best hho kit to buy?

[mikem1977]

I know, I know, you can build your own and I would love to play around with and experiment with different setups but I dont really have the time rite now. I want a good setup that is not gonna get hot and will produce enough HHO for my little 2.2 liter truck. Ive already bought a POS off ebay that just makes lots of steam and leaks all over the place. Ive been reading through this foruma and many others just trying to get an idea on what to build and at this point if one exists that is tried and true id rather buy now and do my own experimenting later in the year. So, can anyone reccomend a GOOD setup that I wont have heat issues or excess current draw issues with?....Thanks a bunch...theres just so many people advertising "mine is the best" never know whats junk and whats legit!...thanks again...Mike

[mytoyotasucks]

well theres lots for sale on the web - and dont go buy a cheapy off ebay, pay a decent amount.

and dont buy the ones with glass or wire instead of plates.

and theres those that say 316 ss only. but doesnt mean 304 is bad.

then what do u classify as too much heat?

[mikem1977]

thanks...when I say hot I mean the damn water is boiling in the cell. The pos I got from ebay...i posted on here about it...has turned out to suck:)..no matter what I try it just gets hot and eventually boils the water...my truck is YOTA with the 22r..older carbed engine...any ideas..thanks

[mytoyotasucks]

pm'ed ya.

have a look

[mikem1977]

thanks!...what is your configuration and spacing. IM not gonna build one now just curious as to what makes the big heating difference. How much koh do you add to a gallon and how hot does the water get? I had been measuring mine with a laser from the outside...it was readin 150F..when I checked it internally it was 210!....MAKIN lots of steam. The seller is taking it back supposedly, well see if I get a refund:)

[mytoyotasucks]

mine is around 140 to 155 F and only about 5 -10 degree's hotter inside.

with my current setup ive never hit over 175 even with 35 amps(dont recomend 35 amps Though).

and plate gap is at 1/6" - typical.

and KOH is dependant on how many amps u want to draw.

[mikem1977]

Thanks for the input. I have read all over that pvc will start to deform around 150f, the last cell I had I sent back cause it was getting way too hot, it would measure 150 on the outside but was over 200 inside, it waS not pvc but at 200 degrees it was lots of steam. Someone has to make a complete setup that works or maybe not?....IVe tried two now and they both didnt even come close to what they are suppose to do. Id really like to get a setup that works and install it in my truck and see what its gonna do. Looks like im gonna be building my own:)

[mytoyotasucks]

Thanks for the input. I have read all over that pvc will start to deform around 150f

dont know who tolt u that, ive never had a problem.
and all i use is pvc

[wsv3424]

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[H2OPWR]

CPVC is a little more expensive than PVC but has a working temp of 212 and a forming temp over 300 degrees. Just my 2 cents but I would not buy a Gen in pipe at all. Pipes are ok as resevoirs etc. but just an inexpensive alternative for a more expensive set up. Good end plates and good gasket material seperating 316L plates seems to produce best with lower heat. I also would opt for more water capacity, more plates, and less heat. You do not really want stram containing KOH or SaOH in your aluminum intake. I also would like to see the Gen sellers actually do volume tests with temp tests as well as MPG tests on actual vehicles. The tests that you can actually see are vague at best. It is easy to make steam. I would not pay a dime unless I was sure it was making HHO instead of steam.

[mytoyotasucks]

CPVC is a little more expensive than PVC but has a working temp of 212 and a forming temp over 300 degrees. Just my 2 cents but I would not buy a Gen in pipe at all. Pipes are ok as resevoirs etc. but just an inexpensive alternative for a more expensive set up. Good end plates and good gasket material seperating 316L plates seems to produce best with lower heat. I also would opt for more water capacity, more plates, and less heat. You do not really want stram containing KOH or SaOH in your aluminum intake. I also would like to see the Gen sellers actually do volume tests with temp tests as well as MPG tests on actual vehicles. The tests that you can actually see are vague at best. It is easy to make steam. I would not pay a dime unless I was sure it was making HHO instead of steam.

well steam is easy to detect, and not by sight.
if u do use a bubbler the liquid in the bubbler will get hotter if steam is produced. - had this happen.

[coffeeachiever]

I don't know anything about Mytoyotasucks cell, it may be great, but the best cell I've seen is the one EnergyBuildersNetwork is selling. It's the one I modeled mine after. My cell stays around 90 degrees or so and puts out a furious amount of gas. I'll be selling and installing mine as soon as my field testing is done. The only temperature issue I have is the relay switch is too small and it is getting too hot. Easy to fix.

[H2OPWR]

Everyone do not think you have to boil water to get steam. And unless you have a set up that breaks up the big bubbles in your bubbler only the outside surface even comes in contact with water. Bath water steams up your mirror and a very hot bath is 104 degrees. The goal should be under 100 degrees. No where near 140 or so that many cell's run at.

[coffeeachiever]

I have to agree with H2OPWR. The reason I got away from the open bath cells was the inability to effectively control thermal runaway. I was never sure if my units were more efficient as they warmed up or if I was getting a lot of steam. I know some say that a little steam is good, but I'm not here to debate that. I'm making HHO.
To address Mike's question of what is the best cell to get, the answer is a dry cell. Those that have gone the way of the dry cell will tell you that they will never go back to the open bath design. Dry cells make more gas and they stay cool. The amount of gas you make is easy to control with electrolyte concentrations and wiring configuration.
Wet cells are great to cut your teeth on. The supplies are cheap and they can be built quickly and easily. Once you grasp the fundamentals though, it's time to graduate to the next step.
This is just my humble opinion and in no way is meant to criticize anyones work who has had any measure of success with the open bath design.

[mikem1977]

I totally agree!...My whole thought has been that once I see some improvement, if I do:)...thats when I will move up to the dry cell. SO the kit that EBN has is a kit from what I understand, not assembled?...that may be the route I go instead of screwing with trying to make all the plates myself...the dry cell that Smack is advertising looks pretty sweet as well....we'll see what happens>>>>

[Realtyroy]

If you want a cell that works well without a lot of fuss than I'd say for sure the dry cell is the way to go. I started a forum HHO Scambusters to find out which sellers are good and which are just selling steam machines. I advertise that I will do independent testing of their units and post the results to the board but I haven't been able to get any sellers to send in their boosters for testing. Some have told me they are on the way but I haven't seen yet!

Looking at most of the sellers that I know of that make dry cells they are all pretty similar so it really boils down to going with a seller that has a good reputation.

I wanted sellers to send me their cells so you would have someone testing these out and their would be no guessing weather it was good or not but from all that I know the EBN group are a pretty fair bunch of guys that do the best that they can to build a good product.

I would trust anything that Zerofossilfuel sells as he puts the time into research before he talks about it.

Good Luck!