Small Engine HHO testing.

[BoyntonStu]

Zero made 4 videos starting with this one:

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I suggest that if 2 LPM will not affect a 100 CC engine, I would doubt whether 40 LPM would affect a 2000 CC engine in your car.

(Everything else being equal)

FWIW BoyntonStu

[Painless]

In the last few minutes of video #4 where Z summarises the experiment, he states that he is convinced from these trials that we are not on the wrong track for improving ICE thermal efficiency by the addition of HHO, even if we are not 100% efficient in our production of HHO gas.

From these videos, which I watched closely when he first released them, I ascertain them as positive towards the benefits of HHO when generating said HHO using the power from the ICE you are enhancing.

Am I misunderstanding your assessment?

[H2OPWR]

In the last few minutes of video #4 where Z summarises the experiment, he states that he is convinced from these trials that we are not on the wrong track for improving ICE thermal efficiency by the addition of HHO, even if we are not 100% efficient in our production of HHO gas.

From these videos, which I watched closely when he first released them, I ascertain them as positive towards the benefits of HHO when generating said HHO using the power from the ICE you are enhancing.

Am I misunderstanding your assessment?

Russ, I agree with your assesment of Zero's test. With the 30% loss in his DC power converter he actually made nice gains. With that said I beleive the tests really need to be ran with MUCH more than 30ml of gasoline at a time. There are just too many variables for such a small test to be really meaningful. We have a very hard time judging gains with a full tank of gas. None of us would even try to measure a gain in a 5 minute drive. A test such as this needs to be made with several tankful's of gas. I understand that with the limitations on time for a YouTube video a small sample must be run. They would just not satisfy me.

Stu, That was an 11HP Briggs and Stratton engine. Much more than 100cc. A 160cc Honda which is much more effecient than a Briggs is 5 HP.

Larry

[locco]

There are much more variables out on the road w varied temps, revs, fuel qual, terrain and driver mood :)

This is a very controlled test, with the engine running at constant RPM with a constant load, with same air temp/fuel between tests.

[BoyntonStu]

In the last few minutes of video #4 where Z summarises the experiment, he states that he is convinced from these trials that we are not on the wrong track for improving ICE thermal efficiency by the addition of HHO, even if we are not 100% efficient in our production of HHO gas.

From these videos, which I watched closely when he first released them, I ascertain them as positive towards the benefits of HHO when generating said HHO using the power from the ICE you are enhancing.

Am I misunderstanding your assessment?

Russ,

I was not making an assessment.

I am agreeing with you and with Larry that a small engine is a better 'vehicle' for testing HHO than a full sized car engine.

What I meant to say was that if we cannot see positive results with a small engine at 2,3,4,5 LPM, we certainly should not expect to see positive results with an engine 20 times as large.

I really like your new parallel direction of non-HHO MPG improvements.

Here's my list to improve MPG:

1> Maximum tire pressure. (I use 35 PSI)

2> Coast to a light as soon as you see it change to Red.

3> Coast down from 50 to 40 and slowly accelerate back to 50; etc.

4> Do not wait for a friend with the engine running.
(I believe that 1 minute of idling will waste enough gas to get you down the road approximately 1/2 mile)

5> Drive a 5 speed. BTW You can put it back in Neutral for coasting or for stopping without using the clutch.

6> Use 1 size larger diameter tires. (3%-4% larger)

Do you have some tips to share?

FWIW

BoyntonStu

[Painless]

Russ,

I was not making an assessment.

I am agreeing with you and with Larry that a small engine is a better 'vehicle' for testing HHO than a full sized car engine.

What I meant to say was that if we cannot see positive results with a small engine at 2,3,4,5 LPM, we certainly should not expect to see positive results with an engine 20 times as large.

I really like your new parallel direction of non-HHO MPG improvements.

Here's my list to improve MPG:

1> Maximum tire pressure. (I use 35 PSI)

2> Coast to a light as soon as you see it change to Red.

3> Coast down from 50 to 40 and slowly accelerate back to 50; etc.

4> Do not wait for a friend with the engine running.
(I believe that 1 minute of idling will waste enough gas to get you down the road approximately 1/2 mile)

5> Drive a 5 speed. BTW You can put it back in Neutral for coasting or for stopping without using the clutch.

6> Use 1 size larger diameter tires. (3%-4% larger)

Do you have some tips to share?

FWIW

BoyntonStu

Now I understand your direction, Stu.

I've been driving at the speed limit, using my cruise control wherever possible ever since I first started building a system for possible use on my truck. I am able to consistently achieve between 16 and 16.5 MPG (at the fuel pump) by sticking to a set driving style, as long as I haven't been idling my truck for long periods when cell testing etc.

I'm not convinced about cruising, slowing down then slowly accelerating again as a method to save fuel. My experience has shown this to make my MPG worse. I always cancel the cruise control and coast whenever I see a stop light go red ahead or a slow down in the traffic.

Using neutral or de-clutching when coasting will depend on your vehicle design. A lot of modern vehicles incorporate an over-run cutoff which will stop injection of fuel when the throttle position is 0 and the vehicle is over a set RPM. A five speed manual transmission would definitely make fuel consumption better, although I personally need an automatic as a manual is too much for me health wise. Cruise control is also a must for me.

A steady, consistent driving style with gentle acceleration and deceleration is the best tip for anyone. Proper tyre pressures are also important. Over pressure tyres should help by reducing friction, however, you will also suffer premature wear of the tyre.

Oversize tyres in terms of their radius would be a good idea as it would reduce the RPM's needed for a given speed, although I would think you'd also need to consider any extra power needed to turn them?

I really want to look further into the warm air intake. If we can achieve an intake temp to the order of 200 F plus this should have similar benefits to the air restriction in addition to aiding combustion efficiency. I would be really interested in seeing results from this on your vehicle, Stu. Just take the end of your air intake, where the restriction is, and use some flexible metal pipe (like you would use for the air outlet on a dryer) and run it so air is taken from around the exhaust manifold.

Russ.

[H2OPWR]

Russ,

I was not making an assessment.

I am agreeing with you and with Larry that a small engine is a better 'vehicle' for testing HHO than a full sized car engine.

What I meant to say was that if we cannot see positive results with a small engine at 2,3,4,5 LPM, we certainly should not expect to see positive results with an engine 20 times as large.

I really like your new parallel direction of non-HHO MPG improvements.

Here's my list to improve MPG:

1> Maximum tire pressure. (I use 35 PSI)

2> Coast to a light as soon as you see it change to Red.

3> Coast down from 50 to 40 and slowly accelerate back to 50; etc.

4> Do not wait for a friend with the engine running.
(I believe that 1 minute of idling will waste enough gas to get you down the road approximately 1/2 mile)

5> Drive a 5 speed. BTW You can put it back in Neutral for coasting or for stopping without using the clutch.

6> Use 1 size larger diameter tires. (3%-4% larger)

Do you have some tips to share?

FWIW

BoyntonStu

Living in Alaska with such cold temps I can attest to what idleing can do to fuel economy. If I warm up mt truck for even 5 minutes before I leave for work in the morning I only average 11.2 MPG. If I scrape my windows then get in and start my truck and go immediatly I get 12.5 MPG. I lose 10% of my fuel economy just by warming up my truck. Also at a stop light idling in drive my scan guage shows me using .5 gallons per hour. If I shift into neutral removing the torque converter load from the engine i only use .33 GPH.

Larry

[Gary Diamond]

Ouch Larry, what's the cost of gas where you live?

[H2OPWR]

Ouch Larry, what's the cost of gas where you live?

Gas is now $235.00 per gallon regular unleaded. It has never dropped like the lower 48 has. We do not even have a state gasoline tax added anymore. Tesoro controls all the tank farms and 90% of the gas sold in Alaska. They are reaping huge profits here.

In the summer my gas mielage goes up to 13 MPG when I do not have to use 4WD. My truck now has 5000 miles on it and has never even been on the highway. I have a very short 11 minute commute to work. It barely gets up to temp in the winter. I manage 4 dealerships all within 1 block apart. All day I start my truck and drive for 2 minutes then shut it off over and over. That is the reason for such poor gas mileage. If I were driving a more normal commute I would get better but EPA ratings on it are only 14 city and 19 Highway. As we all know it is difficult for most to acheive those ratings anyway.

Larry

[Roland Jacques]

Zero made 4 videos starting with this one:



I suggest that if 2 LPM will not affect a 100 CC engine, I would doubt whether 40 LPM would affect a 2000 CC engine in your car.

(Everything else being equal)

FWIW BoyntonStu

I agree. Unless the amount of it the HHO is speeding up the burn so much that by the time the piston reaches it power position much of the energy / burn has already be used. (timing not being retarded at all)


'Timing is everything";)

Maybe:confused: