new design... please advise

[kiki]

hi there,

i was thinking building the following unit on my jeep grand cherokee 5.9 v8

a cell with 31 plates. pltes size 65mm x 200mm. , 1mm thick
setup: +nnnnn-nnnn+nnnn-nnnn+nnnn-
plate spacing 1 mm.
wrap this cell in rescuetape

container is going to be 110 mm. tube, 25 cm long (2,5 litres)

a bubbler container on top (1 ltr). filled with 2/3 electrolyte. the output of the cell with a hose to the bottom of the bubbler. an other hose from the bottom of the bubbler to the bottom of the cell. (creates a flow which cools the system)

hose from this bubblertank to an extra bubbler (filled 1/3 water)

using Nao2


i tested the bubbler system with return hose, this works great! also 1 mm spacing ad the type of electrolyte works pretty good. wondering if i am on the right track, and hoping to get some comments/advise.

thanks,arjen

[EltonBrandd]

try spacing at 1.5mm

[smartHHO]

hi there,

i was thinking building the following unit on my jeep grand cherokee 5.9 v8

a cell with 31 plates. pltes size 65mm x 200mm. , 1mm thick
setup: +nnnnn-nnnn+nnnn-nnnn+nnnn-
plate spacing 1 mm.
wrap this cell in rescuetape

container is going to be 110 mm. tube, 25 cm long (2,5 litres)

a bubbler container on top (1 ltr). filled with 2/3 electrolyte. the output of the cell with a hose to the bottom of the bubbler. an other hose from the bottom of the bubbler to the bottom of the cell. (creates a flow which cools the system)

hose from this bubblertank to an extra bubbler (filled 1/3 water)

using Nao2


i tested the bubbler system with return hose, this works great! also 1 mm spacing ad the type of electrolyte works pretty good. wondering if i am on the right track, and hoping to get some comments/advise.

thanks,arjen

that is going to be one serious Parallel generator. Seems that you are going to be drawing a lot of current from it. Each leg of NNNNN's is going to have a small amount of current going back up to the +. You should have full 12 - 13.5 V across each set of NNNNN plates. Not sure how the heat is going to be, but in order to run it, you will be putting more current down, which I guess is better then doing solid series. You would need more voltage to make it work. In order to get good production, you would have to up the juice. I am almost thinking that your cell is way too much. By analyzing the smack cell, it puts out 10 amps to each NNNNN group. It has 13.5 V across each group also. When the system is running correctly, you are getting say 1.5 LPM at 135Watts. On your design, you have 5 cells in parallel. If you push just 5 amps across each cell for 25amp current draw at 13.5 Vdc, then you are pushing 337.5Watts in total. Smack booster at 20 amps, 2 parallel cells is only 270 watts. So, designs are great to experiment, but myself, I would be using a bit smaller design if I am just trying to achieve a gas milage improvement. Too much HHO is not going to do any better, and in reality, you are going to stress out your alternator more and be less effecient. Just my 2 cents. I say go for it. But see what your output is and then look at how much a smaller cell will put out vs a larger one, vs Wattage. Wattage is the key to keeping your cell cooler, even with wrapping it.

Good luck, and please don't take my information as a flame, but some basic electronics knowledge.

[kiki]

Thanks. i was thinking the same way. in fact the 5 cell design makes a kind of square block. when you wrap it into tape it exactly fits in the 11 cm (4 inch) tube.

i will just build this 5 cel unit, when i have current or heat issues (which can be expected indeed..) i can always reduce the number of cells...

i also made a prototype of the bubblertank with feedbackhose, which really works ok!, i think this is the best way to get rid of overheating problems. i will extend the hoses for a meter and fix those behind my grill, like a radiator.

i was also thinking to lose one neutral plate, (4 neutrals instead of 5) but i think this only creates extra heat (more then 2.2 volts per platespace)