First test results

[MikeP]

We did some testing today using electrodes made from galvanized steel plates used to couple wood beams in building houses. they are about 8 inches by 5 inches and riddled with holes for nails to go through. We ended up with the zinc coating coming off, and into the water, but they worked pretty well, I was impressed.

Configuration was:

+nn-nn+

I spaced them out with tie wraps, so they are evenly spaced.

Looks like a pretty solid design, we might try +nn-nn+nn- to see if it works any better.

-MP

[bagrman]

The process of making HHO is basicly mimics the process of electro plating. Thats' why most generators are ran with stainless.

Latr

[MikeP]

I'm going to try to find some stainless, but our existing setup works well, I guess it will just break down in time.

[eddie323i]

I just got my unit installed in my truck V8, galvanized plates, it works fine the only problem it leaves this nasty brown foam.
and my configuration was: --- nnn +++
and the + positives and - negatives plates all tight together separated by the neutral. it works fine.
im just concerned about the water molecules inside the engine
do you think we'll have a problem later on ?

[Bissli]

Stainless steel single gang light switch covers work well, lowes or the orange store has them.

i'm currently using stainless steel tubes :)

[Bissli]

I just got my unit installed in my truck V8, galvanized plates, it works fine the only problem it leaves this nasty brown foam.
and my configuration was: --- nnn +++
and the + positives and - negatives plates all tight together separated by the neutral. it works fine.
im just concerned about the water molecules inside the engine
do you think we'll have a problem later on ?

i've heard that using other metals besides stainless steel will give off metalic gases. might consider stainless if your worried about long term engine life.

[eddie323i]

Has anybody try to make the stanley mayer cell?
it has some electronic plate that control the amps and volts, i wonder how hard would be to make stanley's cell.

[bagrman]

I've looked at to many designs to know the name of them all, the ones that seem to work the best are the tubes , one inside of the other and the gang box cover plates. For injected cars I know that you need to control the O2 sensor to lean out the motor. and on carburetored cars you would need to jet it down. I have seen them with the plates +nnnn-nnnn+ and they produced a lot of gas.

Latr
Chris

[cemkarakurt]

i am using coustic soda .
keep my plates clean but still i am testing but if you going use coustic soda you need to test in out side of the house or you need good ventilation.
my plates are 7 inc by 3.5 inc i have tray -nn+nn-nn+nn- and 8mm speacing or i use 4 mm speacing it is best prodation i ever get but oll my testing is dane by battery charger 12v by 20 - 25amp.
when i tray to conect the in to car when is car ranning hho cells are sucking to mach power from the car is any one have any information or id have can i limit power frome car to cells.

[MikeP]

Eddie. If you are getting brown anything, that is a function of the electrolyte. Did you build into your system a "blowback" bubbler?

ie:

tube supplying HHO comes out of the creation "tank"... feeds into a downward facing tube housed in a tube of "pure" cold water. bubbles into said water and the seal of the container containing this water feeds to the engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_Gh2ieBUek

That's the best example I can find in a pinch. But you see the Right tube? The top of that needs to be feeding your engine. Not a direct feed from the HHO creation tank.

Otherwise you risk not only putting some unwanted stuff into your intake, But possibly some really funky byproducts!

That's my 2c

-MP

[MikeP]

When you say caustic soda, you really mean lye?

Be careful in your handling of such a chemical.

Safety
Solid sodium hydroxide or solutions containing high concentrations of sodium hydroxide may cause chemical burns (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_burn), permanent injury or scarring, and blindness (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blindness).
Dissolution (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solvation) of sodium hydroxide is highly exothermic, and the resulting heat may cause heat burns or ignite flammables.
Sodium Hydroxide is extremely corrosive, and can react with fats and oils on skin, in a reaction which creates salts. For this reason, sodium hydroxide is very dangerous, and skin should be washed thoroughly with water following contact with this substance.

We got amazing results with epsom salts and a small amount of baking soda.

per 2L of water, 10tbsp of epsom salts, and 3 tbsp of baking soda.

We got some amazing results from 12V, 11.5Amperes

The bubbles were so fast and furious at the top of the jar, that it was pretty loud, and I wish we had a sealed environment to blow a balloon!

[MikeP]

I have seen the tube electrodes, aka the "TurboMax" idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzGz4ms02Vc

They work well.. but I have found so far that the production volume is directly related to the electrolyte mixture and "available" amperage of the source.

The tube is a good idea, but I think you can do better with multiple and properly designed I like to call them "Radiator" cells.

The best production I have ever seen was produced by a radiator style cell.

In an outdoor bucket, with undetermined electrolyte and god knows how much current :|

[bagrman]

I have read and seen where some guys use a heat control type switch that regulates the power going to the unit. You do need to put a circuit breaker in line also.

Latr
Chris

[bagrman]

I have seen this guys vids before and he makes what looks like a good product, his cell is a titanim rod inside of a stainless tube. I think that either design is good and it depends a lot upon the space between the 2 electrodes for how well they produce. what makes the tube design popular is that it's easier to fit in to automobiles. I got some aluminum switch plates and I'm going to try them today to see how they do. anyone hear anything bad about useing aluminum? As for the electro lite we need to stay with backing soda as it is safe and clean. It will be only a matter of time before someone tries somthing dangerious and gets hurt.

Latr
Chris

[fosgate3]

hey... I found this forum when looking for hho forums (imagine that!) and i hope to learn from others.

I'm working with my first design which is more of a "familiarization" process for me. I'm using the stainless steal (SS) drain plates you would find in a shower, cut to fit into a 4" pvc pipe approximately 7 inches total. It's basically two female ends put together with a coupling and a cleanout cap on each end. I have a 3/8" brass fitting coming out the top of canister with 3/8 reinforced clear poly line going to a "bubbler" (or water catcher...i really dont know what the official name is) that catches any water in the flow. It is made from 1 1/2 inch (internal diameter) clear poly tube, about 5 inches of it with an inlet fitting on the bottom and outlet on the top. From there, it goes into a 1/2" line running from my intake pipe to the valve cover. I dont know if that was a good place to run it or not but it was the only line I noted coming off the intake and it seemed like a good point to put in a T and try it out.

Already, this forum has taught me something: I just read that bubbler should have cold water in it. I will remember that in my revisions.

I have a few questions that I've been trying to get help with. I am open to criticism (as long as its respectful) and suggestions so please, don't hesitate to correct me.

One of the questions I have is about electrolyte amounts. Right now, I am using baking soda as it's readily available for me. The canister holds a quart of water and I am using 1/4 teaspoon with that. It seems though, that I am getting a lot of water coming out and into the bubbler, which is bad b/c the bubbler fills up and can threaten to go into the intake. I have the canister mounted with plastic wire ties behind the grill of my 07 Saturn Ion3 and the bubbler about 2 ft away in the engine compartment. From the output of the bubbler to the T fitting in the intake line is about 15 inches. I dont know if the bubbler is filling b/c of electrolyte problems or maybe the canister needs to sit lower than the bubbler as right now they are both at the same height. I thought also that the bubbler may need to be longer.

I am interested in using the SS tubes but I dont know where to get any from. I was also curious about zinc plated metals, such as flashing used on roof jobs.

I look forward to reading your thoughts.