The $25 settup test #two

[Dr. Jerryrigger]

Hello,
I've been reading this sight for some time and just started posting yesterday.
My first test ended due to small wire size, i burned up a lot of fuses, even ones that were over sized for the wiring. It was a dangerous set up for a few reasons anyway so i didn't push it to a working apperidge(sp?).
Bad things done with first test:
-mason jar wet tank dangling from plastic vacuum hose by zip tie
-Negative plates grounded to fuel filter clamp (what was I smoking?)
-No good testing equipment (still a problem)

So for my second attempt to kill myself I've switched a lot around.
I'm still using a wet tank with the cheapest electrodes i could find at Ocean State Job Lot (a close out store with mostly cheap Chinese products). $2.39 for three cheese graders of unknown SS. They are curved plates (w/holes) on a wire handle. I sandwiched the three together with zip ties and glass rods (about .200") to separate them. On my first test I had the outer plates connected and negative, for this test I have them as negative, but on separate relays (more toggle switches on my dash = niftier car). This time I've upped the wire and fuses to allow for up to 60A (30A on each side as the relays I'm using are rated for 40A, and i don't want to kill them, they were the most expensive thing in this setup)
The new tank is half a one L soda bottle w/no bubler or hoses, just directly connected to the intake.
Pic's coming soon, but now i'm off to the store for some distilled H2O and some baking soda

[SmartScarecrow]

Hello,
I've been reading this sight for some time and just started posting yesterday.
My first test ended due to small wire size, i burned up a lot of fuses, even ones that were over sized for the wiring. It was a dangerous set up for a few reasons anyway so i didn't push it to a working apperidge(sp?).


glad to see another on the path ... but a warning is in order ...

if you continue with what you are doing, you will quickly become discouraged ... no amount of fiddling with it, tweaking it or torturing it will get you any results that could be classed as interesting ...

now of course if you have never played with electrolysis, this is all fine and dandy ... everybody has to start somewhere ... and you would surprised at the levels of sophistication in design you will encounter with a little research that use condiment cups or light switch covers as the electrode materials ... with a good design and creative execution, some very interesting results can be obtained using some of the most off the wall stuff ...

but, you cant ignore trends ... 5 years ago, all the top of the line devices being played with were huge acrylic boxes ... some of these things were quite beautiful to look at and even the simple ones took a lot of work to build ... but the devices showed us how to achieve levels of efficiency (purely a measure of how much gas can I get for the amount of energy I put in) that were way beyond anything else out there ... but the cost and skill required to build these things put them out of reach for the average hobby experimenter so very few pursued it ...

a few years ago, a fellow named Tero Ranta published a PDF describing a simple device that he had come up with based on a device that had been originally manufactured in the early 1900's by Westinghouse ... this was known as a Tero type device until recently recently when folks started calling them "Dry Cells" ... bottom line is that this design is darn near as efficient as some of the best of old style acrylic box designs but is such a simple device to put together, pretty much anyone can do it if they want to ...

so the moral of the story is, work with what you got to your feet on the ground and decide if its really something you want to play with ... if you get to that point, think about making your first true production device a dry cell design ... they are much easier to construct than anything else out there that even comes close to the kind of performance you can get ... there are many examples of excellent designs available so you are not left to try to re-invent the wheel ... there are even a lot of small firms making pretty decent hobbyist kits out of top quality materials for reasonable money if you dont want to mess with it and just get something quickly that works well ...

[Dr. Jerryrigger]

Thanks for the response Scarecrow,
The test was as successful as I had hoped. I now have the wiring to hook up something worth a damn in place of the tank I have now. I still have lots of questions for people who have been experimenting w/HHO, including some basic stuff like was dose MMW stand for, I don't think you guys are talking about millimeter waves
any good info sights would be appreciated. I read Fuel from Water by Michael a. Peavey, which had some good basic info, but nothing on on-board HHO production. All vehicle applications discussed used bottled gas.
Thanks

[Q-Hack!]

Thanks for the response Scarecrow,
The test was as successful as I had hoped. I now have the wiring to hook up something worth a damn in place of the tank I have now. I still have lots of questions for people who have been experimenting w/HHO, including some basic stuff like was dose MMW stand for, I don't think you guys are talking about millimeter waves
any good info sights would be appreciated. I read Fuel from Water by Michael a. Peavey, which had some good basic info, but nothing on on-board HHO production. All vehicle applications discussed used bottled gas.
Thanks

Yep, I have to agree that cheese graters (with lots of holes) will have a lot of stray current. Not only does this reduce your efficiency, it also forces your amperage up. The dry cell (sometimes called a Tero or brick cell) is definitely the way to go.

MMW stands for Millilitres per Minute per Watt. This website will easily calculate it for you. http://aquauto.com/blogs/nickstone/mmw-calculator