Amoeba Cell - A few new videos that you may find interesting

[BoyntonStu]

Amoeba Cell - A few new videos that you may find interesting

Amoeba Cell Water flow through 1/4" tubing

A garden hose is connected to the Amoeba Cell. There are 15 2x6 plates with a single 1/4" hole in each, and with 0.050" inner tube gaskets. I wonder what the gas production limit is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5al4_6a2-0o

Amoeba Cell Hydroxy Generator 6.59 MMW

Today the cell produced 1 L in 85 seconds with 14.47 Volts at the plates and with 7.4 A. 107 Watts for 706 mL/min generated from 15 - 2x6 304 SS plates. Interestingly this run was after the run in the video where the current was higher. Why it decreased is a good question. Be aware that you must measure the cell voltage and not the source voltage. If you do, you will get false low MMW readings.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umzk8Gf-TNo

I hope that this helps.

BoyntonStu

[BoyntonStu]

Is it me or is your system producing a lot of steam - look at :32-:36 on your you tube video Amoeba Cell Hydroxy Generator 6.59 MMW. It looks like your liter meter is putting out a lot of steam. Maybe it is just the video compression creating that illusion??

Hi and thanks for looking closely at the video.

The cell was cold and not connected to vacuum.

Therefore, what could the cloudy appearance be?

OTOH The output looks identical to the many other cells I have built.

We will keep an eye on it.

Thanks again,

BoyntonStu

[Painless]

Nice work on the new reservoir, Stu. I take it that this needed priming before it would flow? What is your priming method?

I was thinking, you could attach a bulb pump (the type you squeeze with your hand) to the feed line for priming, should it ever be needed.

[BoyntonStu]

Nice work on the new reservoir, Stu. I take it that this needed priming before it would flow? What is your priming method?

I was thinking, you could attach a bulb pump (the type you squeeze with your hand) to the feed line for priming, should it ever be needed.

Thanks Russ,

A few words about priming, etc.

By designing this new reservoir and Amoeba Cell with no bottom holes, we gain many advantages but we also create a few hitches. Having tested this new design, I would never again use bottom holes for reservoirs, bubblers, or cell plates.

Priming: Open the Amoba Cell output tube, (notice the white 1/4 tubing coupler) in the video, hold your finger over the end going back to the bubbler, and simply blow into the bubbler output tube. The pressure inside the bubbler will force the electrolyte up and over the reservoir to siphon into the Amoeba Cell. I attach a 'clean' blowing tube to avoid getting caustic on my lips.

If you hold the output tube up, you can reconnect it before spilling a drop.

A sqeeze bulb woul work too, but a problem remains; how to prevent the gas from going out the inlet tube and therefore stop the siphoning?

My temporary technique is to squeeze the inlet tube near the Amoeba cell with a pair of pliers. This forces the gas to go to the reservoir in the correct direction. When I release the pliers, the fluid and the gas run in the correct direction, as you can see in the video.

I have ordered a check valve as a permanent replacement for the pliers technique. Once primed, the check valve will force automatic startups.

IMHO Having to prime the Amoeba Cell one time and the addition of a check valve is worth not having bottom holes in the cell plates or the reservoir.

I believe that the higher MMW for the new Amoeba Cell, was achieved by eliminating the bottom holes in the plates.

I hope that this helps.


BoyntonStu

[daddymikey1975]

Hey stu.. NICE WORK :-) i really like the no bottom hole design... for the cell and bubbler...

how could we get the fluid between/through our plates WITHOUT having holes...?? dry cell but no holes in the plates??

If this was possible, I bet the MMW efficiency would potentially skyrocket..

on another note, the top hole you have in your plates, are they offest or aligned with each other??

the 'gas output' from the cell, to the bubbler, is this line above or below the water level in your bubbler ?? hard to make out...

thanks for your determination.

mike

[BoyntonStu]

=Hey stu.. NICE WORK :-) i really like the no bottom hole design... for the cell and bubbler...

how could we get the fluid between/through our plates WITHOUT having holes...?? dry cell but no holes in the plates??

A SINGLE 1/4 hole is in all 15 plates drilled 3/4" in from one corner.

The hole is INSIDE the gasket area which is 1/4 wide.

After drilling all holes in the same plae, you flip each plate around so that all holes are staggered.

The single hole plus the staggering is why the Amoeba Cell reaches high efficiency.

I am thinking of stating a thread dedicated to Q&A on the Amoeba Cell.

However, I must be able to moderate it.


If this was possible, I bet the MMW efficiency would potentially skyrocket..

on another note, the top hole you have in your plates, are they offest or aligned with each other??

the 'gas output' from the cell, to the bubbler, is this line above or below the water level in your bubbler ?? ABOVE !! hard to make out...

thanks for your determination.

mike

I hope that this helps,

BoyntonStu

[Stevo]

Hi Stu,

Why don't you just use only 1 bottom hole. Have the water/electrolyte inlet still at the bottom on the opposite side, but just have that one plate with only a bottom hole? This would seemingly still allow siphoning since the reservoir is higher than the cell, but in return force the gas to exit the proper way as the water in the first inlet cell would restrict gas flow.

So, 1 plate with only a bottom hole and 14 plates with only staggered top holes.

-Stephen

[Zymosan]

With the inlet hole up top like that, is there any way to be sure that water is reaching the bottom of the plates, other than gravity? Or is it just shooting across the tops of the plates?

I only ask because I ran my dry cell through solidworks flo simulation. I have holes at the bottom and top of my plates.
But when I ran the sim., at 1 GPM inlet and flowing out to atmospheric pressure, the water just shot across the bottom holes to the opposite end plate and then up that last plate. Some water did go in b/t the plates near the inlet, but not much.

I'll put a pic up here tomorrow when I get to work so you can see what im talking about.

Those of you w/ clear end plates, can you see the water flowing up either of those plates against the end pieces?
Would water flowing up a plate help to dislodge some bubbles?

[BoyntonStu]

Hi Stu,

Why don't you just use only 1 bottom hole. Have the water/electrolyte inlet still at the bottom on the opposite side, but just have that one plate with only a bottom hole? This would seemingly still allow siphoning since the reservoir is higher than the cell, but in return force the gas to exit the proper way as the water in the first inlet cell would restrict gas flow.

So, 1 plate with only a bottom hole and 14 plates with only staggered top holes.

-Stephen

Stephen,

That is good thinking.


My solution is to use a check valve in the inlet line.

If the back pressure with the single bottom hole is greater than all the other top holes plus the staggered plates, your bottom solution will work.

Let's try it.


BTW From another group:

I have built an dry cell designed after BoyntonStu (YouTube). I used
430 stainless steel plates. I know 316L is good too. I built it in 1/2
day and WOW is it performing. I am running at 8 amps, 90 degrees, and I
love the idea of the cell being dry and having the electrolyte in a
separate container. I am going to install it in front of my radiator to
help with the heat.
I do have two Smack's on my 2500 4 wheel drive Chevrolet, I went from 10
MPG to 25 MPG. I like being able to fill the tank easier and the cell
is much easier to make with the Dry Cell. I am already making several
larger one's to get my MPG to a max. I like no leaks from PVC, no
refill problems, I can control the heat better!

Many thanks to E (Smack University on YouTube)and to Stu with
BoyntonStu - Dry Cell Construction (YouTube)


BoyntonStu

[Stevo]

With the inlet hole up top like that, is there any way to be sure that water is reaching the bottom of the plates, other than gravity? Or is it just shooting across the tops of the plates?

I only ask because I ran my dry cell through solidworks flo simulation. I have holes at the bottom and top of my plates.
But when I ran the sim., at 1 GPM inlet and flowing out to atmospheric pressure, the water just shot across the bottom holes to the opposite end plate and then up that last plate. Some water did go in b/t the plates near the inlet, but not much.

I'll put a pic up here tomorrow when I get to work so you can see what im talking about.

Those of you w/ clear end plates, can you see the water flowing up either of those plates against the end pieces?
Would water flowing up a plate help to dislodge some bubbles?

From my experiences, you should be getting plenty of water and probably gas between the plates. Especially with the cell properly flooded, which would be the first step in it all. Amps and voltage stay pretty constant throughout all the tests I've done with my cell, so that tells me that plenty of water is being distributed between the plates. Otherwise, I might have a hard time trying to achieve anything above ~2-3 amps.

[Stevo]

Stephen,

That is good thinking.


My solution is to use a check valve in the inlet line.

If the back pressure with the single bottom hole is greater than all the other top holes plus the staggered plates, your bottom solution will work.

Let's try it.


BTW From another group:

I have built an dry cell designed after BoyntonStu (YouTube). I used
430 stainless steel plates. I know 316L is good too. I built it in 1/2
day and WOW is it performing. I am running at 8 amps, 90 degrees, and I
love the idea of the cell being dry and having the electrolyte in a
separate container. I am going to install it in front of my radiator to
help with the heat.
I do have two Smack's on my 2500 4 wheel drive Chevrolet, I went from 10
MPG to 25 MPG. I like being able to fill the tank easier and the cell
is much easier to make with the Dry Cell. I am already making several
larger one's to get my MPG to a max. I like no leaks from PVC, no
refill problems, I can control the heat better!

Many thanks to E (Smack University on YouTube)and to Stu with
BoyntonStu - Dry Cell Construction (YouTube)


BoyntonStu

Stu,

That's another thing I have yet to try is 430 stainless in place of 316L. We all know the benefits of 316L, but I am hearing more and more about successful use of 430 as well. Cost of plates would be more than cut in half, I think. I've always thought that mounting in front of the radiator is the best idea so long as you have some sort of small mesh grill to prevent any shards from flying up and damaging the generator. It certainly could be done.

[Zymosan]

Staggering the holes at the top is bound to have a positive effect as far as getting the water to flow in there. I tested mine with the top and bottom holes rotated 90deg. every other plate, so no two holes lined up. It did better in the flow simulation but did not produce more bubbles.

430 s.s. would be cheaper but it is magnetic. Surely that wouldn't have any effect on production. Has anyone tried 302 s.s.?