PDA

View Full Version : some newbie Q's



Dr. Jerryrigger
02-07-2009, 03:57 PM
I have a crude, but working electrical circuit for a cell or two (max two 40A cells, but I don't think my charging system could handle that). I now need to build a good cell, and go from there. I'm aiming to make this inexpensive as possible, as my time is worth less than my money.

This is for a 2.2L Subaru (horizontal four cylinder aluminum block) coil pack ignition, fuel injected, with one O2 sensor.
What kind of output would be ideal? How much would require adjustment of timing?

Cell construction; what plastics to avoid? Do epoxies like PC-7 or JB weld hold up? Silicone, latex...??? Any good stuff to dig for in the recycling bin?

How dose one go about tweaking O2 sensor output (my sensor's output range runs from 0.2V to 0.8V)?

Q-Hack!
02-07-2009, 04:43 PM
I have a crude, but working electrical circuit for a cell or two (max two 40A cells, but I don't think my charging system could handle that). I now need to build a good cell, and go from there. I'm aiming to make this inexpensive as possible, as my time is worth less than my money.

This is for a 2.2L Subaru (horizontal four cylinder aluminum block) coil pack ignition, fuel injected, with one O2 sensor.
What kind of output would be ideal? How much would require adjustment of timing?

Cell construction; what plastics to avoid? Do epoxies like PC-7 or JB weld hold up? Silicone, latex...??? Any good stuff to dig for in the recycling bin?

How dose one go about tweaking O2 sensor output (my sensor's output range runs from 0.2V to 0.8V)?

I can't speak to the adjustment of timing as that isn't something I have played with yet. However a single EFIE would be needed to adjust your O2 sensor voltage. You will want an EGT meter to monitor your exhaust temperature. This will keep your EFIE adjustments from ruining your engine. Shoot for about 2 Litters of HHO per minute.

To get 2 LPM, your cell construction should be a dry cell. +|||||-|||||+|||||- Using either NaOH or KOH as electrolyte. At 30 Amps.

For plastic end plates, many people have had real good success with the plastic cutting boards from Walmart. There about $10 each and about 1/2" thick.

This stuff works well as gasket material. http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?t=5&m=g1&itemNumber=4007480

The cheapest place to get stainless steel... If you have access to a junk yard, look for a stainless steel sinks or other items that would give you nice large plates. This, of course, means that you will have to cut your own plates. Other options are; some of the guys here can cut good quality plates for a very reasonable price. (check the For Sale section in the forums) While most people swear by 316L stainless steel, I have had good luck with 304L. Theoretically, 304 doesn't last as long, but I haven't destroyed a plate yet, in almost a year playing with HHO.

If you are wanting to stay cheap, then skip the PWM and go with adjusting your electrolyte saturation levels to keep your current at about 28-30 amps.

Understand that most stock car alternators are only good for an extra 15 amps. You will want to look into getting a high performance alternator.

If all of that doesn't scare you away, then now would be a good time to tell you than none of this is any guarantee that you will see mileage improvement. :D

Dr. Jerryrigger
02-07-2009, 05:22 PM
Thanks for the quick reply!
where dose this 1L to 1LPM ratio come from?
A link to an EFIE schematic would be great... what dose EFIE stand for anyway?
EGT meter is just a pyrometer stuck in the exhaust as i understand it, how early on in the exhaust should it be mounted... I'm thinking of a $30 pyrometer off ebay stuck in a hole with some JB weld....

as far as my alternator goes I think I'll leave it be and run a small cell >10A or so, and run a big cell off some home charged deep-cell batt.(s) in my back seat. I only need it to run for about 40min. a day

Q-Hack!
02-07-2009, 10:16 PM
Thanks for the quick reply!
where dose this 1L to 1LPM ratio come from?
A link to an EFIE schematic would be great... what dose EFIE stand for anyway?
EGT meter is just a pyrometer stuck in the exhaust as i understand it, how early on in the exhaust should it be mounted... I'm thinking of a $30 pyrometer off ebay stuck in a hole with some JB weld....

as far as my alternator goes I think I'll leave it be and run a small cell >10A or so, and run a big cell off some home charged deep-cell batt.(s) in my back seat. I only need it to run for about 40min. a day

The 1 to 1 ratio originally came from ZeroFosilFuel on youtube. I think BoytonStu is putting together a large volume test (23 LPM in a pickup truck) The idea is to figure out exactly what is the volume of HHO per Litter of engine that works the best. To be honest, we just don't know for sure. It is something that has been debated quite heavily by many. We do know that NASA did testing with pure hydrogen in an Internal Combustion Engine. They reported an increase in MPG when they added a relatively large amount of hydrogen. I read the NASA report, but not sure where to find it now. I think it is here on the forum someplace. If someone remembers where maybe they can post a link.

EFIE - Electronic Fuel Ignition Enhancer
http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/doc/EfieDescribed.html
Almost all of them work the same, a basic voltage adjustment in line with the O2 sensor signal wire to the computer.
I have the digital version http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68&products_id=186 They are a bit more expensive. Shane Jackson here on the forum built a bunch of ZeroFossilFuel's design. http://www.hhoforums.com/showthread.php?t=2179 Not a bad deal, if he still has them for sale.

EGT meter. I suppose one of those digital laser thermometers would work (or do you mean something different by pyrometer?) Measure the header temperature as soon as it leaves the cylinder, though as long as you measure the same place every time you should be ok. The nice thing about a real EGT meter is that you can take a reading while driving down the road. You will want a good set of baselines at various RPM's to be accurate. Then when you start adjusting the EFIE you will know just how much your HHO is working. Warning: It doesn't take much adjustment on an EFIE to lean your engine out to the point of being dangerous.