Anyone in the know about breakers?

[Painless]

I installed a 30 amp breaker on my HHO system, the thermal kind, the breaker got a good test when my system ran up to 45 amps. Even after 15 minutes of this sustained high current, the 30 amp breaker did not act and terminate the circuit.

I took the breaker apart and can't see any defects that I can spot, but I'm worried that the breaker I replaced it with will be just as useless.

Here's the breaker, can anyone in the know offer any explanations as to why it didn't do it's job? It was connected correctly, according to the legends on it.

http://www.moore-or-less.org/%7Eruss/images/breaker.jpg

[Riddler250]

those look just like the ones we used to use at work. We stopped using them because they dont function quiclkly enough. at 15a over rating it will take a while before it does its job. by that time things can get hot and melt or burn. that breaker is good for dead shorts, and thats about it. Find a breaker that operates uch faster

[DaneDHorstead]

Painless

The breaker works off of a bimetal strip, much like you find in a thermostat, for you house heater, or the blinking lights on a christmas tree.

Obviously, the breaker for the christmas lights, work faster, but they use different metals.

The theory behind it, is that two metal strips, bonded together, expand, or contract at different rates of speed. But being bonded together, they will coil (looser, or tighter), as they expand. Several of these designs just use a metal contact (like a micro switch, breaking it's electrical contact), while others are fastened to mercury viles, that tip from a horizontal axis, to make or break the two electrical contacts, at the end of the small glass capsule.

The breakers shown, simply curl away from electrical contact, as the two metals react differently to heat (one curling, to a greater degree, than the other).

But, that reaction takes time!

[Painless]

Thanks for the clarification guys, time to avoid these from now on.

I'd been using a 30 amp ceiling up until now, but want to move on to about 40-45 amps. I've already replaced the melted relay with a 70 amp model and on my way to work today I picked up a fuse holder complete with some 50 amp fuses. I think I'll feel much safer using a regular fuse until I can locate a 50 amp breaker that's more suitable for this application.

[H2OPWR]

Are you completely sure that your vehicle's charging system has 50 amps to spare. Most are no where close to that if a heavy duty alternator has not been installed. It is easy to find out. Just look up the amp rating of your alternator. Start your car turn on everything electrical and test the output of your alternator with a multi-meter.

[Painless]

Are you completely sure that your vehicle's charging system has 50 amps to spare. Most are no where close to that if a heavy duty alternator has not been installed. It is easy to find out. Just look up the amp rating of your alternator. Start your car turn on everything electrical and test the output of your alternator with a multi-meter.

Already been through this exercise, my ram has a 136 amp alternator. I'm not planning on using the whole 50 amps my fusing circuit is rated for.

[precaster1@msn.com]

I'm using regular house breakers, haven't tripped one yet so i'm not sure if they work yet but amps are amps.

[hygear]

Already been through this exercise, my ram has a 136 amp alternator. I'm not planning on using the whole 50 amps my fusing circuit is rated for.


My Dodge also has a 136 amp alt. and in my early testing stages my generator was drawing around 40 amps and on long trips with no problems.I don't think I would advise anyone pushing past that though.

[Riddler250]

Painless, at work we use breakers that are perfect for what you are wanting. they work instantly. im not sure right off hand where we get them, but i will look them up tonight when i go in and let you know.