89 MPG at best, 58 MPG winter average, 60-70 MPG summer average.

[wulfram]

I've been HHO injecting since March. I've kept an updated compile of my official tests (via road trip) since April. My best results were with a very primitive and crappy generator (to which I believe steam injection played a large role). My current results (which are still terrific, just not as terrific) may be partially or mostly attributed to the lack of maintenance to my car.

My air filter is dirty and clogged (cone filter), the most oxygen it gets is through the HHO injection. My O2 sensor is either malfunctioning, or is in proper sync and as state - my air filter is to blame.

I drive around 350 miles per week in the same car and I take frequent 680 mi(one way) road trips down south.

The following is a copy of my updates Log as it progressed. Go right to the end if you want the current, or start at the beginning if you want the long haul.
I post this for any other Ford Probe owners out there who want to give this a shot, or for anyone who may figure out why my particular model is doing so well without any sensor mods.

[wulfram]

Post 1: April 2008

I performed my first road test since I gutted my HHO gen and rebuilt it.
Here's the specs:
2 SS plates
Elect. Mix = 1 tablespn b.soda, 1 shot glass distilled white vinegar,
1/3 cup %70 isop.alcohol, 2 capfulls hydrogen peroxide.
Copper tubing for both lines (to PCV and Air intake BEFORE MAF).
Tin foil around O2 sensor (only 1 sensor)

Vehicle: 95 ford probe, 2.0L, 5 speed, 4 cyl. 180,000+ miles.

Result on yesterday's road test: 57 MPG! (coming from an original 28 before the gen, and up to 45 before the stainless steel plate mod, copper tubing, and new elect.mixture).

-----------------------
Post 2: NEW UPDATE MAY 5th 2008

Yesterday I embarked on a 680 mile interstate trip. I scrutinized my movements and adjustments as much as possible during the trip and performed 3 mpg tests. The terrain was mostly flat and straight with few curves.
Here are the mpg tests and adjustments as occurred:

1st test: Topped off tank, drove 61 miles. Topped of tank and took .978 gal to top off again. = 62.37 mpg
Adjustment made after: Opened bubbler valve 2 turns more to allow more outside air return to jar per vaccuum taken out.

2nd test: Topped tank, drove 78 miles. Took 1.07 gal to top off = 72.89 mpg .
Notes: Water level decreased to little above half full - thus original volume of baking soda reacts to less water present creating more gas.
Adjustment made after: Increased bubbler valve 1 more turn.

3rd test: Topped tank, drove 103 miles. Gas needle had barely budged and I became suspicous at 103 miles that gauge may had reacted badly to all these experiments. Pulled over exit at 103 miles and took 1.15 gal to top off tank. = 89.56 mpg!
Notes: Water level dropped a little below half full and more gas was being produced in greater volume - again I suspect because the same amount of baking soda was present in a lesser amount of water with the same amount of electricity available. If there are better theories out there, I would be very interested in to know how to continue duplicating these results.
Adjustment made after: opened bubbler valve more to compensate for the quickly depleting water supply.

Drove next 300 miles on under a quarter tank (I have a 15.5 gal tank)and stopped counting because I really needed to get to my destination on time.

Other observations: Drove no more than 70 mph and no less than 60 mph for whole trip (except for starts and stops at exits). After each adjustment and length of trip, less and less did I need to touch accelerator pedal to achieve same speeds. Eventually, I had to adjust to tapping the pedal on and off to prevent speeding.
Also, water ran out completely at around 80 miles left to go in the trip and I noticed because much more depression on accel pedal was required to achieve speed. (Soon stopped along road to pop the hood and confirm that this was correct and I was out of water)
Gas needle started to decline at normal rate thereafter.

Mods to be made: A quick-fill plug on the lid to remove and fill with pre-mixed electrolyte kept in trunk of car.
Habits to be made: Not filling jar all the way up. Not screaming at top of my lungs like an idiot at gas stations when learning about higher mpg (when I hit my 89 mpg, I lost it in laughter and whoops - got alot of concerned looks).
-------------------------------------------
NOTES for the above:
1.I’ve stopped using baking soda completely. It rusts 304 l stainless like it were pure iron and the water needed changed after about every day.
2.No longer using the 2-plate design. I met up with a local research group who gave me a few free designs to try out and even provided me with a newer design generator in exchange for my submission of my results and vehicle for testing.
3.The tin foil wrap still remains on my o2 sensor and I’ve never removed it. Although there is no proof it does anything, I’m not going to tamper with success.
-----------------
Post 3: May 24, 2008

Quick update:
due to recommendation from people here and also from a local research group I have been studying with, I have officially switched my electrolyte to Sodium Hydroxide.
I can't believe I've waited this long to do it! It's an electrolyte wonder.
Only takes less than 1/2 teaspoon and the water stays crystal clear! Been running it for 3 days now and no residue at all! The plates are clean as ever with no corrosion and the HHO output is incredible. It's doing with 1/2 teaspoon what would take 2 tablespoons of baking soda alone to do, and the water is remaining relatively cool after hours of use.
No more baking soda for me Will add rubbing alcohol in the winter though.
------------------------------------------------
Post 5: June 3rd 2008

Notes:

1. I only use NaOH and rubbing alcohol now. Nothing else. My temperature stays relatively cool, but I have mine positioned far enough from the engine (per my photos) and I don't use that much NaOH. (a road test last week (averaging 75-80 mph) revealed 82 mpg. So I'm still up there)

2. I rebuilt my gen since the long road trip with the 89mpg results. I met up with a local research team that -to my delight- focus their efforts on hydrogen technology. I kinda stole my new gen design from them. It works a bit better than my old gen as it doesn't get quite as warm and the plates are a little closer together (not much though). They also recommended I use NaOH.
-----------------------------------------------------
Post 6: update June 23 2008

UPDATE:
Road test with wife's 93 v6 auto-trans Ford Probe: ***my F.Probe is a 4 cyl, hers is a v6***
-NO o2 sensor mod.
-62 mile road test (Mountain and Interstate)
-average speed between 50-80 mph
-16 oz. generator given to me by a lovely local research group (I'm a test subject now )
-one line going into the PCV valve, NO air intake line.

RESULTS:
- WAS getting average 20.5 MPG city/highway combined
- NOW getting average 49 MPG city/mountain/highway

Next tests for this vehicle:
-Highway miles only.
-Backroads only.
-With Air intake also installed to.
-With O2 tin wrap with PCV line alone.
-With O2 tin wrap with Air intake line also.
-Without O2 wrap with PCV and Air Intake line.
------------------------------
NEW!
Here's a video of my setup on my car and my wife's car. I apologize for the first 40 seconds of the video as it is without sound. The sound comes in after 40.
My Setup on Youtube Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pILSNhFWWGQ)
------------------------------------------

Updates: July 8

Installed a 16 oz. Generator on my mother's 1995 Saturn, 4 cyl, manual trans.
Installed to the PCV location only. No o2 sensor adjustment "yet."

Road test on total mountain miles: 48.7 mpg (probably more on interstate).

Installing a second generator to air intake line soon.

-----------------------------------------------

Update on my Father's 2000 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, auto trans:
Installed 32 oz. generator to PCV.
Results: not so hot. 15 mpg. Has noticeable more HP though.

Adjustments to be made: going to install the EFIE I bought from Mike to the o2 sensor at the CC. Have reason to believe that for once, the o2 sensors will be an issue here.

.........................
Another New Video.
Here is the latest gen on my car. Yet even more HHO/min output at less amps and with less volume electrolyte. The electrolyte mix in this video is ONLY dist. water and 1/4 tspn NaOH.

Video. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4yABG1jn9Q)

....................................
UPDATE OCT 6, 2008.

Back from the trip (10 hours down, 27 hours dottle, 10 hours back ).

On the way down I stopped once toward the end of the trip.
With two generators (as seen on my last videos.. one air intank, one PCV), an average ambient air temp - 150F, an average amp draw on PCV gen - 6 amps (at operating temp), the voltmeter at about 13V the whole time (with the gens, my laptop plugged into an AC converter..running into my stereo system and with headlights on), and my cruise control at 70 MPH nearly the entire time ... I got 64 MPG.

9.37 gallons on almost 600 miles.
On the way back I did two 100 mile top off's and one after a 200 mile stretch.
No cruise control on the first two top off's:

1. 76 MPG (100 mi)
2. 72 MPG (100 mi)
3. 59 MPG (200 mi)

Additional info:
-On the trip down, I didn't stop any to adjust the vacuum valve. When checked at the end of the trip, the PCV water level was down to the bottom two plates. The Air intake was still mostly full.
-Cruise control is great on my back, hard on the gas. I go gently uphills and light on the gas (or neutral) downhill and keep around the same speed. Cruise control tramps the gas pedal up hills and pulls back downhill (as it cannot shift neutral nor does it allow the speed to accel a little going downhill).

[wulfram]

-------------------------------------
New update 10-24-08

NEW UPDATE:

Last week, average outdoor temps (while driving) stood around 60 F, and the ambient engine temp wouldn't peak past 145 F. My average MPG (hwy and mountain) was 63 MPG.

This week, outdoor temp has finally been dipping down to freezing and below (I live near the top of a mountain and it dipped to 24 F last Sunday night). While driving, the ambient temp hasn't peaked past 135-ish F, and my mileage on a hwy trip (on wednesday from 5:30 am to 7:10 am) was 61 MPG and averaging 54 MPG overall on a half tank of gas (from wednesday afternoon until this evening when I filled back up).
My idle RPM's have gone up to 1500 when coasting or sitting still. They do drop after driving for about 25 minutes (car warms up I guess).

So I do believe that the colder weather is having a negative effect on my mileage. The rising RMP's was normal last year when it was cold; but I didn't have HHO installed then. Since it's doing it again this year, I assume my O2 sensor still is working as I can't think of anything else that would be reving up my RMP's when it's cold.
Also, since the ambient air temp is dropping (and it takes it longer to reach the peak) ... that means cooler HHO gas.

[DrBrown]

It's important to realize that with colder ambient air temps the engine works harder to get up to optimum operating temperature. If you let the engine warm up for 4-5 minutes w/ the HHO turned off before driving I think you will find the milage will increase a tad. Most people dismiss this but when I let my engine just get somewhat warm before driving in winter it prevents the mpg's from dropping drastically in the cold. The oil is thicker at first in both the tranny and engine so it takes more power to move the car.
You should consider using redline MTF in your tranny. I used it in my probe and loved it. The gearbox stays nice and loose even when its below freezing and it keeps its viscosity hot or cold. That certainly cant hurt your milage!

As for the o2 sensor, the FS 2.0 didnt have a lot to it as far as ECU setup. Basically you have one o2 telling the ECU what the A/F is and thats the only major form of fuel map adjustments though it MIGHT use the engine coolant temp sensor on the head for a open loop reference like the KL03 does. The single o2 OBD1 is probably why you have such good results. OBD2 ECU's are just plain awful, like your dad's exploder. My 02 taurus has 4 o2 sensors and its just as gay! Thanks for posting your total results again.

[nvtowing]

What's your baseline (without HHO) mileage?

And how are you calculating your MPG?

[hydrotinkerer]

Hey wulfrum are you avoiding wboggs over here? HAHA just joking.
Glad to see you here!

[wulfram]

Hey wulfrum are you avoiding wboggs over here? HAHA just joking.
Glad to see you here!

lol.. "shhhhhhh" ;)

[wulfram]

What's your baseline (without HHO) mileage?

And how are you calculating your MPG?

It's been ages, but it was around 28-31 (city/hwy). The hwy miles got a little better right before I added the first gen.

I was calculating by driving "x" number of miles and then "topping off" the tank and doing the math (see the first log entry of the post above).
Because of how aware I've been every time I've added gas, I've learned the approximate gallon equiv. of the first 2/8's of my gas meter. I never let it go below a half tank. Whenever I want to do another official mileage test though.. I still use the top-off method after 1/4 from full.

[wulfram]

It's important to realize that with colder ambient air temps the engine works harder to get up to optimum operating temperature. If you let the engine warm up for 4-5 minutes w/ the HHO turned off before driving I think you will find the milage will increase a tad. Most people dismiss this but when I let my engine just get somewhat warm before driving in winter it prevents the mpg's from dropping drastically in the cold. The oil is thicker at first in both the tranny and engine so it takes more power to move the car.
You should consider using redline MTF in your tranny. I used it in my probe and loved it. The gearbox stays nice and loose even when its below freezing and it keeps its viscosity hot or cold. That certainly cant hurt your milage!

As for the o2 sensor, the FS 2.0 didnt have a lot to it as far as ECU setup. Basically you have one o2 telling the ECU what the A/F is and thats the only major form of fuel map adjustments though it MIGHT use the engine coolant temp sensor on the head for a open loop reference like the KL03 does. The single o2 OBD1 is probably why you have such good results. OBD2 ECU's are just plain awful, like your dad's exploder. My 02 taurus has 4 o2 sensors and its just as gay! Thanks for posting your total results again.

Thanks for the Probe-sense info. Mine's a manual btw.