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View Full Version : What is the best housing for the price?



jerryrig
07-26-2008, 12:54 AM
I am using good ol' pvc, but my cap that I have my threaded fitting in keeps trying to leak. We have siliconed a couple of times, but it sprung another small leak again tonight. I wish they made a 3'' pvc threaded cap with a small threaded attachment coming off of it.:(

Anyhow, what is everyone else using for a housing?:)

Stratous
07-26-2008, 01:17 AM
Have you tried using teflon tape to seal the lid? Honestly though, I used the PVC electrical box in my truck. I dont like it, it warps under heat and I have to reshape the box every now and again. Once I get enough money, I will build my next unit from polycarbonate. I will either do a 6 cell design or a 3 cell design with "N" or "U" plates. A 3 cell desing using +NN-NN+ would work nicely I think, but a 6 cell wired in series would probably be better, but more costly. I suppose its up to the wife on how much money she lets me have...lol

Dewayne
07-26-2008, 01:21 AM
I've seen 4" pvc cap and fitting that have a gasket in them.
Sorry I don't remember where.

I'm using 4" pvc also. I did a pressure test today. When I got to 69psi I heard a snap so I stopped. I didnt find any leaks. I'll be doing a bench test this weekend.

If I have to rebuild the cell I'm going to use ABS. The temp rating for PVC is 140 degs and ABS is 180 degs.

EltonBrandd
07-26-2008, 02:15 AM
I'm using ABS 4" for my cell. One bad thing about it is that ABS is built with an air core, so it insulates well. The electrolyte will not dissipate heat through the ABS very well. The good thing about it is that it is built with an air core, so it insulates well. So the ambient temp wont affect the electrolyte as much. The cap doesn't leak, I use teflon tape and tighten it until it stops turning.

Smith03Jetta
07-26-2008, 10:09 AM
I like my Yellow Pelican case but just to be fair, I've been running mine un-opened for two weeks straight. I plan to take it out today and inspect it. I'll report back on how it stood up to the strain of electricity, water, chemicals, minimal heat and bumps from the road. I do know, however that the case stays cool to the touch on the outside and it is not leaking water or gas. Volume test two days ago was yielding 920 ml/minute.

It's a little expensive but if you add up the cost for a PVC tube you can quickly justifiy the price of a $50.00 case.

mario brito
07-26-2008, 01:07 PM
i believe that this one i bought for just 5 euros is the best choise. it will not leak, great heat dissipation / tolerance, great negative pole surface, does not break in pieces. and all you have to do is put your positive inside and drill 2 holes on the top.

http://hhoforums.com/showthread.php?t=537

HYDROTEKPRO
07-26-2008, 02:23 PM
Water boils at (212 F).

(180 F) continous rated ABS is not good enough for long term. (140 F) continous rated PVC is even worse.

CPVC is rated at (200 F to 212 F) continous. Which would you rather have in your car?

Lowes Home Improvement has CVPC, but only in the smaller sizes. Home Depot might have it as well. To get the CPVC in the larger sizes, go to the Customer Service Counter, and Special Order your CPVC in the sizes you need. It's more expensive, but it's a much safer material.

Polycarbonate may also fail eventually during long term exposure to hot alkali.

Stainless steel casings would obviously be ideal, just make sure they are sealed extremely well so they don't leak either fluid or gas. This is the challenge with Stainless steel casings.

Painless
07-26-2008, 03:03 PM
Was just doing some googling for CPVC supplies and found this online store, $12.95 for a 12x12 inch sheet:

http://www.smallparts.com/CPVC-High-Temp-Sheet-12in/dp/B000MAL0OS?ie=UTF8&pf_rd_r=1X22WPJFGVMYR2EEH2MK&pf_rd_p=413178501&pf_rd_i=0&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_m=AIUBT5HP6PMAF&pf_rd_t=301

Not sure how this compares?

If you were building a container from sheet CPVC, what process would you use to join / seal the sheets?

HYDROTEKPRO
07-26-2008, 05:07 PM
Router grooves and glue instead of butt joint and glue. I'd make sure the machining was really good, and I'd use plenty of glue. Leaky electrolyzers (whether gas or liquid) just plain suck.

candyman55
07-26-2008, 09:00 PM
hey guys,
I just joined the forum a few days ago, but I have been working on generators for a while. For containers I have been fabricating Polyethelene boxes from cutting boards that I buy from walmart. They are usually 15 X 20 and 18 X 20 easy to cut on a tablesaw and are 7/16" thick. $10. to $12. They hold up to heat and chemicals well for long periods of time. Just drill the pieces about every 1 to 1-1/2" and screw together with #6X1-1/4" screws use good quality silicone sealer to seal before screwing together. They hardly ever leak are tough and can be drilled and threaded for fittings.

Jeff

HYDROTEKPRO
07-26-2008, 10:01 PM
That's great. If it works, it works.

Polyethylene is rated for about (200 F) max. continous.

There is a safety margin of temperature that the polymer manufacturers undoubtedly have not told us about, which is excellent for all of our applications.

Nonetheless, for long term use, which material would you rather have in your car?

mikestrikes
07-26-2008, 10:07 PM
If I was to build containers out of any type of plastic I'd go on and get a Plastic Welde'n Kit... they are cheap and easy to use, and does a GREAT job at sealing...

mario brito
07-26-2008, 10:08 PM
That's great. If it works, it works.

Polyethylene is rated for about (200 F) max. continous.

There is a safety margin of temperature that the polymer manufacturers undoubtedly have not told us about, which is excellent for all of our applications.

Nonetheless, for long term use, which material would you rather have in your car?

SS ! :) LOL

mikestrikes
07-26-2008, 10:22 PM
http://www.wegenerwelding.com/usa/flash/index.html

HYDROTEKPRO
07-27-2008, 05:46 PM
What is the hottest temperature you have measured in or on an electrolyzer?

c02cutter
07-27-2008, 06:01 PM
I know Lowes and Home depot are the prefered here, but with a bit of looking Mcmaster Carr has all. On top of that you can look up ratings of the material you are building out of and determine what you need. I will say in playing with just generation cells and taking temp on them that they work better at higher temps. Just my 2 cents.

candyman55
07-27-2008, 06:37 PM
Even though polyethylene is only rated for 200 deg. contunious. The hottest that I have ever ran my cell is 170. My new tube cell ran 14 hours straight pulled 18.5 amps and only reached 160 in 1 gallon of water.

I think for the money and the workability and the avaliability. Probably one of the best deals out there.

BoyntonStu
07-27-2008, 08:02 PM
Build a box out of plywood.

Line it with rubber, pool vinyl, shower stall rubber, truck tube, etc.

Perhaps even tool dip or even epoxy paint.

BoyntonStu

mario brito
07-27-2008, 08:27 PM
i'm very sorry to insist, but why not SS ?

i bought this one for just 5 euros...

BoyntonStu
07-27-2008, 08:32 PM
i'm very sorry to insist, but why not SS ?

i bought this one for just 5 euros...

Some folks want box cells with 60 to 102 plates.

BTW I like the idea of a metal case. Cooling, and 1 less contact.

The shape is the problem.

BoyntonStu

Stratous
07-27-2008, 08:42 PM
Ideally it would be nice to have the edges of the plates sealed in the sides of the enclosure. It would negate the need of using silicone or some other method of sealing the plates. A nice thick "acrylic" style like PEEK or Polycarbonate with grooves cut in the sides for the electrodes and "N" or "U" plates to slides. Or waffers made of the same material used as sealers/spacers. That would probably be easier to build.

mario brito
07-27-2008, 08:44 PM
Some folks want box cells with 60 to 102 plates.

BTW I like the idea of a metal case. Cooling, and 1 less contact.

The shape is the problem.

BoyntonStu

that's a good point, the shape could be a problem. but anyway, most of cell's i've seen have this shape. about the size, they have much bigger's then this one, for no more then 15-20 euros. i think it's easier to adjust the plates shape to the cell then otherwise. i bought this one in a "chinese shop", it's SS for sure, but no information about the grade.

thanks

HYDROTEKPRO
07-27-2008, 09:00 PM
That 5 Euro Stainless cylinder with the mason jar style acrylic snap seal lid is an extremely resourceful utilization of money for an electrolyzer case.

The plywood box lined with shower pan liner or whatever else will take the hot alkali for extended periods, ridiculous as it sounds, is similarly very resourceful. I'd be concerned about the plywood catching fire under the hood, especially on long trips during the summer in hot climates like Phoenix or Australia.

Speaking of which, what is the hottest temperature ever recorded for an electrolyzer under the hood of a car or truck?

In both of the above examples of cases, a completely air tight seal is necessary to take advantage of all of the oxyhydrogen produced inside. Since hydrogen is probably the smallest molecule of them all, the importance of the sealing of the unit cannot be belabored. Airtight for oxygen or ambient air is not necessarily airtight for hydrogen, since it's such a small particle. You might be making 1 or 2 liters per minute, but how much of that is actually going where it is supposed to-out the HHO Out Line-to the engine? EVERY seal, fitting, union, etc., should be tested HOT, with the soapy water test that the gas company uses to find leaks in your gas meter fittings!

If you just toss some Ruthenium Salts in your gas tank, won't that just take care of everything, and give us all the mileage, horsepower and reductions in emissions that we are seeking?