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View Full Version : ** DO NOT USE ** McMaster Carr Check Valve 47245K37



Painless
10-15-2008, 09:17 AM
I've been recommending this check valve, part number 47245K37 from McMasterCarr, as I have been using it for quite a few months now without problems. The website describes it as follows:

" PVDF Body with Viton Diaphragm— For external applications requiring superior chemical and abrasion resistance. Temp. range is -70° to +250° F"

Well, this morning this check valve failed and my reservoir sucked vinegar from the cleansing bubbler back into itself. As you can imagine, the acid in the vinegar combined well with the base KOH solution.

Apologies to all that I have recommended this valve to that have used it, it was fine for me for many months until now.

resago
10-15-2008, 10:22 AM
has anyone found a solid reliable check valve?

Farmercal
10-15-2008, 10:38 AM
Why not just use two check valves inline with each other. Then you can periodically pull them off and check them to ensure they still provide protection. I know you shouldn't have to do that but any product can fail at any time.

HHOinKY
10-15-2008, 10:41 AM
Just ordered one last night....damn.

Painless
10-15-2008, 10:52 AM
I've been thinking this through whilst flushing and refilling my system this morning, the one thing that has changed yesterday is that the strenght of my electrolyte has gone up considerably. Perhaps this is what caused it to fail?

Instead of a check between the gen and the bubbler, I think a safer idea would be to use a solenoid valve attached to a breather hose on the gen. The valve should be normally open but closed when current is supplied.

HHOinKY
10-15-2008, 02:21 PM
Did the KOH eat the valve some maybe?

Jaxom
10-15-2008, 06:18 PM
The solenoid valve is a great idea, it could simply be wired in parallel with the genny and T'd into the output tube. You could also use a second check valve which allows fresh air INTO the generator, to prevent the buildup of vacuum when the genny cools. Folks who plumb their HHO directly into the intake manifold may not want to do this, as it will allow a sort of "bypass airflow" through the genny and into the engine which may throw off idle speed and cause trouble codes.

Painless
10-15-2008, 06:29 PM
The solenoid valve is a great idea, it could simply be wired in parallel with the genny and T'd into the output tube. You could also use a second check valve which allows fresh air INTO the generator, to prevent the buildup of vacuum when the genny cools. Folks who plumb their HHO directly into the intake manifold may not want to do this, as it will allow a sort of "bypass airflow" through the genny and into the engine which may throw off idle speed and cause trouble codes.

I did have a second check valve attached to the lid of my genny in this fashion, so that air could flow in and not out. I had an issue with any production over approx 1.25 LPM being lost which I determined was somehow escaping through this valve. At first, I suspected that it's barb connection was the culprit, but that was not so. It was the same McMaster Carr valve as I previously mentioned.

I'm wondering where one of these solenoid valves can be sourced from and for how much.

DigitalMocking
10-15-2008, 08:55 PM
I've got a friend who works for a pneumatic company, he's got stainless steal checkvalves available for around 40 bucks. I'm going to have one here this weekend to play around with a bit.

cully
10-16-2008, 04:19 AM
I'm wondering where one of these solenoid valves can be sourced from and for how much.


go to your local scrap yard these type of valves are fitted to Subaru Renault citron and many more car makes

the valves control the vacuum that activates the waste gates on the turbo

they are 12volt 3 way solinoid valves

Jaxom
10-16-2008, 01:13 PM
They can also be found as "EGR vacuum switching valves" on many Toyota, Honda, and Nissan products. It'll have two 1/8" ports at right angles on one end and a single 1/8" port on the other end, and usually a single bolt with a 10mm head holding it to a bracket or something. One port is common, the other two are normally open and normally closed, although I'll have to look up which is which. You could get one from an auto parts store, but junkyards are better because you can snip off 6" of wiring harness to go with it. That makes the install much easier.

HHOinKY
10-16-2008, 09:28 PM
I got my stuff today and it looks fine. It's the same as a turbo piece I took off a saab. I guess I have 2 now.

Zymosan
11-07-2008, 10:33 AM
Just so you know, according to the handy-dandy chemical resistance chart in the Grainger catalog Viton and KOH are not compatible.
It says "severe effect, not recommended.