volomike
06-29-2008, 02:53 AM
My father-in-law and I went online and found this Power Tube Kit on YouTube. We assembled it but took a couple shortcuts. Well, sure enough, for two solid minutes on two different times, we managed to get a LOT of HHO to come out of the electrolyzer, bubbling through our bubbler. For our rural community near Myrtle Beach, we were like making history and were very excited.
We have the device with a bubbler as our fire arrestor, and we're feeding it into the air intake area above the fuel injector, rather than going directly into the engine manifold.
However, on the first two solid minutes, we turned the engine off to see the effect and were pleased to see we had wired things that the electrolysis cut off when the engine cut off. But then we turned it on again, and it ran well for another two solid minutes, but then we blew a 25amp fuse.
Here's how we have the thing configured, and perhaps you can offer advice.
- No pulse wave modulator. We first started with a light dimmer for AC power, but then pulled that off and haven't experimented with it since. We never could get it to work, but it might be for some other reason.
- Used about 3 heaping tablespoons of baking soda in 2 cups of water. That's probably too much.
- Used aluminum sheeting inside the electrolyzer instead of stainless steel. Our local hardware store didn't have stainless. We figured we'd stick with this because at worst all it will do is corrode and we can replace it.
- Put our positive wire where the negative wire should be. Don't know if this matters?
- We pulled power under the steering where the fusebox was with one of these extenders you add on for CB radios and towing lights. We stuck it on the 20v/15amp item that runs the cigarette lighter. We kept blowing fuses and so we moved up from 15 to 20 to 25amps. This lasted longer, but then when it blew the 25amp fuse, I put my fingers down there and the wire was extremely hot. However, George said that the wire at that point was a very low guage and might be the culprit. Now, the wire going to the electrolyzer was a decent guage of 10. I think this also created a chain effect because I quickly reached into the vehicle and felt the electrolyzer was fairly warm, and the thick guage wire was warm too.
- We're not using a relay. George thinks we should.
- We're running this right into the fuel injector area, rather than right into the air intake manifold. George feared not only how expensive it will be if we have to replace the air intake manifold, but how it might burn the hose and start a fire, as well as how it might not be a tight enough seal and weaken the vacuum.
Anyway, that was Saturday. On Sunday, which I guess is now since it's 1:48am when I post this, we're going to go back at this again. Let me know if you have any advice.
P.S. I have zero auto mechanic skills. I'm just a logical thinker because I do web development. George is a former auto mechanic, but he got out of that business at least 30 years ago.
We have the device with a bubbler as our fire arrestor, and we're feeding it into the air intake area above the fuel injector, rather than going directly into the engine manifold.
However, on the first two solid minutes, we turned the engine off to see the effect and were pleased to see we had wired things that the electrolysis cut off when the engine cut off. But then we turned it on again, and it ran well for another two solid minutes, but then we blew a 25amp fuse.
Here's how we have the thing configured, and perhaps you can offer advice.
- No pulse wave modulator. We first started with a light dimmer for AC power, but then pulled that off and haven't experimented with it since. We never could get it to work, but it might be for some other reason.
- Used about 3 heaping tablespoons of baking soda in 2 cups of water. That's probably too much.
- Used aluminum sheeting inside the electrolyzer instead of stainless steel. Our local hardware store didn't have stainless. We figured we'd stick with this because at worst all it will do is corrode and we can replace it.
- Put our positive wire where the negative wire should be. Don't know if this matters?
- We pulled power under the steering where the fusebox was with one of these extenders you add on for CB radios and towing lights. We stuck it on the 20v/15amp item that runs the cigarette lighter. We kept blowing fuses and so we moved up from 15 to 20 to 25amps. This lasted longer, but then when it blew the 25amp fuse, I put my fingers down there and the wire was extremely hot. However, George said that the wire at that point was a very low guage and might be the culprit. Now, the wire going to the electrolyzer was a decent guage of 10. I think this also created a chain effect because I quickly reached into the vehicle and felt the electrolyzer was fairly warm, and the thick guage wire was warm too.
- We're not using a relay. George thinks we should.
- We're running this right into the fuel injector area, rather than right into the air intake manifold. George feared not only how expensive it will be if we have to replace the air intake manifold, but how it might burn the hose and start a fire, as well as how it might not be a tight enough seal and weaken the vacuum.
Anyway, that was Saturday. On Sunday, which I guess is now since it's 1:48am when I post this, we're going to go back at this again. Let me know if you have any advice.
P.S. I have zero auto mechanic skills. I'm just a logical thinker because I do web development. George is a former auto mechanic, but he got out of that business at least 30 years ago.