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View Full Version : Number of cells and if PWM is needed.



BoyntonStu
04-03-2009, 10:11 AM
Copied from From Watercar Forum:

"

With 8 plates, 7 cells, a PWM should not be needed. That is 2 Volts per
cell at 14 Volts, unless you have a bad regulator on the alternator, you
should be just under that (typically 13.8 Volts.) At 7 plates, 6 cells,
you will see 2.333 Volts per cell or 12 Volts at full output for 2 Volts
per cell.

For a 100 Hz PWM with 1 Ampere of ripple, you would need a fairly large
inductor (on the order of 1/10 of a Henry) and it would have to carry
all the current, since you would have a load with a large voltage drop
and a high duty cycle. To see what a choke is, see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductor. The magic formula is V=LdI/dT
where V is the voltage, L is the current. dI is the current change and
dT is the time change. Solving for L we get L=V*dT/dI, let's assume a 1
Ampere current change and a 12 Volt gas generator voltage while running.

A faster switch will require faster switching or the peak losses will
skyrocket. The charge in the gate to drain capacitor results in slower
switching unless the drive is fast and of high current *DURING
SWITCHING*. Calculating it at 500 KHz we get 12*2^-6/1 or 24
microhenries That is about 44 turns of #14 wire on a T300-2 core --
over 3" in diameter! As you can see, high power is costly.

So we also need drivers, a FET, a catch diode, etc. Bet it runs over
$100 before you are done.

Assuming you can find one (without design costs), you are talking a
non-trivial component which will work well.

Now, if you wanted to build a 12 plate cell, you could use a boost
regulator and get higher output for the same price. Boost regulators
take 14 Volts in and give higher voltage (at lower current) out. Given
the same POWER input, the larger plate area means less bubble shrouding
and higher gas output. Not much, but enough to make it somewhat better.

The simple answer is that you don't need a PWM if you design an 8 plate
system. It won't run well unless you have a 14 Volt supply for it (a
car battery with a small charger won't hack it, you will get 12 Volts,
you need an alternator and engine to drive it or a really big (i.e. 50
Ampere) charger.)

Be sure to add a pressure switch to ensure the cell shuts down if the
pressure "runs away" during operation.

And be sure your bubbler has both an anti-siphon check valve and an
vacuum breaker check valve. Smack found without the vacuum breaker
check valve, his cell was damaged. Without an anti-siphon valve, your
bubbler will empty into the cell and without a bubbler working, you are
asking for trouble! I have put a schematic in the files area showing
how check valves help. /* Check valves can not stop a flashback!*/

--
David G. LeVine
Nashua, NH 03060"
--------------------------------------------

The point: Use 7 cells and you will not need a PWM.

Small point: I found that with 1/32" spacing, the Amoeba Cell can go lower than 2 V/cell (1.88V)


BoyntonStu

alpha-dog
04-03-2009, 10:38 AM
Then why is it that when I run my P-channel pwm at higher PRF's I reduce current while maintaining output. You should be at 3khz or higher to get improved gains. I have proven this on my systems, both truck and test electrolyser.

H2OPWR
04-03-2009, 11:46 AM
Stu, I fully understand the point of no PWM. Simpler build, less money, and anything electronic uses some power period! Any current loss is something we can not get back unless there really is a magic frequency that helps seperate H2O. In earlier tests running test after test at all sorts of different frequency's I could never find a difference.

With that said I do beleive a PWM is necessary if you live in a cold climate where freezing is an issue. The loss in effeciency by adding alcohol to the e-lite to stop freeze up if far greater than using a PWM. A high concentration of KOH that will not freeze will draw way too much power without a PWM.

Larry

alpha-dog
04-03-2009, 12:27 PM
I think the biggest problem is that you try to get as much gas out as possible. I have found that at even you get less gas out at less amperage with the pwm, your efficiency improves. So, if that means more efficiency then add another electrolyser to bring output back up.

HHO BLASTER
04-03-2009, 01:21 PM
Stu, I fully understand the point of no PWM. Simpler build, less money, and anything electronic uses some power period! Any current loss is something we can not get back unless there really is a magic frequency that helps seperate H2O. In earlier tests running test after test at all sorts of different frequency's I could never find a difference.

With that said I do beleive a PWM is necessary if you live in a cold climate where freezing is an issue. The loss in effeciency by adding alcohol to the e-lite to stop freeze up if far greater than using a PWM. A high concentration of KOH that will not freeze will draw way too much power without a PWM.

Larry

You right Larry, but with that big cell of yours, it is a shame to waste all that power in the PWM. What if you shorted out some cells when you first start up, then when it warms up, unshort the rest, of course you would need a very large relay to do that, with the 60 amps your pulling.

Gary

Dave Nowlin
04-03-2009, 01:36 PM
Shorting out cells won't keep it from freezing overnight. A stong enough concentration of KOH will.

Dave Nowlin

BoyntonStu
04-03-2009, 01:49 PM
Stu, I fully understand the point of no PWM. Simpler build, less money, and anything electronic uses some power period! Any current loss is something we can not get back unless there really is a magic frequency that helps seperate H2O. In earlier tests running test after test at all sorts of different frequency's I could never find a difference.

With that said I do beleive a PWM is necessary if you live in a cold climate where freezing is an issue. The loss in effeciency by adding alcohol to the e-lite to stop freeze up if far greater than using a PWM. A high concentration of KOH that will not freeze will draw way too much power without a PWM.

Larry

Larry,


I am confused.

We agreed that KOH at 28% freezes at -65*C.


Why would you need to add alcohol?

If your unfrozen E-lyte is too cold to draw enough Amps, use a relay/switch to short out a plate or 2 to reduce the number of cells and it will be at operating temperature within a few minutes.

A well designed cell will not run away.

I ran the Amoeba Cell with 1/32" spacing for 8 continuous hours in the Florida sun.

Start up was 19.5 A and within 5 minutes it stabilized at 24 A.

BoyntonStu

H2OPWR
04-03-2009, 04:27 PM
Larry,


I am confused.

We agreed that KOH at 28% freezes at -65*C.


Why would you need to add alcohol?

If your unfrozen E-lyte is too cold to draw enough Amps, use a relay/switch to short out a plate or 2 to reduce the number of cells and it will be at operating temperature within a few minutes.

A well designed cell will not run away.

I ran the Amoeba Cell with 1/32" spacing for 8 continuous hours in the Florida sun.

Start up was 19.5 A and within 5 minutes it stabilized at 24 A.

BoyntonStu

Because with 28% KOH and no PWM I would be drawing 150 amps or more. If I get rid of the PWM's I will have to cut way back on the KOH to control the amp draw. With the KOH weak I then would have to add alcohol to stop freezing. My effeciency would then drop more. I guess what I am saying is that when forced to choose between a PWM or a low concentration of KOH I would choose the PWM. If I did not have a PWM I could cut down on the wiring by about 20 wires.

Larry