View Full Version : Can stainless be de-magnetized?
gizzy
10-01-2008, 09:09 AM
I heard that this can be done. I hear it happens in cheap stainless. Any thoughts?
Smith03Jetta
10-01-2008, 09:15 AM
The higher quality of stainless that you have the less magnetic it is.
redneckgearhead34
10-01-2008, 11:26 AM
I have some huge plates of ss that I want to cut up and use for a generator but I have put a magnet to them and you can feel a slight pull from the magnet. I was wondering if it is ok to use them?
mytoyotasucks
10-01-2008, 01:39 PM
i have read for the cheaper stainless, its better to have all the same , so here a pic of how to.
gizzy
10-01-2008, 06:42 PM
[QUOTE=mytoyotasucks;14646]i have read for the cheaper stainless, its better to have all the same , so here a pic of how to.[/QUOTEThat's interesting. Answer me this. So magnetism is a less grade of SS and the metal rusting is what could cause the water to look black. Is this killing the HHO production?
Carolinablue
10-01-2008, 09:04 PM
As I understand it, it's not that the lower grade of ss has magnetism in it, it's just that there is more carbon present making it more magnetic like regular steel. The higher grade ss has little or no carbon, thus not attracted by a magnet. So there is really no demagnetising to do on ss.
mytoyotasucks
10-01-2008, 10:33 PM
i have read for the cheaper stainless, its better to have all the same , so here a pic of how to.
That's interesting. Answer me this. So magnetism is a less grade of SS and the metal rusting is what could cause the water to look black. Is this killing the HHO production?
actually the reason there is black stuff on the ss is because it was not cleaned properly to start with. :eek:
gizzy
10-02-2008, 08:15 AM
actually the reason there is black stuff on the ss is because it was not cleaned properly to start with. :eek:
I cleaned my plates after I sanded them and wore gloves during assembly. I ran my electrolite thru my generator 4 times and siphoned it off. Then I had a leak and had to do a repair that's when I noticed this coffee looking water...:eek:is right.
mytoyotasucks
10-02-2008, 11:43 AM
I cleaned my plates after I sanded them and wore gloves during assembly. I ran my electrolyte Through my generator 4 times and siphoned it off. Then I had a leak and had to do a repair that's when I noticed this coffee looking water...:eek:is right.
that is weird that u still had discolored water still, were the plates corroded?
redneckgearhead34
10-02-2008, 12:27 PM
Do anybody have a recommended cleaing process to help prevent contamination of electrolyte solutions?
Smith03Jetta
10-02-2008, 01:42 PM
GoJo Hand Cleaner with Pumice... Clean your hands first, then scrub the plates with your hands and GoJo. Rinse off the plates really good under tap water. Do a final rinse with deionized water or Distilled water. Let them dry in the sun. Wash your hands in GoJo again prior to touching the dry metal plates or before assembly.
That will definitely solve your problem IF YOU ARE USING THE RIGHT KIND OF STEEL TO START WITH. Use no less than 316L stainless. The Magnetism is not your problem, it is just a symptom. It's just a clue that there is more Iron in the steel and less of the good corrosion proof metals.
gizzy
10-03-2008, 04:05 PM
GoJo Hand Cleaner with Pumice... Clean your hands first, then scrub the plates with your hands and GoJo. Rinse off the plates really good under tap water. Do a final rinse with deionized water or Distilled water. Let them dry in the sun. Wash your hands in GoJo again prior to touching the dry metal plates or before assembly.
That will definitely solve your problem IF YOU ARE USING THE RIGHT KIND OF STEEL TO START WITH. Use no less than 316L stainless. The Magnetism is not your problem, it is just a symptom. It's just a clue that there is more Iron in the steel and less of the good corrosion proof metals.
Sir , so 304SS or 305ss is a cheap grade off SS. And this is the reason for the corrossion? An\d also yes at the time I used GOJO orange but without the pumice.
Sir , so 304SS or 305ss is a cheap grade off SS. And this is the reason for the corrossion? An\d also yes at the time I used GOJO orange but without the pumice.
Gojo with or without pumnice will still leave a residual film on your plates no matter how many times you rinse in distilled water.A better method is after sanding the plates(with the use of rubber gloves) soak them in a high concentration of koh or naoh for a few days.This will remove impurities present in most lower grade of ss.After soaking rinse well with distilled water several times and always use rubber gloves,this includes assembly of the cell.Even after washing your hands well with any type hand cleaner,the oils in your skin are still present and constantly migrating to the surface of your skin,so always wear rubber gloves when handling plates.
mytoyotasucks
10-05-2008, 11:43 AM
CLR works reallty good also.
CLR works reallty good also.
Havn't used clr yet,does it have any type acids in it?I know it's used for removing rust and hard water stains.
mytoyotasucks
10-05-2008, 12:23 PM
i use 30% CLR and 70% water, works good for me, no more residue on plates.
VanHalen
10-05-2008, 07:49 PM
i use 30% CLR and 70% water, works good for me, no more residue on plates.
after sanding?
mytoyotasucks
10-06-2008, 12:36 AM
after sanding?
ya after sanding.
let soak for a few hours and move them around every so often.
H2OPWR
10-06-2008, 01:27 AM
The only real lasting thing that causes the discolored water and the build up on the plates is low grade stainless. I have experimented with most grades starting with the lowest. The best results are with 316L. Make sure the 316 is L grade. L stands for low carbon and resists corrosion. Corrosion is what causes the brown water and build up on your plates. Yes it is slightly more expensive but will stand the test of time. What costs more Replacing your electrodes or starting with the correct grade the first time.
gizzy
10-07-2008, 09:23 AM
The only real lasting thing that causes the discolored water and the build up on the plates is low grade stainless. I have experimented with most grades starting with the lowest. The best results are with 316L. Make sure the 316 is L grade. L stands for low carbon and resists corrosion. Corrosion is what causes the brown water and build up on your plates. Yes it is slightly more expensive but will stand the test of time. What costs more Replacing your electrodes or starting with the correct grade the first time.
Of course the corect grade of stainless but, in the mean-time I re-built my generator from a seller at ebay. The thing tought me alot and also I modified the water4gas thing with 305SS a neighbor gave me. I thought that was cool and works great. Not to bad on the corrosion. They are 1" plates. If I'm not mistaken grades of SS is chromium amounts.
gizzy
10-07-2008, 09:31 AM
Are you saying that CLR as a cleaner...Interesting. I use it when I use a pressure washer to remove rust looking stains on my vinal siding from my sprinkler system. So are you guys saying that if your unit is a sealed unit , and without opening it?
gizzy
10-07-2008, 09:35 AM
Havn't used clr yet,does it have any type acids in it?I know it's used for removing rust and hard water stains.
Read what I posted above. The stuff works great fantastic. I forget what exactly the chemicals in it. It is safe. No enviromental factors in it nor corrosive properties to clean rust and so on. If Im also thinking right is just let it sit for a while and rinse.