the last 6 months after sitting for 4-1/2 years and I think it needs something for stickyness and slow shifting.. I also need to look over the boost piping for leaks because I don't think she's being all she can be..

Carter- Aren't you a Mercedes guy also? I seem to recall... I vill be in need af infomazion on der inz undt outz af der automobil. Or in other words...
Hilfe! Ich weiß nicht, meine hinteren Ende aus einem Loch im Boden über Mercedes Automobile. Jede Einsicht oder geheime Wissen wäre sehr dankbar.

[lhazleton]

LOL Bio.........yer nuckin' futs!

[myoldyourgold]

That sucker has not been anywhere yet. Mine has 330,000 odd on it and it is an 84. Has been through a few -60F winters buried in snow. Even with the antenna up I could not see the car. Walked over it for a couple days. The block heater finally melted enough snow and I could tell where it was and dig it out. That really messes up the glue on all the wood and the clear coat on the top and the trunk. The block heater saves the hood. These beasts are good for 400,000 miles. HHO really makes a winner out of them. I never got much better than 20mpg stock. Of course mine is like Koyo's a 300sd. That is a bigger (126 body style) nicer car, more weight than the 300d. Putting in the new 7 speed transmission is what makes them the cats meow. (at the cost of of a new (car) small piece of manure) You also need to go to the tallest tire that will fit so you can cruse at lower rpm. They last a lot longer that way and have plenty of power at 2200rpm. No rocket ship but goes all day at 80mph with the big tires. With internal work on the pump and the right timing, and changes to the crankcase ventilation system just to mention a few, 60 mpg at 80mph with HHO is not impossible. A good head wind will kill that though, these cars are not the most aerodynamic beasts in the world. I think with the new trans it would be a lot better. Just $$$$ Koyo might be able to verify this but my understanding is that in 1985 they added a bunch more smog chet on them and so I have always recommended 1984's as the preferred year. I have found 84's bring more $$ at least in the bio diesel circle.

[rcflyn]

Bio:
AWSOME!!! Man, Gotta LOVE the sound of the 5&6 Cylinder Diesels..
When your video opened up, First thought was "I hear THAT Sound EVERY DAY"
ONE of these days, I'm gonna get some HHO into my 85 BMW 524TD. I'm sure you've read some of my posts, and concerns... But, Once I find the TIME, I'll get that "ROUND TUIT" and start doing it... My only Draw back, is the Platform I want to Mount it on, that means I've got to remove my Original Air Box, and find me a K&N Pod Style air filter...
B.T.W... I just bought another 524TD off of E-bay for $360... It's gonna be a parts car. Motor's partly torn down. I mainly want the I.P., Head, and TURBO (Yes Lee, TURBO, should the KOH Scrubber we've been reading about Fail, I'll have an EXTRA TURBO, just incase of turbo Failure due to KOH)
Just gotta get my AZZ To Georgia to get the car...
But this is COOL as HEJJ... Koya's got his HHO Diesel, You picked one up, I've got mine & MyOld..... I'm sure between all of us, we'll come up with some Interesting conversations.... I'm knocking off anywhere between 28-35mpg with mine right now, and THAT's with a mildy leaking I.P.. Them Puppies cost $750 Just to RESEAL. ON TOP of the R&R Labor...
You gonna start using BIO in yours??? If I could get my Dad off his LAZY AZZ and get his processor up and going so he could TEACH Me how to make it, I'd Switch over to 100% Bio in Summer, and 20-50% in winter... But, He's learned a few things, and has been doing a BLEND Mixture.. I don't completely understand it yet, but blend GASOLINE With VEGGIE, Fliter out the Glisorine, and run it like that... Somethin bout GASOLINE in a Diesel Scares me.. But, he's doing it on his 98E-350, and My OLE 92-F250.. Stinks like All get out, but it's working... I'm just Chicken CHIT... Plus, with that Mildly Leaking I.P. On the Beemer, I'm not wanting to open a Can of Worms I don't have the $$$ To fix at the moment... Leave well enuf alone, Know what I mean??? LOL....

MyOLD: as Much experimenting with HHO as you've done, have you dabbled with BIO Diesel any??? BIO and HHO really intrigues me. CHEAP FUEL (what, $1.50-$2.00 a gallon to make, Then, HHO, distilled water @ $1.13 will last a LONG TIME) We're talkin 1960's Fuel prices now, if we can get the HHO to get us to the 40-60mpg range)

OOOHHH YYYAAAA, My OLE Beemer's only got 104,200 on er.... I think I'm going to have a FEW Miles left to play with....

[BioFarmer93]

Hey Ben,
Thanks- I'll have to look in front of the radiator again, I didn't realize there was that much room up there. It will probably be a few weeks before I get a system in there because I'm going to concentrate on getting the big stuff fixed up first, but I am definitely looking forward to your photos and video walk-throughs of the stuff you have done so far. Sorry I cut the phone call short- mami was making quesadillas as only a Cubana with a flare for Mexican cooking can make them and the smells coming out of the kitchen were making it very difficult to concentrate on HHO!

[BioFarmer93]

Hey RC,
What's the hold up, man? You have the perfect platform in the Beemer TD, and a K&N filter setup is not expensive... Still worried about KOH steam? You're gonna laugh, but I've been toying with the idea of a replaceable toilet paper inline moisture absorber made of PVC pipe with barb fittings in each end- on the PVC cap at one end and on the tube itself at the other end so I can use one of those removable red Oatey expandable pipe plugs to change out the wadded up toilet paper every week or whatever. I live to experiment...:D
The mileage you're getting right now sounds like what I was told to expect from mine by the PO that was using it as his DD. I feel like we should be able to see somewhere in the ballpark of 40-43mpg with the introduction of of 3-4 lpm of HHO. Does that sound about right to everyone?
As far as biodiesel goes, I think I'm just going to do a 50-50 mix of petro diesel and WVO thats been filtered, heated (dried) and centrifuged down to 1-2 microns. I found some decent prices on Ebay for wvo centrifuges and sock filters. I've already put the word out in my neighborhood that anyone who fries their turkey this year HAS to give me the oil and not set it out for the garbage collection. I've also been gathering the parts and pieces for a solar powered oil heater panel that has a thermostat that only lets elec. from the separate photovoltaic panel power up the 12v oil pump that moves the oil through the solar hot oil panel when it senses 165dF. You would be amazed at the number of people that throw away perfectly good mirrors! The design uses 4 of them to increase solar gain on the thermal (oil) panel. A 45 dollar tracker from Redrock, 2 pieces of 3/4-10 threaded rod and two little $17 surplus 12v gearmotors keep it pointed at the sun. The frame is made from steel bed frames that folks throw away. My wife no longer scoots down in the seat these days when I stop at an interesting trash pile... She's seen too much of what I can do with other peoples junk. I think she might even be a little proud of me.;)

[rcflyn]

Bio,
The Hold Up??? HHHAAAA.... School.... EX.... Baby.... Tryin to make a buck or two... Yaaa dddaaaa yyyaaaa dddaaa yyyaaaa dddaaaaa....... I know, Excuses are Like AZZ HOLZ.... It's GONNA get done... Sometime...

I'm gonna see if I can FIND the Pics of a V.W. that was run on WVO... I don't Remember the ENTIRE Details, but it was a Horrific end result. All I remember for sure, this guy had a VW Something or another Diesel obvioulsy. He ran BIO for awhile, then someone convinced him to switch to WVO... It seems he had a good set up, but the end results was a fairly LOW Milage Motor being JUNKED out... He swapped motors, went back to bio, and all was going good last I'd heard. (was on some VEGGIE forum, I'll be derned if I remember who, when, where) but his horror story kinda scared me from Veggie Set ups...
My Dad got himself a centrifuge also, but, it's kinda like his BIO Processors.. Just sittin there in the Corner, WAITING to get used... After he got the Centrifuge, he learned the "BLEND" thingie.. that blend thingie scares me worse than the WVO... So I'll either keep runnin Diesel, or I'll get off MY LAZY AZZ and Learn to Brew up BIO on my own... I've watched my dad a couple times, SEEMS fairly Easy...

Oh Ya, I'm not TOO Worried about gettin the KOH out anymore... Nick gave me some build designs that he feels will filter out almost ALL the KOH... Go HOME, and I'm sure you can find his Filter Design... Looks fairly EASY and Cheap to build....

[myoldyourgold]

Here is my cars identical twin. Mine used to look like this but surely does not any more. This guy want the world for it though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-SD-E-S-CE-D-1984-Mercedes-300-series-300SD-One-owner-86KMiles-/330457656881?pt=US_Cars_Trucks

[rcflyn]

You guys make me SICK...
Holy Chit, Look at all that room in front...
My Beemers Grill area is so tight, I'd be lucky to get a Bubbler in there, Let alone the reactor...
That's why I've chosen to eliminate the Air Box (Eventually) and install everything on the little platform right infront of the Turbo. I'm just curious as to how warm the setup will wind up getting beings its gonna reside under the hood...

[BioFarmer93]

RC- That's the same issue that's been on my mind, heat under the hood. This is what I am going to do in the MB- a ducted insulated aluminum flashing-metal shield that gets cool air in from the grill, flows around the e-lyzer and dumps it under the car at a reverse angle with some aluminum dryer duct or similar to get a bit of venturi effect. I have also been giving more than a passing thought to somehow (evaporative cooling?) using some coiled steel tubing with a reservoir at the lowest point to pass the gas through to encourage condensation of steam and perhaps the centrifugal forces exerted on the mist would sling the droplets against the coils wall and drain back down to the reservoir. Whatcha think?

[rcflyn]

With all that Room behind the grill, I don't think you'll have anything to worry about, I'd throw it ALL up there... I sure wish my Beemer had that kind of room...
And I really don't think you installing duct work will really do to much good (Maybe I'm thinking wrong here). But, as the car is moving, I really don't think under hood temps are going to be all that high.. BUT, in Stop and Go situations.. So when you're STOPPED, there isn't going to be any airflow through your Duct work either.. Although...once you get moving again, Maybe the Duct work would cool the reactor down a bit quicker... Or are we just speaking Richard language here?????? :D :eek: :D

[myoldyourgold]

Maybe the Duct work would cool the reactor down a bit quicker..

I put a reactor in a hot spot in one of my tests where there was very little airflow. I just ran an old vacuum hose from the front of the car fresh air to the reactor. It dropped the reactor temperature by 20 degrees when moving but it warmed up quick when stopped. This was in a old suburban OBD I. It did a 2800 mile test for me over a 3 day run and then back after a few weeks another 2800 miles. That test only resulted in a 2mpg average gain. No electronics. This car makes this run 3 or 4 times some years so makes a good test bed. That was a year ago. I am going to try some new things on the same vehicle, which has a new engine in it now, again later this year.

[BioFarmer93]

Unless I had a sweet spot somewhere in front of the radiator I would isolate, insulate and duct. By now you guys know that I tend to approach things a bit differently, sometimes it serves me very well, other times I would have done better to stay "in the box"... It has been a mixed blessing my entire life. Remind me to tell the dyslexia story one day. Any way, I was thinking of using foamcore board, brushing a light coat of Elmers wood glue onto one side and also brushing a coat onto some .01" aluminum flashing from Home Depot. Let the both air dry them lay the flashing on top of the foamcore and ironing it with a medium hot always moving iron to activate the glue yet not melt the foam. Flip over and repeat process. When cooled we have a semi-impervious (if edges are sealed), highly insulative (thermally) structural composite material to build the compartment from that will be sturdy enough to support some ducting and attach to vehicle structure with screws and fender washers to spread the load a bit and insulative enough to provide a significant thermal barrier in stop and go traffic. I'm pretty much sold on the 4" dia. spiral aluminum dryer duct (the expensive good kind, not the cheap stuff) for the ducting, it stays formed well once routed.

[lhazleton]

I just don't understand all the fuss over reactor placement.
If it's in a hot area, just attach one of Richards' 'cooling fans'!:D

[BioFarmer93]

Oooh mista Lee, don chu be knowin I an' I don need no coolin fan mon,. We gots all de cool air in de world fallin from roun' de little Tesla device what makin de antigravity too.. We be tappin dat one for when de A/C be on da blink.. Ja mon, it be slick like coconut oil on a fat girl...;)

[rcflyn]

I just don't understand all the fuss over reactor placement.
If it's in a hot area, just attach one of Richards' 'cooling fans'!:D

WHY Do you think I requested 2-4 of those FANS you've got?????? :rolleyes:If ONE does GOOD, then 2's gotta do GOODER... Right???? And, Since I'm getting me a "PARTS" car, Yall KNOW I've gotta Build me a Reactor for THAT Car too...
HHHMMMM..... Maybe the parts car will wind up being like Glennie's Basement...
MOST EFFICIENT BEEMER in the world????


BIO....
You've got me thinking now.... OH LORD, HELP US ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

[BioFarmer93]

Hey Ben,
No apology necessary- I would try re-adjusting the ALDA first to see if that affects the shutoff, if for no other reason than the scientific method of changing only one variable at a time to accurately isolate the cause. Enough preaching..
25A huh? More plates, more KOH, or did you just decide to turn it up? I was looking at an alternator last night for our cars... OEM is only 65A!! and it's mounted down under everthing to boot! I can see research and machining in my future... Maybe you have already found this place, but it seems to be a goldmine of of hard to get parts for our old girls... https://mercedessource.com/taxonomy/term/22,46
Yesterday after work I went out and did round two on the under hood cleaning, I picked up an in-line soap dispenser for my pressure washer since I've never been able to figure out how to get the provided soap siphon pickup to work on the damn thing, started Mercy up and let her get warm a bit then went to war on the greasy dirtys... Have you ever used "Krud Kutter"? That stuff is unbelievable... It was also ubelievable how much crap and dirt and oil and crud the PO had let accumulate under the hood. When I got finished it almost looked like she just rolled out of the M-B factory. Well, except for all the hacked wiring and vacuum hoses... I'm going to HAVE to get a manual on this bad little Bavarian baby because I have NEVER seen SO much vacuum operated equipment on anything in my life before. Oh, and did you know we have an auxilary water pump that kicks in (hopefuly) at low rpm & high temp because the stock water pump doesn't move enough water when the rpm is low. I'm always impressed with German engineering, even when it's not working.;)

[myoldyourgold]

Some information on the Bens alternator. I being in a rural farm area found that some John Deer large tractors use Bosh alternators and many parts are interchangeable. I had the alternator Guy at the local John Deer dealer rebuild my alternator on his own time, and cost me $100. It is a 200 amp baby now. I on all my cars have drilled a 1/8" hole in the thermostat to increase flow, and in the Mercedes I have 2 holes drilled. Increased flow of the liquid has many effects that I can not explain but I can tell you that coupled with HHO it makes a difference and it has nothing to do with temperature. I have to cover the radiator in the winter in -20 to -60 weather anyway and plug her in so no warm up problems. In warmer climates there are no problems.

[myoldyourgold]

For those Bens 300 people I suggest after retarding the pump timing to do 2 things. One is increase the boost by at least a pound on the turbo and the other is to go to 2 LPM HHO. You can increase the boost anytime but if you want max gains with no loos in power you need to do both of these things together when retarding the pump timing. You will be very happy you did.