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View Full Version : Design Plan, suggestions please....



njr905
03-24-2010, 12:08 AM
Hi, I'm new to this and haven't even passed the drawing board yet.
I've been reading and learning about HHO reactors and ideas for several weeks now and have come up with an idea of my own. Problem is that, a lot of statements from newbies and veterans alike seem to contradict their beliefs and/or claims. Which, makes it quite confusing. :confused:

Some have used the -+-+-+ design which I favor due to its simple logic and construction till I learned about the heating problem and the need for a PWM and some incorporate bipolar plates as in: -NN++NN- or -NN+NN- which provides more construction challenge (at least for me).

I have a 2.4L diesel engine with a 12V 75A alternator.
The alternator only needs to charge the 3SM battery while the pair of halogen lamps (12V 90W/100W each) are being used. I think that's roughly 10Amps for both @ high beam. Parking lights, break lights, dashboard light, turn signals and horn contributes a negligible amount of load in the alternator.
During the day, after 2 minutes from replenishing what the engine heater and starter took, the alternator is virtually useless.

So here what I thought: (I hope I use correct terminologies) :p

I was planning to build a +-+-+-+ 7 stainless plate single cell design using vinegar or baking soda as catalyst in a water filter.

Having 13.8V supply from the battery and alternator, I thought those 7 plates would divide the voltage like:

+ - + - + - +
1.7 2.3 1.7 2.3 1.7 2.3 1.7

Which, would not exceed the 2.5v limit towards a thermal runaway.
I'm having a feeling I'm wrong about this.:(

I only plan to set the limit to 25Amps. Never mind if I'm not getting enough HHO in respect to my engine displacement but a concern if I'm getting too much. 2 cells I think is the most I can fit in my jeep.

I'm thinking 2.5in x 7in 18Ga 3 mm gap stainless plates should be OK for starters.

Please tell me what I could expect from this set up and the feasibility of this project. More I read, the more I learn that more people are using bipolar plates. A little help please. Thanks.

lhazleton
03-24-2010, 04:59 PM
For a 2.4L, you'll want to produce at least 1.2 liters of HHO @ 25 amps..
If you're building a wet cell (very inefficient) with 7 plates, your best bet would be +NNNNN-. 5 bi-polar (neutral) plates per stack is the normal starting configuration. The less bi-polars, the more steam. 3mm gap is fine.
Forget about vinegar or baking soda. The best electrolyte is KOH flake, but NaOH can be used also.
If you're concerned about thermal runaway, build a drycell reactor instead.
An 'open bath' or 'wet cell' reactor will waste lots of energy and generate excesive heat due to current leakage.
If you're intent on building a wet cell, at least use 8ga.AWG. The wiring's gonna get hot.

njr905
03-24-2010, 07:04 PM
Thanks for the clarification. A lot of mysteries solved. :D

I guess the +NNNNN- is the way to go for a wet cell.
Why (or how) is current leakage occurring in wet cells?
Is there anyway we can reduce current leakage?

Will I need a PWM for +NNNNN- layout?
How long would I need to stop operation due to heat without a PWM?
I'm not sure if I can get KOH around here, I live in Manila that's why I favor either vinegar or baking soda. Cheap, easy to get, less danger.
BTW, why KOH? :confused:

I just found a water filter (around 2 liters in capacity) yesterday and 2.5in x 7in dimension configuration should fit in nicely, I haven't done the math if 8ga with 3 mm spacing would.
How thick is 8ga in millimeters?

I'm not sure I can build a dry cell, I have no idea how it works.
I don't even know what to ask. :(